TRAVEL
DANIEL SCHAEFER
Travel
Notes
BE CREATIVE, MENORCA
Tim Magee thinks small on the island of Menorca
Hauser & Wirth Menorca on Isla del Rey.
Es Cala Blanc
Hauser & Wirth Menorca on Isla del Rey.
50 November 2021 THE GLOSS MAGAZINE
with bocadillos the size of your head across Spain.
And thats just short haul.
Although the Balearics seemed to be the definition
of sun holidays where I grew up (Santa Ponsa to be
said with a strong Limerick accent, and a town that
could have been twinned with Kilkee) Menorca was
tricky to reach until recently, when Ryanair added a
flight to Mahón to the roster. Ive been trying it.
Flanking one of the largest natural ports in the
world, Mahón was, like many places, created by the
Royal Navy, the heavily armed internet that held the
largest empire ever seen together. In my hotel room
was a map of Menorcas winds which, unlike the
British, or the Romans, the Greeks or the French,
still rule the island. Menorcans dont need to check
the sun much but will always note if the Tramontana
or Migjorn are blowing before heading to the beach.
Which way the wind blew in the past meant
changing the owners of Port Mahóns batteries, the
teeth in the jaws of this spectacular setting for so
long and whose guns wouldve been the arrivals and
departures boards of their day. The guns are long
silenced and the town is quiet, bar the manic lunch
rush around the brilliant indoor food market, but
sails still decorate the water between the two shores,
from regattas to flotillas of learner sailors at their
lessons, small ornate one-hander fishing boats to the
occasional giant yacht.
THE BEST THING A PLACE
LIKE THIS CAN DO IS MAKE
YOU NOT WANT TO LEAVE.
DANIEL SCHAEFER
T
onis, beside the great empty military
square in Es Castell near Menorcas
capital Mahón, is another of Latin
Europes legions of zinc-gilded gems.
Each morning, every outside table
is taken before 10am with locals drinking coffee
and local beer. The atmosphere inside is a Catalan
Cheers and phones are generally holstered, certainly
not on the table.
Getting an hour alone early to walk foreign streets
and start the day with old men and short coffees,
regardless of what comes next, is one of those things
that I once considered a between-travel bonus but
now realise might actually be my destination. The
first coffee of the day is a sacrament. I care less about
what comes after but a bad first move and the day
will be arse over kettle before it begins so a coffee
corrective in advance. You yoga. I coffee.
So I sit early morning like a crap spy, with a
newspaper that may as well be upside down for all
that I tend to understand in it, outside cafés, markets,
stations and kiosks, perched between older strangers
flooring espressos, bicas, pingados, cafés aux lait,
crème, solos, cortados, con leche. Or patiently
waiting further east for the Greek and Turkish slow
boils with their sandy bottoms and cardamom noses,
or even just nodding fair play to ye at the ice-cream
sandwiches at dawn in Palermo or the breakfast beer
Hauser & Wirth Menorca on Isla del Rey.
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TRAVEL DANIEL SCHAEFER Travel Notes BE CREATIVE, MENORCA Tim Magee thinks small on the island of Menorca Hauser & Wirth Menorca on Isla del Rey. Es Cala Blanc Hauser & Wirth Menorca on Isla del Rey. 50 November 2021 THE GLOSS MAGAZINE with bocadillos the size of your head across Spain. And
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DANIEL SCHAEFER DANIEL SCHAEFER TRAVEL DANIEL SCHAEFER The Cristine Bedfor Hotel. The Cristine Bedfor Hotel. DANIEL SCHAEFER Boat traffic still sails by Illa del Rei, where the 18th-century naval hospital is now home to the latest, ambitious and gorgeous outpost from megagallerists Hauser & W
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