FOOD Life Gives You Lemons by Trish Deseine I n the cold, dark days of early February, never have we needed a change of scene quite so much, nor craved sunshine, nor dreamt more of faraway shores. In my kitchen and on my plate, I am simply heading far South and far East to recharge and dream until the warmer days of spring arrive. My edible light therapy starts at my little local market in Bellême and in my favourite semi-chic supermarket, Grand Frais, where nature is kind enough to provide tonnes of sunny, citrus fruit just when we need it most. At the market there are the usual clementines and satsumas, eating and juicing oranges, limes, kumquats and grapefruit, which always come with the free-of-charge recipes and cheerful banter from stallholders. But its the more exciting supermarket, Grand Frais, where they pride themselves on stocking exotic fruit originating from all over the world and now grown in Southern Europe, where I can truly take a trip. Fresh yuzu are probably my most indulgent treat. They look like a cross between a clementine and a squat, knobbly lemon with a deep yellow colour and instantly transport me to Japan in my imagination, where I have not yet been in real life. Their zest is the most precious part of them, as their insides have large pips and a small amount of not very juicy flesh. I like to grate one onto grilled fish SHAKER LEMON TART Meyer Lemons have a flavour somewhere between lemon and sweet orange. Their incredibly aromatic skins are smooth and soft, making them a fragile item to ship, which is why their more robustly encased cousins have dominated up to now. This Shaker Tart requires macerating the lemons for up to 24 hours. Make sure the slices are sufficiently softened before baking. 24 February 2021 THE GLOSS MAGAZINE or seafood, or let the zest infuse in warmed cream for chocolate ganache. Finger limes, or caviar lemons, take me to Australia, preferably at a table overlooking the worlds most beautiful pool at Icebergs Restaurant, Bondi Beach, eating twicecooked suckling pig with artichoke and fennel. Resembling short, plump gherkins, they grow on low, thorny shrubs. Their flesh bursts out when they are opened into delicious, tight, citrus pearls, coloured from a delicate pink to the lightest yellow, which pop in your mouth and their zest is good too. I love them mixed into a light vinaigrette served with oysters, or topping some scallops fried or roasted in butter, with lots of good pepper. In true Aussie style, they also look and taste lovely mixed with mango and kiwi on top of a snowy pavlova. Cedrat, mostly grown in Morocco, is intriguing looking large, knobbly, ancient and challenging to use. Its zest is beautifully fragrant, making it a good candidate to replace lemons for limoncello (see my recipe on www.thegloss.ie), but IN MY LITTLE inside, it is mainly pith, with sometimes no flesh at all. Traditionally, sliced cedrat is LOCAL MARKET, candied but this is a laborious process to try WHERE NATURE at home, taking much time and more sugar. IS KIND ENOUGH I like to have a couple of these decorating my kitchen, next to pomegranates and quince, a TO PROVIDE promise of intoxicating Marrakech days. TONNES OF To my mind, bergamot lemons are perhaps SUNNY, CITRUS the most romantic and evocative of all citrus fruits, their distinctive, familiar notes FRUIT JUST present in perfume and Earl Grey tea. This WHEN WE NEED year is the first I will get my hands on the THE IT MOST. actual fruit, and Im planning to make Susan Hermann Loomis lovely (easy!) bergamot marmalade, sending myself to sunny Calabria as it gently simmers in my kitchen. I hope I have made you dream along with me on my future, sun-filled travels, rather than frustrate you with hard-to-find ingredients! Rest assured you can also use the citrus fruits readily available in our more northerly parts of the world. @TrishDeseine @trishdeseineencore For 6-8 1 nights maceration 1 hour cooling of the pastry 50 minutes baking 20 minutes preparation 2 Meyer (or normal) lemons 400g caster sugar 3 eggs 30g melted butter, cooled 100g cold butter, diced 50g icing sugar 175g plain flour 1 egg, lightly beaten 1. Slice the lemons very finely, using a mandolin if you have one and dare! Remove the pips, put the slices in a bowl and toss gently with the sugar. Cover with plastic film and leave overnight to macerate. 2. Put the flour, butter and icing sugar in a bowl and work quickly with your fingers to rub in the butter, until you have a mixture which looks like fine breadcrumbs. 3. Add the beaten egg and a little cold water if needed and press the pastry into a ball. Cover in plastic film and chill in the fridge for an hour or so. 4. Heat the oven to 180 C. Roll out the pastry and line a 22cm tart tin preferably with a removable base. Weigh the pastry down with pulses or baking beans on greaseproof paper and bake the base blind for 15 to 20 minutes, until the edges start to turn golden. Remove the weights and bake for a further 5 to 8 minutes, to dry out the base. 5. Remove the tart and reduce the oven temperature to 160 C. Whisk together the eggs and the melted butter, then mix in the lemon and sugar mixture, gently. 6. Pour into the pastry base and bake for 22-25 minutes, checking to make sure the filling is just set, still a little wobbly, before removing from the oven and leaving to cool. Serve with whipped cream, Greek yoghurt or crème fraiche. PEOPLE, PLACES AND THINGS / HAPPY WITH WHAT WE HAVE / FAR FROM THE MADDING CROWDS / TALKING POINTS MAGAZINE FEBRUARY 2021 with THE IRISH TIMES www.thegloss.ie DRESSING DOWN CHANGING THINGS UP BROWN THOMAS, GRAFTON STREET, DUBLIN 2 CONTENTS IN THIS ISSUE THE GLOSS MONTHLY REMINDER SIGN UP to receive a monthly reminder by email when THE GLOSS is out so that you never miss an issue. Simply register your details on WWW.THEGLOSS.IE. PU B LI S H E R JA N E M C D O N N E LL E D I TO R SA RA H M C D O NN E LL D E PU T Y E D I TO PEOPLE PLACES THINGS TWO UP LEAGUE CO U Gloss~ip February fashion, fiction and frivolity ES Y IV Frida Kahlo, Winston Churchill and Edith Warton all loved WFB (working from bed) à la Miss Monocle by Slim Aarons. RS MICHAEL KORS Upgrade lockdown learning with The Science of Well-Being Course Always set the right atmosphere. inductionAir Plus guarantees fresh air in your open kitchen and maximum flexibility for perfect hosting thanks to the combination of a modern induction hob with a powerful and integrated ventilation unit. siemens-home.bsh-group.com/ie The future moving in. BSH Grou PEOPLE PLACES THINGS A ATHFLOW The new fashion buzz word for 2021? Athflow. It's where athleisure meets elegance. Smart enough for a client Zoom meeting, stretchy enough for an online Pilates class. Think flowy pull-on trousers, ballet pumps and wrap-around cardis, oversized shirting, jumpsuits a H PEOPLE PLACES THINGS is for fashion hook-ups. Designer Niamh ONeill has collaborated with vegan chef and sustainability advocate, Holly White, to co-create a six-piece eco-responsible capsule collection. The duo's versatile dresses, wrap tops, a silk-satin slip skirt and a bias-cut silk blouse ar Oat-based milk chocolate, ice cream, cheese, yoghurt, and even double cream are coming our way this year, according to Baileys food futurologist Dr Morgaine Gaye and a cohort of global treat makers. Expect other (Instagrammable) trends such as luxurious savoury spreads. Champagne butter and sloe gin WORKING OUT PEOPLE PLACES THINGS Beaded belt; www.chanel.com. WAISTS Waists are the focus for SS21. Specifically belted, bejewelled waists. How to get yours in shape this year? Smart home gyms are really taking off. Consider mirror training. A tech-enabled magic mirror (above) turns into a fancy NEW DISCOVERY SPORT PLUG-IN HYBRID CHARGED FOR ADVENTURE NEVER STOP DISCOVERING You can now take the kids to their various adventures more efficiently with the New Discovery Sport Plug-in Hybrid. 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Call us today to book your design consultation Gaggenau authorised partner 46 Serpentine Avenue Ballsbridge Dublin 4 +353 1 660 4856 www.mcnallyliving.ie BOOKS Reading Notes by Orna Mulcahy E venings are long and diaries empty, so its a good time for vicarious thrill-seeking. Daisy Buchanans debut novel INSATIABLE, Sphere, €14.99, delivers, with its vivid reminders of a time when people worked in offices, mingled at parties and snogged each other DESIGN INTERIORS BESPOKE FURNITURE Creators of luxury homes Head Office/ Ballycoolin Showroom Units 12/13, Block 8 Blanchardstown Corporate Park Ballycoolin, Dublin 15 01 820 8480 Deansgrange Showroom Unit F, Deansgrange Business Park Kill Lane Blackrock, Co. Dublin 01 207 0702 +353 1 820 8480 JEWELLERY Paris Hilton's pear-cut 20ct diamond engagement ring. LOVE IS IN THE AIR In these months of uncertainty, diamonds last forever. 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