BOOKS Spies Like Us A book by Nathalia Holt reveals the untold stories of women in the CIA, including Liz Sudmeier I n the dark, Liz Sudmeier could be anyone. She could be a bored housewife looking for an afternoon of amusement at the movies. With flat shoes, a calf-skimming skirt, and no make-up, she could pass for a teenager, the daughter of a diplomat, killing time after school. In her favourite dress and with a date on her arm, she could be a secretary enjoying a night out. With a hijab framing her dark hair and eyes, she blended in perfectly. There were no limits to her camouflaging skills. On this particular afternoon in Baghdad, Iraq, in 1952, Liz let the dark cinema enfold her in its shadowy secrecy. The film flickered in front of her, with the actors speaking rapidly in Arabic. One couldnt help but admire the grand and beautiful movie theatre, with its large, curved doors and detailed mural paintings adorning the walls. It was a place where a person could spend hours comfortably curled up on the soft velvet seat. Liz let her hand run across the plush fabric until she reached the base of the seat. She pushed her fingers between the cushion and the frame. She kept her movements smooth and easy, careful not to attract notice. When she removed her hand, an envelope came out with it. She slipped it into her purse. She stayed only a minute more and then got up, her head ducked down as she left the darkness behind. She had just stolen Soviet secrets. Emerging from the theatre she slipped into the bustling crowds of the Baghdad neighbourhood. The streets were lined with bookshops, cafés, museums, and nightclubs. Tourists strolled the boulevards, often remarking on how the city reminded them of New York, Paris, and other sophisticated capitals. The streets were diverse, with Turkish, Armenian, Indian, Afghan, and Egyptian populations living alongside a robust Jewish community, and westerners were everywhere. The architecture and culture, however, were like no other place Liz had ever seen. Liz walked leisurely through the area, her pace matching that of the western tourists around her. Above them, the sound of lively conversation hummed, and the outdoor balcony restaurants were packed with customers leaning over the ornate iron railings. The exotic smell of Persian cardamom tea, brewed strong and served sweet, wafted down the thick columns that lined the avenues. They were nearing the royal palace, sitting right on the bank of the Tigris. As the tourists stopped to admire the grand beauty of the structure, Liz turned left and then slipped into what appeared like any other shop in the area. Except it wasnt. Liz had unobtrusively entered the CIA station in Baghdad, whose precise location was a closely protected secret. She was careful to enter the premises only when she was certain that no one had followed her. She cut switchbacks through the streets, using the crowded cover of tourists to ensure that no one was on her tail. It was critical that the station be shielded from curiosity and that her own cover and that of her spies were equally protected. Once inside the station, Liz began copying and then transmitting to Washington the top-secret documents she had just stolen. She was 36 years old, and although she had obtained none of the standard milestones laid out for women in the 1950s, such as a family, a house, and a career that did not involve risking her life, she was exactly where she wanted to be. Liz had a different background than most of her male colleagues. She was born and raised on a reservation in South Dakota, had served in the military during WWII, and then joined the CIA where she worked as a secretary before clawing her way into 54 March 2023 THE GLOSS MAGAZINE officer training in 1950. She spent her first year with the agency in Syria, learning the ins and outs of espionage in the field. It had been as much an assessment as it had been training. The officers noted how quickly Liz caught on to the subtleties of their intelligence operations, her understanding of Arabic, and her ability to write reports. She got along well with her colleagues, finding easy camaraderie in the CIA station in Damascus. Before leaving for Baghdad, the group gathered around and toasted the newly minted officer. Liz wanted, more than anything, to perform well in this field assignment in Iraq. Back in the States, the talk about women in the field was not complimentary. Women cant blend into their surroundings was one argument overheard in officer training. Theyll stick out like a sore thumb. How will they recruit their own agents? asked another officer. No man will want to report to them. Similar arguments were used to exclude people of colour. The CIA was expanding its presence across the globe, more than doubling the number of overseas officers from 2,783 to 7,014 in the first six months of 1950. Yet administrators failed to consider how diversifying its force of officers would benefit their operations. Fewer than 20 black officers worked at the agency altogether. Similar to their female counterparts, their contributions were often minimised, their worth in the field outweighed by racist recruitment policies. Yet despite the prejudices, Liz possessed advantages in the Middle East that her male colleagues did not. When she opened her closet door, she saw a neat row of tailored dresses. Each one was symbolic of the spy network that she had built. Liz had entered the womens dress shop in Baghdad pretending to be a housewife, and quickly made friends. She chatted about husbands, brothers, and sons, and although her conversation appeared casual to her new acquaintances, she was listening to their replies with rapt attention. When she learned that one womans husband was an engineer who worked for the Soviets, she turned on the charm, purposefully increasing their intimacy. Then, at great personal risk, she approached the man and convinced him to turn on his employers, betray their secrets, and work for the Americans. Few CIA officers had the kind of success in espionage that Liz earned. Her spy network, which kept expanding, delivered top secret blueprints for Soviet fighter jets, as well as a slew of other Soviet weaponry. Lizs value in Iraq escalated in 1958 when a military coup executed the Hashemite dynasty and seized control of the country. Immediately, westerners were being targeted and killed in the region and the CIA station evacuated. The lone CIA officer to stay behind was Liz Sudmeier. While her colleagues fled, Liz remained undercover to protect their spies in the country. At great personal risk, Liz gathered intelligence and transmitted it to Washington, ultimately preventing war in the region. Because of her bravery, Arthur Callahan, Lizs station chief in Baghdad, nominated her for the prestigious Intelligence Medal of Merit award. Administrators in Washington were aghast. They immediately denied the request, insisting that no woman had ever been given the award previously. It took four years for Liz to finally receive the high honour from the intelligence community. When she finally did so, in a simple ceremony, she held the bronze medallion in her hands for only a few minutes before it was returned to its vault within CIA headquarters. CIA officers did not get to keep their awards at home, the risk of discovery was far too great, and Liz knew that the next time her medal saw the light of day would be after her death. Like so many other women of the CIA, Liz served her country as an intelligence officer because she believed the work they were doing was essential to saving lives. Her career, and that of her colleagues, collectively known as the Wise Gals, offers proof that a diverse pool of intelligence officers is essential in protecting national security. During a time of extreme jeopardy, when the Cold War was poised to ignite, the Wise Gals were able to wield intelligence as a weapon for peace. Their careers hold a critical lesson for today, when once again, the world is entrenched in escalating conflict with Russia, and the actions of those in intelligence, invisible and unnoticed, may be essential in preventing world war. Wise Gals: The Spies Who Built the CIA and Changed the Future of Espionage by Nathalia Holt (Icon books, €28) is out now. FASHIONS PRICE SPIKES / CHARDONNAY IS COOL AGAIN / HEAVENLY DAY SPAS / DINING OUT ON A BUDGET / MATCH-READY MENSWEAR MAGAZINE MARCH 2023 with THE IRISH TIMES ww w ss.ie eglo .th THE FASHION ISSUE NEW MINIMALISM + fab styling tips and tricks CONTENTS IN THIS ISSUE 6 THE GLOSS MONTHLY REMINDER SIGN UP to receive a monthly reminder by email when THE GLOSS is out so that you never miss an issue. Simply register your details on WWW.THEGLOSS.IE. Cream wool mix blazer, 490; matching sleeveless dress, 290; both Day Birger et Mikkelsen, at Gloss~ip! JIL SANDER GLOSSIP TWO UP Spring sunshine Were on the move in March OSCARS A TIP FOR CHELTENHAM? At Jil Sander SS23, models wore wellies with dresses. Saves heels sinking into the mud. CRUISE COLLECTIONS: Were taking to the seas this month: All Aboard, page 44. From: Alaïa Afore Al FASHION 2 3 Spot The Trend Move over athleisure, balletcore is trending, says Aislinn Coffey 1 INTERIOR 4 5 8 7 9 IMAXTREE 6 BALLETCORE Springs balletcore trend prioritises pretty, comfortable clothing that allows the wearer to move with the ease and elegance of a dancer. Soft colours wit Your art collection will get jealous. The difference is Gaggenau. Grand architecture demands grand interior pieces. Your wine climate cabinet, much like your collection, speaks to who you are. Every Gaggenau piece is distinctively designed and crafted from exceptional materials to offer professiona 3 FASHION FASHION Disco Bags û BARE SHOULDERS Asymmetric tops and necklines look best when tucked in or belted and worn with hair up. To ensure a streamlined look, wear with a Skims Fits Everybody bandeau bra. This years iteration of the trend is less Flashdance casual and much more elevated, tho FASHION FASHION IMAXTREE LOUIS VUITTON 9 IMAXTREE SHOULDER-SKIMMING EARRINGS Chandelier earrings flatter jawlines and add sparkle to eyes. Dont save for red carpet appearances, or conceal behind hair. Wear with confidence and with practically anything. REJINA PYO 8 JACQUEMUS Capri Pants Le I-PACE Official fuel consumption figures for the I-PACE 24MY Combined Electric Consumption kWh/100km 22.0-25.2 (TEL-TEH). Combined Driving Range km- 470-408. Charging Time (AC 7kW 0-100%) 12.75 hours. Time based on using a 7kW AC home charger. The figures provided are as a result of official manufa IMAXTREE FASHION !ø Cargo Pants !6 For models like Kendall Jenner, 20 denier tights, worn with a black body or belted blazer, are the new trousers. More wearable are sheer or fishnets tights worn under trousers with ballet flats or sandals, as seen at Dior, Versace and Tove. TOVE !5 For casual Official Fuel Consumption Figures for the 24MY Velar in mpg (I/100km): Combined 11.9 l/100km 2.3 l/100km. CO2 emissions 233g/km-49g/km. The figures provided are as a result of official manufacturers tests in accordance with EU legislation. For comparison purposes only. Real world figures may differ ADVERTORIAL THE NEW HANDBAGS Smart structured shapes feature at Fendi, Givenchy and Jil Sander, where the top-handle bag is key. The classic tote is reworked and updated with spring stripes in canvas and crochet. Look for romantic floral bags at Ganni, Coperni and Loewe. The minimalist bag trend a THE TRENDS YOU NEED TO SPRING FORWARD ADVERTORIAL Brown Thomas SS23 collections, hot off the international runways, are some of the most beautiful yet. Fashion Buying Director Shelly Corkery explains ... t a spectacular show in a penthouse in Dublins Docklands recently, Brown Thomas officially lau ADVERTORIAL White dress, 1,490; green dress, 990; both Victoria Beckham. ADVERTORIAL White floral dress, Erdem, 1,845. Cobalt blue jacket, 2,790; matching trousers, 990; both Alexander McQueen. Sleek tailoring figures in sorbet colours in many collections, says Shelly, most notably at Dries Van Noten, where classic tailored jackets and coats are matched with ruffled sk HELEN CODY FASHION Parisian Pop-Up Designer Helen Cody is taking her couture collection to Paris for a twoweek pop-up exhibition in a gallery in the historic Jardin du Palais Royal, just a short walk from the Louvre, from April 17-30. Visitors will be able to see and buy one-off pieces, or commiss The possibilities are endless Inject fresh energy into your wardrobe with stand-out staples, new-in accessories and springs must-have handbags at Kildare Village. Do we even need to mention the unmissable savings? Your next adventure is closer than you think... Kildare Village 2023 02/23 FASHION MANGO Sneaker Love This seasons favourite fashion sneakers? Retro minimalist kicks (#retrocore) are back with a bang. The best ones to shop now are Adidas Samba or Gazelle 85s, 130; www.adidas.ie. Mangos off-white leather and suede panel sneakers are also worth checking out, 59.99; www.man NEW ARRIVALS Newbridge - Athgarvan Road Blanchardstown - Shopping Centre Tallaght - The Square SC Limerick - The Crescent SC Dublin - Arnotts Kilkenny - High Street Cork - Mahon Point IMAXTREE BEAUTY Cherry lips Cherry and berry-toned lipstick is no longer just for nighttime worn with fresh skin and pared-back eye make-up, as shown here by Rixo, it looks modern, casual, relaxed. Try a lip tint that blends care with shine: Fresh Sugar Lip Treatment, 24.95, at SpaceNK. fresh-f Elegance is an attitude Jennifer Lawrence THE LONGINES MASTER COLLECTION ADVERTORIAL SHOP THE SEASON AT DUNDRUM TOWN CENTRE New shapes, new colours, new energy ... its time to think about lighter, brighter spring/summer fashion. At Dundrum Town Centre, you can shop it all, from designer labels to high street favourites LK BENNETT Lourdes floral dress, €529, at LK BENN ADVERTORIAL Washed silk shirtdress, Eileen Fisher, €405, at HARVEY NICHOLS. Brandy celadon blouse, Day Birger et Mikkelsen, €230, at HARVEY NICHOLS. Madeline handembellished floral dress, €197, at FOLKSTER. Gold Robyn dress, €295, at FOLKSTER. FOLKSTER Folkster does it again this season, bringi MENS STYLE Menswear Notes STYLE CV 1 BRUNELLO CUCCINELLI What to wear to the match and beyond ... THE BEST INVESTMENT PIECE I OWN is a blue handwoven tweed jacket by Magee 1866. WHAT DO I WEAR ON AND OFF-DUTY? If Im on 2 an expedition, my clothing is technical and chosen to combat the extrem BSH Group is a Trademark Licensee of Siemens AG. Simply beautiful. Beautifully simple Siemens inductionAir redefines the way you cook by combining innovative hob technology with integrated worktop ventilation. The new technology of the intelligent flexZones with blue dual lightSlider gives the flex FASHION m ules or mortgage? As interest rates soar, and inflation skyrockets, your luxury investment might be downgraded to something more modest. On the flip side, your usual payday pick-me-up could end up costing you hundreds. This increasingly familiar phenomenon poses a prickly question: Why c FASHION A LITRE OF MILK? INCHING UP. A PAIR OF THIS SEASONS LEATHER BIKER BOOTS? THEYLL CERTAINLY HAVE YOU FEELING THE PINCH. theres a question mark over brands who are switching to viscose, often touted as more sustainable than cotton or polyester. The reality is you could pay in the region of €3 MOODBOARD 5 March Mood Nonchalant 6 1. IM GETTING shellacked in Nailberrys LOxygéné breathable nail varnish in Silver Lining.www.nailberry.co.uk. 2. IM CATCHING up on bedtime by Susan Zelouf reading in the glow of Space Copenhagens stone blue Como lamp, portable and rechargeable, designed for Est.1887 ADAMS Ire la nd s Pre mie r Jewel le ry Auct ionee rs Auction Tuesday 16th May 2023 FINE JEWELLERY & WATCHES An Irish Connection to An International Market Invitation to consign A Lapis Lazuli Alhambra Necklace, by Van Cleef & Arpels, circa 1980 Price realised €30,000 A Rare Sapphire TA I LO R E D TO F I T head to toe, inside & out bespoke hand crafted living FOR EVERY ROOM OCONNORSOFDRUMLECK.IE SHOWROOM BY APPOINTMENT D RUMLEC K, C AST LEB ELLIN G H AM, C O LOUT H T: 04 2 937 2 6 2 5 IN FO@OC ON N ORS OF D RUMLEC K.IE WINE TEXTURAL TACTICS Pale blue structured sleeveless top, CECILIE BAHNSEN, 1,350, at Brown Thomas. Natural white Baldwin trousers, STYLEIN, 285; www.ecrustudios.com. 37 January 2023 THE GLOSS MAGAZINE WINE THE NEW MINIMALISM This season's cool, well-cut clothes with minimal details look good against the rich backdrop of historic Russborough House Cream wool blazer with statement button, ROKSANDA, 1,750, at Brown Thomas. Black blouse, HACHE, 369, at Emporium Kalu, Naas, Co Kildare. Black Sbiru w WINE Vanessa wears: Pink blazer, Stella McCartney, 1,090; floral shirt, Dries Van Noten, 575; lilac skirt, JOSEPH, 425; all at Brown Thomas. Black loafers, 119, at & OTHER STORIES, 26-27 Grafton Street, Dublin 2. Gold earrings, THOMAS SABO, 169, at Weir & Sons, as before. Sheila wears: Lemon coat, S WINE MINT CONDITION Sheila wears: Greige double-breasted blazer, 179; WWW.ARKET.COM. Mint green pleated drop-waist faux leather dress, PROENZA SCHOULER White Label, 685; www.zalando.ie. Gold-tone chandelier drop earrings, JORGE MORALES, 120; www.ecrustudios.com. Vanessa wears: Tusk Claudia silk b WINE Beige trench coat, SANDRO, 299, at Kildare Village, Co Kildare, as before. Cream cocoon top, 25.95; matching midi asymmetric skirt, 29.95; both at ZARA, Dundrum Town Centre, Dublin 16. Ivory mock-croc bag, MAJE, 159, at Kildare Village. Beige patent leather shoes, TELA, 360, at Beautiful South WINE BLITHE SPIRIT Copper silk-georgette jumpsuit with cord lacing detail, 3,710; natural Arcon canvas and leather bag, 4,340; gold-tone Halo leather bracelet, 1,080; gold-tone Charniere leather earrings, 540; gold-tone Halo leather choker necklace, 1,350; mini Clic Chaine dAncre enamel bracelet, WINE THE RIGHT NOTE Grey wool blazer, 150, at COS, 6-8 Wicklow Street, Dublin 2. Grey ribbed merino wool polo sweater, IRIS & INK, 185; www.theoutnet. com. Pink floral appliqué linen midi skirt, ZIMMERMANN, 1,150, at Brown Thomas. Silver and gold-tone earrings, JORGE MORALES, 100; www.ecrustudios. WINE Vanessa wears: Black floral appliqué cotton shirt, PASKAL, 338; www.zalando.ie. Black straight-leg trousers, 89.95; black leather belt, 59.95; both at MASSIMO DUTTI, Dundrum Town Centre, Dublin 16. Black leather loafers, 119, at & OTHER STORIES, as before. Black weave clutch bag, Themoiré, 495 WINE Vanessa wears: Grey Lily Donegal tweed blazer, 399, at MAGEE 1866, 21-26 South Anne Street, Dublin 2. Nude slip dress with silver flower sequins, SIMONE ROCHA, 1,120, at Havana, Donnybrook, Dublin 4. Gold-tone Ivy hoop earrings, 55, ONE DAME LANE, as before. Silver Amberley chunky necklace wit WINE EARN YOUR STRIPES Blue and white stripe shirt with detachable collar and cuffs, LOEWE, 880; pink linen-mix pleat-front trousers, STELLA MC CARTNEY, 650; both at Brown Thomas. Brown leather slingback loafers, 110, at & OTHER STORIES, as before. Baroque pearl earrings, COMPLETED WORKS, 320, at TRAVEL TRAVEL ZIMME RMAN N RES ORT S S23 All R eleased between the autumn/winter and spring/summer collections, the original aim of the Cruise collections was to kit out wealthy clients who decamped to warmer climes, such as Palm Beach or Miami, during winter months. Coco Chanel is given credi Smile and the world smiles with you. IrelandsEye Knitwear. Combining contemporary styles and stitches with vibrant colours for a fresh modern look and feel. www.irelandseyeknitwear.com TRAVEL TRAVEL Royal Caribbeans Wonder of the Seas. The Chanel Cruise 2019, held in the Grand Palais in Paris. ships numerous lounges offer plenty of space to relax, while the central Plaza Mayor bar has been designed to evoke Salamanca citys spectacular main square. 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This spring, discover the fascinating north county Dublin trio of Malahide Castle & Gardens, The Casino Model Railway Museum and Newbridge House & Farm THE CASINO MODEL RAILWAY MUSEUM MALA BOOKS Spies Like Us A book by Nathalia Holt reveals the untold stories of women in the CIA, including Liz Sudmeier I n the dark, Liz Sudmeier could be anyone. She could be a bored housewife looking for an afternoon of amusement at the movies. With flat shoes, a calf-skimming skirt, and no make-u A match made in kitchen heaven TH A NK S TO OUR SUPER B INDUCTION HOB WITH I N T E G R AT E D V E N T I L AT I O N . This new power couple brings the best of both worlds to your kitchen. We created a built-in appliance that offers you top noise reduction, strong performance on both counts, and a del WINE Kiwi Fruits Try New Zealand Chardonnay, says Julie Dupouy B y March, the natural world around us has fully awoken from its winter slumber. In the northern hemisphere, early March marks the start of a new cycle in the vineyard with the vines pulse gently flickering back to life. This new flo FOOD Nothing Fancy Trish Deseine says goodbye for good to over-fussy food E merging from a seemingly endless winter, its only now that the true impact of the last three years is really hitting home. Theres a reckoning with the enormity of it all, alongside a palpable brightness and determined op ADVERTORIAL CELEBRATING MOTHERS THIS MARCH FOOD Restaurant Notes Ciara McQuillan is in search of value and these four fit the bill, literally ... FISH SHOP, DUBLIN 7 SPRING MOTIF COLLECTION Beautiful assortment of some of Butlers most popular chocolates, presented in an on-trend red and pink bo INVESTMENT CLUB THE GLOSS GOODBODY INVESTMENT CLUB If you dont take control, who will? Its time to have a complimentary Financial Health Check-up We offer all our members of THE GLOSSGOODBODY Investment Club a complimentary Financial Health Check with a Goodbody financial advisor who really unde THIS GLOSSY LIFE CHLOE MC GINLEY Digital content creator MY STYLE IS minimal, classic, neutral. SS23 is about keeping things classic and focusing on quality. TRENDS ILL BE ADOPTING THIS SEASON A sheer top or dress worn under a blazer. Ive already bought a few maxi skirts from Zara and an Australian This Glossy Life EIDER LEITE Freelance stylist and personal shopper MY STYLE is classic with a twist. SS23 is about getting dressed up and going all out! TRENDS ILL BE ADOPTING THIS SEASON Eider wears: Black wool U-lock blazer, Givenchy; navy corduroy trousers, Prada; white logo high-top trainers THIS GLOSSY LIFE JOHANNA DOOLEY AND KARA OSULLIVAN Founders of fashion rental platform Greens Are Good For You OUR STYLE IS about fun, colour and showing our personalities via our outfits. SS23 has a very romantic mood with floral and sheer trends. We believe the Y2K trend is here to stay via low-ri THIS GLOSSY LIFE Sinead wears: Biscuit blazer, Hailey Bieber X Wardrobe.NYC, at Brown Thomas; cream shirt; white lace vest; cream satin mini skirt; all Sinead Keary The Label; www.sineadkeary.com. Tan suede knee-high boots, Isabel Marant. Shot on location at Isabelles, Royal Hibernian Way, Dublin 2 ENVIRONMENT A Drop in The Ocean Power to the people in energy communities, says Holly Hughes I reland is a country whose dependence on fossil fuels which we are supposed to be reducing by 4.8 per cent every year until 2025 is actually increasing. Energyrelated emissions rose by 5.4 per cent in Book a design consultation and discover a new way of living. mcnallyliving.ie Book a design consultation today +353 1 660 4856 46 Serpentine Avenue Ballsbridge Dublin 4