DINING
Restaurant
Notes
Ciara McQuillan selects summer holiday stop-offs
LANDLINE, PARK HOTEL KENMARE, CO KERRY: THE SCOOP Named
after an abstract painting by artist Sean Scully, Landline was designed by Kenmareborn interior designer, Bryan OSullivan (of BOS Studio), whose portfolio includes
Claridges and The Connaught in London, and the new café at the Frick Museum
in New York. Its an entirely delicious feast for the eyes. ON THE PLATE The food
by chef James OSullivan is just as considered as the interior elegant, confident,
and delicious. Expect dishes such as local scallops with wild rice, pancetta and
squash, and spring pea velouté to start, followed by pan-seared black sole with
sauce Grenobloise. WHAT ELSE? The new(ish) owners at The Park Hotel, Bryan
and Tara Meehan, have transformed the property with the addition of their
extensive collection of art, and there are now daily art tours at 5pm. Landline, Park
Hotel Kenmare, Co Kerry, 064 6641 200; www.parkkenmare.com.
LANDLINE
THE CUAN, STRANGFORD VILLAGE, CO DOWN: THE SCOOP A low-key
restaurant with rooms, The Cuan has been a mainstay in the village of Strangford
since the 1800s. Once a well-worn pub (with a Game of Thrones cameo), The Cuan
reopened in 2021 after a £1m stg makeover, emerging as a boutique hotel with a
highly acclaimed restaurant. There are nine nature-inspired bedrooms, designed
by Garuda Design, and on the ground floor, a New York-inspired Art Deco-style
bar. ON THE PLATE Chef Gerard Sands leads the kitchen with a deft hand,
turning out elevated pub fare thats big on local flavour. There is seafood chowder
with treacle and Guinness bread, Strangford mussels and Portavogie prawns from
the neighbouring town. WHAT ELSE? After lunch in The Cuan, take the tenminute ferry from Strangford across to Portaferry and experience the Marine
Nature Reserve with its population of seals, jellyfish, and sea birds. The Cuan,
Strangford Village, Co Down, 0044 28 4488 1222; www.thecuan.com.
THE CUAN
THE FISH BASKET
THE FISH BASKET, CLONAKILTY, CO CORK: THE SCOOP Overlooking
Long Strand Beach in Clonakilty, The Fish Basket is the kind of spot you want
to gatekeep, but, in good conscience, just cant. What started as a beachside food
truck by Peter and Elaine Shanahan is now a seaside destination restaurant with
surf views and a loyal queue of sandy-toed regulars. ON THE PLATE This is
purist seafood done right. The fish looks and tastes as if it has come straight
from the boat, into the fryer, and onto your tray. The fish and chips are textbook
perfect with crispy batter, flaky fish, served with peas, and a dollop of homemade
tartare sauce. The fish tacos are zingy, and the open crab sandwich is generous and
flavoursome. WHAT ELSE? Whatever you do, leave room for cake. Elaines bakes
arent just an afterthought; the coffee cake and lemon drizzle are reason enough to
visit. Allow time for a walk along Long Strand afterwards. The Fish Basket, Long
Strand Beach, Castlefreke, Clonakilty, Co Cork, 023 885 1716; www.thefishbasket.ie.
KOMBU RAMEN AND BAO BAR
BLACKTHORN
BLACKTHORN, THE TWELVE HOTEL, GALWAY: THE SCOOP Blackthorn has
KOMBU RAMEN AND BAO BAR, GALWAY: THE SCOOP Galways most
prolific chef/culinary academic/playwright/painter JP McMahon has swapped
tasting menus for teriyaki and tempura with the opening of Kombu Ramen and Bao
Bar on Druids Lane in Galway. Kombu is named after the umami-packed seaweed
that forms the backbone of many Japanese broths. ON THE PLATE Steaming bowls
of ramen along with a selection of teriyakis, tempura, and rice dishes. There is also
a creative selection of bao buns, including the dessert bao with (brace yourself)
chocolate ganache with wasabi salt. Its exactly the kind of casual dining you would
expect from a chef who has actually written books on flavour. WHAT ELSE? If
you happen to be lucky enough to be spending a few days in Galway this summer,
you could do a lot worse than visiting McMahons other culinary institutions,
Aniar and Cava Bodega. Kombu Ramen and Bao Bar, Druids Lane, Galway;
www.instagram.com/komburamenbaogalway/.
38 July/August 2025 THE GLOSS MAGAZINE
replaced the long-standing West restaurant at The Twelve Hotel, but fear not, head chef
Nathan Hindmarsh is still at the helm, and extraordinary sommelier Fergal Guiney
hasnt gone anywhere either. The dining space itself has undergone a revamp, swapping
the previous layout for a mix of smaller and communal tables that makes it feel more like
a social supper club than a formal fine dining establishment. But the real shift is on the
menu, with a selection of contemporary dishes that are already earning glowing reviews.
ON THE PLATE Starters range from barbecued quail ramen with spiced foie gras broth
to a summery courgette salad with smoked almond, ricotta and tahini, while the mains
feature irresistible meat dishes cooked over fire on the Mibrasa parrilla grill. WHAT
ELSE? Making a night of it seems like a no-brainer. One night bed and breakfast at The
Twelve, with dinner in Blackthorn, starts at €160 per person. Blackthorn, The Twelve
Hotel, Barna Coast Road, Barna, Co Galway, 091 597 000; www.blackthorngalway.com.
@ciaramcquillan
SWEET SUNDAE SCENTS / PACKING TIPS FOR IRISH TRIPS / WINE WITH LUNCH / CHECKS AND STRIPES / BEACH READS / THINGS TO DO MAGAZINE JULY/AUGUST 2025 with THE IRISH TIMES ww w.the gloss.ie Great Irish Holidays Relaxed, simple, sophisticated take the scenic route
In celebration of 25 years of Raindance A Family Story Since 1798
CONTENTS IN THIS ISSUE THE GLOSS MONTHLY REMINDER SIGN UP to receive a monthly reminder by email when THE GLOSS is out so that you never miss an issue. Simply register your details on WWW.THEGLOSS.IE. PU B LI S H E R JANE M C D ONNE LL EDITOR SARAH MC DONNEL L D EP UT Y ED IT OR S Í O MHA CO N
ADVERTORIAL Q&A At Close Range Interview with Alan Meredith, Architect and Furniture Designer Y our favourite virtue Authenticity. I have no patience for insincerity or dishonesty, and I think that comes through in my work its a constant search for something real. Your favourite qualities in a
ADVERTORIAL AT YOUR SERVICE Weir & Sons of Grafton Street Dublin has a Rolex Authorised Service Centre offering Irish customers assurance that their precious timepieces are being serviced by experts W hen the visionary Bavarian entrepreneur Hans Wilsdorf founded Rolex in 1905, his guiding princi
ADVERTORIAL Servicing protects the sentimental value of your timepiece, keeping it in pristine condition to be treasured and passed down through generations ... Weir & Sons Rolex Watch Makers and Chris Andrews MD. uncompromising criteria. Rolex conducts regular audits and inspections of our facil
GLOSSIP TWO UP Gloss~ip! ETRO Warm and Sunny Slow down and simplify ... JORTS Aka jean shorts. Longer than cutoffs (to just above the knee) these have a loose, borrowedfrom-the-boys vibe. D o you ever consider how, as you get older, you actually like the things about an Irish holiday that u
Photo by Flavien Carlod, for advertising purposes only. GENEROUS DISCOUNTS ON ALL CLEARANCE AND EX-DISPLAY ITEMS DUBLIN 18 - Beacon South Quarter, Sandyford, D18 XF34
JENNIFER LAWRENCE
LA GRANDE CLASSIQUE DE LONGINES WICKLOW ST OPENING SOON
FASHION Spot The Trend 2 1 TOMMY HILFIGER Checks and stripes are back on top, says Aislinn Coffey 3 4 5 6 LAUNCHMETRICS/IMAXTREE 7 8 9 VIBE CHECK Checks and stripes, from large-scale checks to washed-out ginghams to old-school deckchair stripes in soft colours, are back on the fashion r
Est.1887 ADAMS INVITATION TO CONSIGN An Irish Connection to An International Market FINE JEWELLERY AUCTION For a confidential and complimentary valuation: Contact Director: Claire Mestrallet (Deadline to consign, Friday 8th August) @clm_adams_auctioneers www.adams.ie 26 St. Stephens Green, Dub
MOODBOARD Summer Mood A Grand Stretch by Susan Zelouf 5 7 6 1. IM LOOKING sharp in a thistle and Nile green silk scarf. www.ciarasilke.com. 4 3 2. IM UNDOING winters spell in a 2 pink Vivienne Irish linen dress by Kindred of Ireland at Brown Thomas. 3. IM OPENING summer wine with a 24ct g
FOR THOSE WHO KNOW Set the stage for the extraordinary. Introducing the new generation of cooling. The difference is Gaggenau www.gaggenau.com/ie
FASHION VOLUMINOUS DRESSES Raincoats are on the fashion forecast for summer. Scarlet Lizzy showerproof mac coat, Barbour, 310.80; www.flannels.ie. PALE NAIL POLISH An ice-cool manicure adds a touch of glamour, even on the cloudiest days. Les Mains Hermès Aqua Vert nail polish, €54; www.hermes.co
Elevated Show Nights Await with Annual Membership Nestled in the heart of Bord Gáis Energy Theatre, Circle Club offers members the finest pre-show dining followed by world-class performances. Email membership@bgetheatre.ie for further information.
FASHION FASHION A crisp cotton shirt is an often-overlooked hardworking basic. The styling trick from the Bottega Veneta and Ralph Lauren SS25 shows: wearing shirts as jackets, layered over T-shirts, vests and even fine knits. Top: Ivory Hazel linen blazer, 189, at Sinead Keary The Label, Kildare
CO.ANTRIM THE GREAT ESCAPE STAY SPA DINE GOLF galgorm.com
FASHION FAB AT 50 @ERINWASSON SPF is your daily essential (even on a cloudy day): this brilliant formula protects your skin and acts as a tinted moisturiser. Emma Lewisham Sunceutical SPF50 Mineral Face Crème (refillable), €55, at Space NK. PICNIC BLANKETS 1 J Crews SS25 lunch in Portugal. BA
JEWELS NEW CAPSULE CARD - AVAILABLE NOW A PALETTE OF EIGHT RICH SHADES INSPIRED BY NATURAL MINERALS Free colour cards & wallpaper samples Paint & wallpaper to order Nationwide Stockists +44 (0) 161 230 0882 info@paintandpaperlibrary.com paintandpaperlibrary.com
ADVERTORIAL Illustrator Grainne Bath Enright. Jewellery designer Bláithín Enni s. Singer-songwriter Darren Kiely. SÓ IRISH AT KILDARE VILLAGE Theres so much to explore at Kildare Village this summer, with new boutiques, pop-up performances, an open-air sculpture gallery and an exclusive Designer
ADVERTORIAL Kildare Village is celebrating Irish culture, fashion and beauty all summer long, as part of its Só Irish campaign. The outdoor sculpture gallery in partnership with The Kildare Gallery. that while prints and patterns might change season to season, silhouettes will remain the same, so
BEAUTY Beauty Notes POCO BEAUTY CHANEL News & views, by Sarah Halliwell the French pharmacy favourite, an illuminating dry oil with a soft scent. Self-tan can give you a boost, but its not for every day the DHA in it makes your skin dry out, so do take breaks from it. I tend towards tanning dr
Since 1934 THE LEGENDARY BLUE BOX newbridgesilverware.com
Love every room Castlebellingham, Co. Louth sales@oconnorsofdrumleck.ie +353 (0) 42 937 2625 oconnorsofdrumleck.ie
BEAUTY TREND Benefit Benetint in Black Cherry, 28, at counters nationwide. Chanel le Vernis in Artiste, 33; www.chanel.com. Dior Show Liquid Eyeliner in Shimmer Green, 42. Armani Beauty Luminous Silk Cheek Tint, 43, at counters nationwide. ri u m Ph yt o 3 Natu , 55; ww lipe w. Tu he Dior 5
ADVERTORIAL TOUCH & TRUST From day one, Neelu built not just a business, but also a bond with her clients, offering care, connection and community. I have been the luckiest person in business; the people in Dun Laoghaire were wonderful to me all those years. I was young when I arrived, and had neve
ADVERTORIAL Cottage cool with Dulux Heritage paints This country cottage in Wicklow looked rather tired until digital creator Jodie Wood gave it a slick, modern, characterful update, both inside and out N ot many people bid on a house without first viewing inside, even fewer when theyre in a mat
ADVERTORIAL Jodie Wood and her four-month-old daughter, Sadie. now, but I know its only a matter of time ... The most recent (and last) transformation in the house is Sadies bedroom. It was more of a feeling she says of her approach to decorating this space. I wanted to go into this room and feel
SOCIAL LIFE stand unobserved, which we came to affectionally call the changing corner. Did we complain at the time? Well yes, a bit, actually, but we didnt moan. Will I try and use it as leverage to get a better room this year? Absolutely. SAFETY FIRST If, like me, your approach to child safety is
Visit our Showroom 4 Knockmitten Lane Dublin 12 D12 DK50 sales@thesofafactory.com thesofafactory.com 01 465 9817 The he Art of Upholstery in Ireland Classic Sofas Made to Order Stockist of Vintage & Antique Chairs Reupholstery Specialists
info@newcastledesign.ie 0404 65000 newcastledesign.ie
BOOKS Reading Notes Edel Coffey chooses books for the beach T he novel that everyone is getting excited about this summer is NOTES ON INFINITY (Michael Joseph, €16.99), the debut from Austin Taylor. Described as Normal People (Sally Rooney) meets Tomorrow, and Tomorrow, and Tomorrow (Gabrielle
BOOKS EXPLORING IRELAND Michael Fewer is an architect and academic who has written 26 books. It was while researching his book Irish Long Distance Walks that he came across many fascinating and quirky objects around the country that told their own local histories. He collected these stories in his
BOOKS Life in the Shadows Ecuadorian-American author Karla Cornejo Villavicencios debut novel Catalina is a timely portrait of an undocumented immigrants life at Harvard University. By Caelan McMichael U nder the Trump admisistration, undercover ICE (Immigration and Customs Enforcement) officers
ADVERTORIAL Aisling Cleary and Danielle Andrews, Clinical Directors at Laser + Skin Clinic. A Revolutionary Acne Treatment A breakthrough in acne therapy takes an innovative approach F or many, clear skin is about more than aesthetics, its about confidence, self-esteem and feeling good. Yes, fo
DINING Restaurant Notes Ciara McQuillan selects summer holiday stop-offs LANDLINE, PARK HOTEL KENMARE, CO KERRY: THE SCOOP Named after an abstract painting by artist Sean Scully, Landline was designed by Kenmareborn interior designer, Bryan OSullivan (of BOS Studio), whose portfolio includes Clar
VALERIE OSULLIVAN INTERVIEW WITH A MAN Theres nothing I love more than standing in front of 1,000 people in a theatre and telling them about birds. SEÁN RONAYNE Birds of a Feather Seán Ronayne is an ornithologist, author and environmental activist, who, since 2021, has been on a mission to record
INTERVIEW WITH A MAN INTERVIEW WITH A MAN talk about was birds and Id try to mimic other peoples behaviours, but that didnt work either. I felt like a loser, but when I got the diagnosis, I was able to forgive myself and it gave me a lot more confidence. It allowed me to see the positives, like my
WINE La Vie En Rosé Julie Dupouy pairs rosé with summer suppers O ften associated with summer, sunny terraces, and casual apéritifs, rosé wines have for too long carried a reputation for being simple quaffing wines, hardly worthy of a moment of pause for appreciation. Yet behind their many hues
FOOD SCENIC ROUTE Ballyshane House and the resident Irish terriers. Kitty Coles. Kitty Coles takes a road trip along Irelands South East coast to East Cork, where she discovers a culinary community thats innovative and inviting I have just returned from one of my favourite trips in the last f
FOOD FOOD JR RYALLS ALMOND TART (OR TARTLETS) WITH RASPBERRIES lley, Cork. The dessert trolley at Ballymaloe House. The Long Va Myrtle Allen began making these tarts for the Ballymaloe dessert trolley over half a century ago. The base couldnt be easier to prepare; it literally takes one minute t
JASMINE HUGHES TRAVEL GREAT IRISH HOLIDAYS The Irish summer holiday combines simplicity and sophistication we find extraordinary places to stay, eat and explore F Ophelia Keane of Carpa Dining at Inish Beg Estate. or a perfect base from which to explore West Cork, book the recently renovated F
TRAVEL The new Nordic-style cabins at Ballygarry Estate. The terrace outside Hannos Workshop at Mossies B&B. latest addition to the accommodation offering is Hannos Workshop, a selfcatering barn with a New York-style loft (two guests; pets allowed). A new sauna has just opened beside a small pond
TRAVEL Visit Coan Coffee on the Ards Peninsula for cappucino and carrot cake. Annalong, close to the seaside town of Newcastle, with the Mourne Mountains as a backdrop; www.kribbencottages.com. At Strangford Lough Activity Centre, Rory Martin runs Sunrise and Full Moon kayaking experiences and e-b
TRAVEL Fans of the award-winning Misunderstood Heron formerly perched above Killary Fjord and hailed by Lonely Planet as one of the worlds top ten coolest food trucks will be thrilled by its new home at BigStyle Lodge at P Dans, Killadoon, near Louisburgh, which has a terrace with incredible sea
TRAVEL Travel Notes Penny McCormick takes a road trip out west Glenlo Abbey Hotel. The sitting room. Deluxe bedroom with view of Lough Corrib. The Pullman Restaurant. CHECKING IN: GLENLO ABBEY HOTEL & ESTATE, GALWAY Take a trip around Inis Mór with Thomas Faherty Tours; www.aranponytrap.com.
Kitchen appliances worth talking about Discuss your kitchen needs and learn all about the latest and greatest from Bosch, Siemens and Neff from our experts in the Home of Innovation, Dublin. Or if you prefer to see them in action, join one of our cooking demonstrations. Visit homeofinnovation.ie to