FOOD
Life
Gives
You
Lemons
by Trish Deseine
I
n the cold, dark days of early February, never have we needed a change of
scene quite so much, nor craved sunshine, nor dreamt more of faraway
shores. In my kitchen and on my plate, I am simply heading far South and
far East to recharge and dream until the warmer days of spring arrive.
My edible light therapy starts at my little local market in Bellême and
in my favourite semi-chic supermarket, Grand Frais, where nature is kind enough
to provide tonnes of sunny, citrus fruit just when we need it most. At the market
there are the usual clementines and satsumas, eating and juicing oranges, limes,
kumquats and grapefruit, which always come with the free-of-charge recipes and
cheerful banter from stallholders. But its the more exciting supermarket, Grand
Frais, where they pride themselves on stocking exotic fruit originating from all
over the world and now grown in Southern Europe, where I can truly take a trip.
Fresh yuzu are probably my most indulgent treat. They look like a cross between
a clementine and a squat, knobbly lemon with a deep yellow colour and instantly
transport me to Japan in my imagination, where I have not yet been in real life.
Their zest is the most precious part of them, as their insides have large pips
and a small amount of not very juicy flesh. I like to grate one onto grilled fish
SHAKER LEMON TART
Meyer Lemons have a flavour
somewhere between lemon and
sweet orange. Their incredibly
aromatic skins are smooth and
soft, making them a fragile
item to ship, which is why their
more robustly encased cousins
have dominated up to now. This
Shaker Tart requires macerating
the lemons for up to 24 hours.
Make sure the slices
are sufficiently softened
before baking.
24 February 2021 THE GLOSS MAGAZINE
or seafood, or let the zest infuse in warmed
cream for chocolate ganache.
Finger limes, or caviar lemons, take me to
Australia, preferably at a table overlooking
the worlds most beautiful pool at Icebergs
Restaurant, Bondi Beach, eating twicecooked suckling pig with artichoke and
fennel. Resembling short, plump gherkins,
they grow on low, thorny shrubs. Their
flesh bursts out when they are opened into
delicious, tight, citrus pearls, coloured
from a delicate pink to the lightest yellow,
which pop in your mouth and their zest
is good too. I love them mixed into a light
vinaigrette served with oysters, or topping
some scallops fried or roasted in butter, with
lots of good pepper. In true Aussie style,
they also look and taste lovely mixed with
mango and kiwi on top of a snowy pavlova.
Cedrat, mostly grown in Morocco,
is intriguing looking large, knobbly,
ancient and challenging to use. Its zest
is beautifully fragrant, making it a good
candidate to replace lemons for limoncello
(see my recipe on www.thegloss.ie), but
IN MY LITTLE
inside, it is mainly pith, with sometimes no
flesh at all. Traditionally, sliced cedrat is
LOCAL MARKET,
candied but this is a laborious process to try
WHERE NATURE
at home, taking much time and more sugar.
IS KIND ENOUGH
I like to have a couple of these decorating my
kitchen, next to pomegranates and quince, a
TO PROVIDE
promise of intoxicating Marrakech days.
TONNES OF
To my mind, bergamot lemons are perhaps
SUNNY, CITRUS
the most romantic and evocative of all
citrus fruits, their distinctive, familiar notes
FRUIT JUST
present in perfume and Earl Grey tea. This
WHEN WE NEED
year is the first I will get my hands on the
THE IT MOST.
actual fruit, and Im planning to make Susan
Hermann Loomis lovely (easy!) bergamot
marmalade, sending myself to sunny Calabria as it gently simmers in my kitchen.
I hope I have made you dream along with me on my future, sun-filled travels,
rather than frustrate you with hard-to-find ingredients! Rest assured you can also
use the citrus fruits readily available in our more northerly parts of the world.
@TrishDeseine @trishdeseineencore
For 6-8
1 nights maceration
1 hour cooling of the pastry
50 minutes baking
20 minutes preparation
2 Meyer (or normal) lemons
400g caster sugar 3 eggs
30g melted butter, cooled
100g cold butter, diced
50g icing sugar 175g plain
flour 1 egg, lightly beaten
1. Slice the lemons very finely,
using a mandolin if you have
one and dare! Remove the
pips, put the slices in a bowl
and toss gently with the sugar.
Cover with plastic film and
leave overnight to macerate.
2. Put the flour, butter and
icing sugar in a bowl and work
quickly with your fingers to
rub in the butter, until you
have a mixture which looks
like fine breadcrumbs.
3. Add the beaten egg and a
little cold water if needed and
press the pastry into a ball.
Cover in plastic film and chill
in the fridge for an hour or so.
4. Heat the oven to 180 C.
Roll out the pastry and line a
22cm tart tin preferably with
a removable base. Weigh the
pastry down with pulses or
baking beans on greaseproof
paper and bake the base blind
for 15 to 20 minutes, until the
edges start to turn golden.
Remove the weights and bake
for a further 5 to 8 minutes, to
dry out the base.
5. Remove the tart and reduce
the oven temperature to
160 C. Whisk together the
eggs and the melted butter,
then mix in the lemon and
sugar mixture, gently.
6. Pour into the pastry base
and bake for 22-25 minutes,
checking to make sure the
filling is just set, still a little
wobbly, before removing from
the oven and leaving to cool.
Serve with whipped cream,
Greek yoghurt or crème
fraiche.
PEOPLE, PLACES AND THINGS / HAPPY WITH WHAT WE HAVE / FAR FROM THE MADDING CROWDS / TALKING POINTS MAGAZINE FEBRUARY 2021 with THE IRISH TIMES www.thegloss.ie DRESSING DOWN CHANGING THINGS UP
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