INTERVIEW Fashion's most fabulous feminist Dont meet your heroes, they say. Nonsense!I would have loved to meet Maria Grazia Chiuri, first female creative director at the House of Dior, whose energy, attitude and astute evolution of a storied house has long intrigued me. An online interview was the next best thing ... INTERVIEW BY SARAH MC DONNELL I @MARIAGRAZIACHIURI feel good in my own skin. Im at peace with my body and my style is defined by the idea of a work uniform: jeans and a T-shirt. Maybe those are the things that make me somehow cool although I cant say that without laughing. Maria Grazia Chiuri herself is, she says, obsessed with uniforms. Because a uniform is something that helps you live your life. From the tips of her platinum blonde bob to the toes of her platform sneakers, her fingers crammed with chunky rings, a Dior Camp satchel bag slung across her body, Chiuri, 57, is cool. She always looks ready for work. Its that huge sense of purpose she exudes that makes her appear at once engaged and energetic, not rarefied but real, relatable. Creative director of womens Haute Couture, Ready To Wear and accessories collections for the House of Dior since July 2016, she is in her office in Paris. From her window, she says, she can see Paris and the sky and by her side is her daughter and muse Rachele Regini, and her design team. Rachele has a very personal view on young women and the challenges of modern life. Its interesting to take this journey with her at my side. I listen to her because she is the new generation, and because she doesnt say anything to please me. I need her real, honest opinion. It is impossible to work in fashion now if you dont try to understand the new world. The first woman to hold the creative reins at Dior since its foundation 70 years before, when she took up the position in 2016, Chiuri encouraged strong sorority at the house. Sisterhood is something thats part of my own background, and something I immediately brought into my work for Dior. It could not have been any other way. I needed to emphasise and reassert sisterhood and the community of women that supports and defines me. My mothers generation fought for equal opportunities, and I was a beneficiary, but I took it for granted. As if once you get them, you no longer need to talk about them. I was lucky, first with my family, and then working with five women at Fendi. Born in Rome in 1964, Chiuri was inspired by her mother, a dressmaker, and knew from an early age that she wanted to pursue a career in fashion. She studied at Istituto Europeo di Design in Rome where she trained in the technical side of fashion design while exploring the cultural and artistic heritage of the Italian capital. Art history and cinema have always informed her work, notably during a decade at Fendi, where she designed handbags, including the iconic Fendi baguette. She We Should All Be Feminists left Fendi in 1999 to join Valentino as head of accessories, before becoming joint creative director with T-shirt from Maria Grazia Chiuris debut collection for Pierpaolo Piccioli in 2008. In 2016, Dior was looking for someone with huge creative vision and they found Dior SS17. it in the open, intelligent Chiuri who has an ability to cross-pollinate fashion with the worlds of art, music, theatre, even sport (her SS17 collection inspired by the uniforms of fencing was widely acclaimed) and imbue it with a knowledge and spirit of history, without ever becoming bogged down in nostalgia, or being too classic. Chiuris first show for the house was SS17, and it caused a Dio(r)evolution. It was both an evolution fashionwise from Christian Dior himself via Yves Saint Laurent, Marc Bohan, Gianfranco Ferré, John Galliano, Raf Simons to Chiuri herself and a revolution in terms of communicating a clear message about equal opportunities for women. Via messages on T-shirts, from We should all be feminists to Sisterhood is powerful, she underlined the simple, straightforward values central to feminism and ignited a new wave of activism among a young and fashionable audience. She lost no time before taking the lead internally at Dior to encourage the values she expressed on the runway. I am not interested in the old stereotypes, of what a feminist looks like or doesnt look like, she says. I dont think there is one way to be a feminist. Feminism for me is about equal opportunities. If I am going to stand for something, I would like to stand for this idea: that if you are a woman you can have these opportunities in life. Women @Dior was launched in 2017 to coach thousands of young businesswomen, engineers and creatives, selected from schools and universities in 25 countries, to acquire the self-confidence to shape professional careers. In 2019, Chiuri was awarded the Chevalier de lOrdre National de la Legion dHonneur by Frances Secretary of State for Gender Equality, Marlene Schiappa. I ask if she feels hopeful, and if progress has been made, in relation to gender equality. Its never enough and there is always a little more to be done. That is the spirit I want to bring to the challenge, from inside Maria Grazia Chiuri with her daughter Rachele Regini. the extraordinary House of Dior. 36 November 2021 THE GLOSS MAGAZINE GET KNOTTED: SILK SCARVES / SMALL PLATES & YOUNG WINES / OUTDOOR THERAPY FOR GOOD MENTAL HEALTH / GLOSSY GETAWAYS MAGAZINE NOVEMBER 2021 with THE IRISH TIMES SHOW JUMPERS ww w. the glo ss. ie IRISH KNITWEAR IS BEST IN CLASS TRENDS TRACTOR CHIC MODERN LAND GIRL LOOKS + GO OUT, OUT! THE CONTENTS ýý IN THIS ISSUE THE GLOSS MONTHLY REMINDER SIGN UP to receive a monthly reminder by email when THE GLOSS is out so that you never miss an issue. Simply register your details on WWW.THEGLOSS.IE. SHOW JUMPERS Irish knitwear designers are in the spotlight PU B LI S H E R JA N E M C D O PEOPLE PLACES THINGS I f our sartorial set point has changed in the last 18 months, nothing makes us feel more new season now than a new trouser silhouette. Are you doing the Dreed yet? The fashion pack are on first name terms with the Zara jeans which are the shape of the moment: high-waisted, an THE MOST EXTRAORDINARY GIFTS IN THE WORLD NOW OPEN Brown Thomas Dublin and brownthomas.com #THEMARVELROOM SMALL WORLD BIJOU BIJOUX Hand-painted porcelain leopard necklace by Toulouse sisters Nach Bijoux, 175. Toucan hoop earrings in gold-plated brass and porcelain, 78. Nach Bijoux mini robin triangle earrings on goldplated brass, 66. Browse a selection at Costume, 10/11 Castle Market, Dublin 2. SMALL STYLE. UNWRAPPED. HOLIDAY 2021 COLLECTION Unwrap this seasons biggest secret: an infatuating collection designed for the ultimate NARSissist. 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PEOPLE PLACES THINGS 1 Spot The Trend 2 Aislinn Coffey loves a modern Land Girl look BARBOUR X ALEXACHUNG 3 4 5 6 7 8 TRACTOR CHIC Roaming-the-countryside style is back and this time, tractor chic should not be confined to your outdoor wardrobe. Designed for both country and city, this loo FASHION Shopping Pamela crystal pavé earrings, Marina Fossati, 150; www. costumedublin.ie. Freyah crystal shoes, 370; www.emmahyacinth.com. Nancy chainmail bag, 79; www.hush-uk.com. DOROTHEE SCHUMACHER The allure of jeans and the going-out top is back, says Aislinn Coffey Blue Candy denim shi 12 donnybrook road dublin 4 www.electra.ie FASHION Shopping Gold-tone earrings with coloured stones, 29; www.stories.com. Multicoloured metallic bag; www.chanel.com. Fashions favourite colour is green, says Aislinn Coffey Emerald Kihna Everynight blazer, 970; www.blaze-milano.com. Green velvet jacket with frill collar, 199; www.uterque. AUCTION OF FINE JEWELLERY & WATCHES Tuesday 7th December at 6pm An Early 20th Century Diamond Necklace, circa 1910 Estimate €8,000 - 12,000 Online Catalogue available Saturday 13th November www.adams.ie 26 St. Stephens Green,Dublin 2, Ireland Tel: +353 (0)1 6760261 PRSA REGISTRATION NO. #001959 PERRY OGDEN FASHION Cream Monet cashmere sweater, Khaite, 5,380; www.net-a-porter.com. Natural Aran hand-knit unisex sweater, 480; www.stableofireland.com. show jumpers While international fashion brands are busy appropriating our Aran sweater traditions, knitwear designed and made in Ireland i FASHION Ecru Fionn Aran organic wool cardigan jacket, £450stg; www.and-daughter.com. Cliffs Of Moher cream Aran sweater; www.katieannmcguigan.com. 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STOCKING FILLERS Lovely presents dont have to cost the earth. Some of the sweetest gifts include the LOCCITANE Festive Baubles at €14, which feature a trio of travel-s INTERVIEW Fashion's most fabulous feminist Dont meet your heroes, they say. Nonsense!I would have loved to meet Maria Grazia Chiuri, first female creative director at the House of Dior, whose energy, attitude and astute evolution of a storied house has long intrigued me. An online interview was the VICTOR VIRGILE INTERVIEW xxxxxx xxxxxxx Maria Grazia Chiuri walks the runway at the end of the Dior Haute Couture AW21 show in Paris, July 2021. I FEEL GOOD IN MY OWN SKIN. IM AT PEACE WITH MY BODY AND MY STYLE IS DEFINED BY THE IDEA OF A WORK UNIFORM: JEANS AND A T-SHIRT. THE GLOSS MAGAZINE N SARAH PIANTADOSI FREDERIQUE DUMOULIN INTERVIEW The Dior SS22 show was a riot of colour and paid homage to Marc Bohan, designer at Dior during the 1960s. LUDWIG BONNET-JAVA Dior AW21 38 November 2021 THE GLOSS MAGAZINE The Dior SS17 show referenced the uniforms of fencing. FREDERIQUE DUMOUL MYRTO PAPADOPOULOS INTERVIEW RIA MORT IM ALWAYS LOOKING AHEAD. BECAUSE ITS IMPORTANT TO LIVE TODAY IN A WAY THAT LOOKS TO THE FUTURE WITH THE RIGHT ATTITUDE. ELISE TOIDÉ ALESSANDRO GAROFALO ABOVE The Dior Cruise 2022 finale, Athens. BELOW The Dior Cruise 2021 show was held in Lecce in Puglia, TA I LO R E D TO F I T head to toe, inside & out bespoke hand crafted living FOR EVERY ROOM OCONNORSOFDRUMLECK.IE SHOWROOM BY APPOINTMENT D RUMLEC K, C AST LEB ELLIN G H AM, C O LOUT H T: 04 2 937 2 6 2 5 IN FO@OC ON N ORS OF D RUMLEC K.IE ESSAY The Remembering Rope Animalia Polly Devlins obsession with collecting even extended to flocks of fancy farm animals O nce upon a time I drove down the deep Reds, familiars around the house in Ireland. 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As the citys newest hotel, its design-led compact rooms with a Scandi FOOD Small Plates Too nervous or knackered to host a dinner? Ask a few friends around for a drink and think small, says Trish Deseine L possible. But the theme was British and, seen ife is still too short to stuff a through the French food cliché filter, there had to be mushroom unless, in my BSH Group is a Trademark Licensee of Siemens AG. studioLine. Sophisticated design meets cutting-edge technology. Book an appointment to visit the Home of Innovation showroom in Dublin to view our extensive range of Siemens home appliances. siemens-home.bsh-group.com/ie/ Siemens Home Appliances Te WINE Young Love Julie Dupouy has fallen for Beaujolais again. And not just the Nouveau variety A from silky to chewy, from early drinking to age-worthy wines, the winemakers s Halloween passes and the starter gun fires for the race to of the Beaujolais are now expressing their terroir at a level Our masterpieces, require a master. 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We incorporate a feedback-informed approach; its important to hear from the person themselves how the sessions THINKING ABOUT WINTER TREATS Insecurities The daily anxieties of modern life ILLUSTRATION BY BECKY DONNELY WITH BUTLERS SOCIAL ADVENT CALENDAR Count down to Christmas with Butlers Advent Calendar. Enjoy 24 delicious chocolates, one day at a time. THE EVENING CLASS DILEMMA 1 WINTER DRINKS ADVERTORIAL lets not suffer in silence Theres nothing inevitable about suffering symptoms to the vaginal area post-menopause. Localised hormone treatment is an effective solution for many women. Menopause expert Dr Rita Galimberti explains ... A lthough menopause is now talked about more openly INTERIORS My World at HOME Maja Larsson and her Irish husband Declan Clarke live simply and with little impact on the environment in a tiny house in Småland in Sweden with their two daughters. Their philosophy is to reduce, reuse and recycle, fully embracing the joy of Small ... PHOTOGRAPHY BY MAJ INTERIORS Majas self-portrait WERE TRYING TO LIVE LIFE SIMPLY AND WITH LITTLE IMPACT ON THE ENVIRONMENT, BY WORKING LESS, SPENDING LESS MONEY AND BEING HOME MORE. The range When the lettuce and spinach is harvested and the seedlings are moved outside, we plant the tomatoes, cucumbers and peppers. The sitting room in New York of Charlotte Moss editor of Home: A Celebration, Notable Voices Reflect on the meaning of Home, Rizzoli. Moss says of her library of books and fashion photography, Our collections define us; they ground us; they make our homes what they are. SIMON WATSON HOME WHERE MY HOME WHERE THE HENS ARE ... By Clodagh McKenna, food writer Nice Lemons (lemons Niçoise), oil on canvas, by Blaise Smith. WHERE THE ART IS ... By Blaise Smith RHA, artist My home is full of art, or more accurately things that are ready to be transformed into art. When I wander into the kitchen f DOREEN KILFEATHER HOME Lord and Lady Ardee. WHERE THE DOGS ARE ... WHERE THE FARM IS ... By Minnie Peters, interior designer By Fionnuala Aston-Ardee, Lady Ardee There is nothing nicer after a long day at the office when I open my gates and see my four rescue dogs barking excitedly at the win INVESTMENT CLUB Still Time To Join THE GLOSS x Goodbody FUNDS NIGHT IN INVESTMENT CLUB TO JOIN... Go to www.thegloss.ie/ goodbodyinvestmentclub THE GLOSS X Goodbody Investment Club continues with the next event on November 10 WHAT HAPPENS NEXT? Once you sign up you will receive an email with a BOOKS Reading Notes WHATS ON MY BEDSIDE TABLE Matt Cooper, broadcaster and journalist Lockdown literature, a models memoir and the magic of island life: Orna Mulcahy recommends ... S arah Hall perfectly captures the fear and horror of an unstoppable virus in BURNTCOAT (Faber & Faber,15.28), a m BOOKS WritersBlock by Lara Marlowe L ara Marlowe is a leading journalist on French politics and life, writing as France correspondent for The Irish Times where she has also worked as US Correspondent. Previously, the California-born writer spent 15 years as a journalist with TIME magazine, rising THE IRISH TIMES Home Delivery Service A newspaper delivered to your door first thing each morning. Theres no delivery charge and home delivery customers can avail of a range of great benefits. T: 01 675 8894 E: info@newsdelivery.ie W: www.newsdelivery.ie THIS GLOSSY LIFE Sex, scandal and fabulous clothes were all part of the appeal of Halston, a recent Netflix miniseries on the life of designer Roy Halston Frowick starring Ewan McGregor in the title role. Costume Drama The interrelationship between fashion and film makes for compulsive viewing sa THIS GLOSSY LIFE . lfe in Belfast Caitríona Ba Balfe w ith Jam ie Dornan in Belfa st. FILM GLOSSIP Breaking Out, winner of the George Morrison Feature Documentary Award at the 2021 Irish Film & Television Academy Awards and Best Irish Documentary at the Galway Film Fleadh 2019, will be release THIS GLOSSY LIFE Passing stars Ruth Negga and Alexander Skarsgard. l Hayley Atwel in Brideshead Revisited. Chloe Sevigny in Love and Friendship. Anne H athawa y in Becom ing Jan e. EIMER Nĺ MHAOLDOMHNAIGH Knowing how to deal with people on set, especially actors and directors is an important sk THIS GLOSSY LIFE Inis Méain profiled actors Patrick Dempsey and Marty Rea in recent knitwear campaigns photographed by Matthew Thompson; www.inismeain.ie. FILM GLOSSIP If youre unfamiliar with Foundation, the sci-fi series and Apple TV production based on Isaac Asimovs seven books of the same name DESIGN INTERIORS BESPOKE FURNITURE Creators of luxury homes Head Office/ Ballycoolin Showroom Units 12/13, Block 8 Blanchardstown Corporate Park Ballycoolin, Dublin 15 01 820 8480 Deansgrange Showroom Unit F, Deansgrange Business Park Kill Lane Blackrock, Co. Dublin 01 207 0702 +353 1 820 8480