FOOD SCENIC ROUTE Ballyshane House and the resident Irish terriers. Kitty Coles. Kitty Coles takes a road trip along Irelands South East coast to East Cork, where she discovers a culinary community thats innovative and inviting I have just returned from one of my favourite trips in the last few years. It all started by driving just 45 minutes south of Dublin to Burtown House and Gardens in Kildare, as a stopover en route to explore East Cork. I arrived and was welcomed by owner James Fennell, who had called me earlier that day to enquire about my arrival time and then proceeded to help me with my food shop, talking me through what he had growing in the gardens: Im in the polytunnel now and weve got chard, beetroots, herbs, and some asparagus, so dont buy any of that, well sort you out. Within half an hour of arriving, Id been speedily shown around my wisteria-covered Stable House accommodation and the surrounding grounds, and had arranged to meet Jamess 82-year-old mother, Lesley (who I nearly ran over while she was weeding the driveway) for her evening dog walk to pick some produce from the garden. The next day, as I took my homemade scones out of the Aga and spread them liberally with butter, Cashel Blue cheese, and a pile of lemon-dressed cucumbers (trust me, its good), I started to think this country life could suit me nicely. I could have happily stayed longer forever, even but I had plans, so I waved everyone goodbye and headed off towards the coast. Continuing on my journey towards Cork, I made a stop in Tramore, Co Waterford to visit Seagull Bakery, then took my pastry and coffee to the beach, where I sat beside a row of shirtless men with deep mahogany tans, their bellies out, speaking in accents I couldnt understand. With the blue skies and warm weather, I felt like I could have been somewhere in the Mediterranean not the south coast of Ireland. The Beach House in Tramore, where I had hoped to go for lunch, was closed (note to self: check opening times before visits), so I drove the coastal road to Dungarvan for lunch at The Moorings instead, where I sat outside and had buttery crab claws and prawns, a doorstop-sized slice of soda bread, and a glass of Guinness, with boats clinking beside me. A very good second option. I made an essential stop for ice cream (Magnum, almond) before setting off on a further hours drive to Ballyshane, Co Cork where I was welcomed at my next rental, a barn at Canice Sharkeys delightful Ballyshane House, by housekeeper Anne, who showed me around my accommodation with two Irish terriers in tow. Ballyshane House is set on the cliffs overlooking Ballybranagan Beach. The barn definitely didnt look as fancy in the pictures online as it does in real life, so I was seriously impressed. Also not pictured was the abundant vegetable garden, from which Anne encouraged me to help myself. I hate to use the phrase hidden gem, but if there was ever a justified use, this is it. Canice Sharkey co-owns Isaacs restaurant in Cork, so unsurprisingly the kitchen was excellently equipped to cook the chunk of cod and samphire Id picked up from Ballycotton Fishmongers, served with a dollop of Ballymaloe mayonnaise and spring onions, herbs, and leaves picked from the Ballyshane garden. A perfect day, finished by walking down the beach for the 10pm sunset. By Friday morning, the sun was still shining, and I headed to Ballymaloe House to meet pastry chef JR Ryall, who showed me around as if he had all the time in the world, even though I knew he was midway through prepping for a big wedding that day. We walked around the sprawling and abundant grounds, while he told me intricate details 42 July/August 2025 THE GLOSS MAGAZINE Tom Hayes supper club on Ballybranagan beach. about the plants they grow, handing me things to taste and smell as we walked. I didnt hide my disappointment at not being able to experience JRs famous dessert trolley but reassured him Ill be back for another visit soon. JR told me that Rory OConnell had invited me for lunch at the cookery school, so I cancelled the plans I had (toasties and pints at The Long Valley in Cork) and headed over to the school to nervously introduce myself. Rory, Rachel Allen, and all the staff welcomed me as if Id been there forever and ushered me into a long dining room that was filling up with food the students had made that day homemade pasta, fish pie, fish curries, profiteroles, and big salads from the garden. The lunch tables spilled out into the walled garden, all laid with gingham tablecloths and jars of roses, as if they were also hosting a wedding. Rachel Allen kindly walked gave me a tour, effortlessly recalling everyones first and last names as she led me through the kitchens where students were being examined on their dishes. I could soon see why people love it at Ballymaloe, its a charming bubble I suddenly wanted to be in. The students had come from all corners of the world, but all have a shared passion for cooking and food. Everyone had made the same big decision to put their life at home on hold and come to Ireland for twelve weeks to join in this SWEET SUNDAE SCENTS / PACKING TIPS FOR IRISH TRIPS / WINE WITH LUNCH / CHECKS AND STRIPES / BEACH READS / THINGS TO DO MAGAZINE JULY/AUGUST 2025 with THE IRISH TIMES ww w.the gloss.ie Great Irish Holidays Relaxed, simple, sophisticated take the scenic route In celebration of 25 years of Raindance A Family Story Since 1798 CONTENTS IN THIS ISSUE THE GLOSS MONTHLY REMINDER SIGN UP to receive a monthly reminder by email when THE GLOSS is out so that you never miss an issue. Simply register your details on WWW.THEGLOSS.IE. PU B LI S H E R JANE M C D ONNE LL EDITOR SARAH MC DONNEL L D EP UT Y ED IT OR S Í O MHA CO N ADVERTORIAL Q&A At Close Range Interview with Alan Meredith, Architect and Furniture Designer Y our favourite virtue Authenticity. 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Yes, fo DINING Restaurant Notes Ciara McQuillan selects summer holiday stop-offs LANDLINE, PARK HOTEL KENMARE, CO KERRY: THE SCOOP Named after an abstract painting by artist Sean Scully, Landline was designed by Kenmareborn interior designer, Bryan OSullivan (of BOS Studio), whose portfolio includes Clar VALERIE OSULLIVAN INTERVIEW WITH A MAN Theres nothing I love more than standing in front of 1,000 people in a theatre and telling them about birds. SEÁN RONAYNE Birds of a Feather Seán Ronayne is an ornithologist, author and environmental activist, who, since 2021, has been on a mission to record INTERVIEW WITH A MAN INTERVIEW WITH A MAN talk about was birds and Id try to mimic other peoples behaviours, but that didnt work either. I felt like a loser, but when I got the diagnosis, I was able to forgive myself and it gave me a lot more confidence. It allowed me to see the positives, like my WINE La Vie En Rosé Julie Dupouy pairs rosé with summer suppers O ften associated with summer, sunny terraces, and casual apéritifs, rosé wines have for too long carried a reputation for being simple quaffing wines, hardly worthy of a moment of pause for appreciation. Yet behind their many hues FOOD SCENIC ROUTE Ballyshane House and the resident Irish terriers. Kitty Coles. Kitty Coles takes a road trip along Irelands South East coast to East Cork, where she discovers a culinary community thats innovative and inviting I have just returned from one of my favourite trips in the last f FOOD FOOD JR RYALLS ALMOND TART (OR TARTLETS) WITH RASPBERRIES lley, Cork. The dessert trolley at Ballymaloe House. The Long Va Myrtle Allen began making these tarts for the Ballymaloe dessert trolley over half a century ago. The base couldnt be easier to prepare; it literally takes one minute t JASMINE HUGHES TRAVEL GREAT IRISH HOLIDAYS The Irish summer holiday combines simplicity and sophistication we find extraordinary places to stay, eat and explore F Ophelia Keane of Carpa Dining at Inish Beg Estate. or a perfect base from which to explore West Cork, book the recently renovated F TRAVEL The new Nordic-style cabins at Ballygarry Estate. The terrace outside Hannos Workshop at Mossies B&B. latest addition to the accommodation offering is Hannos Workshop, a selfcatering barn with a New York-style loft (two guests; pets allowed). A new sauna has just opened beside a small pond TRAVEL Visit Coan Coffee on the Ards Peninsula for cappucino and carrot cake. Annalong, close to the seaside town of Newcastle, with the Mourne Mountains as a backdrop; www.kribbencottages.com. At Strangford Lough Activity Centre, Rory Martin runs Sunrise and Full Moon kayaking experiences and e-b TRAVEL Fans of the award-winning Misunderstood Heron formerly perched above Killary Fjord and hailed by Lonely Planet as one of the worlds top ten coolest food trucks will be thrilled by its new home at BigStyle Lodge at P Dans, Killadoon, near Louisburgh, which has a terrace with incredible sea TRAVEL Travel Notes Penny McCormick takes a road trip out west Glenlo Abbey Hotel. The sitting room. Deluxe bedroom with view of Lough Corrib. The Pullman Restaurant. CHECKING IN: GLENLO ABBEY HOTEL & ESTATE, GALWAY Take a trip around Inis Mór with Thomas Faherty Tours; www.aranponytrap.com. Kitchen appliances worth talking about Discuss your kitchen needs and learn all about the latest and greatest from Bosch, Siemens and Neff from our experts in the Home of Innovation, Dublin. Or if you prefer to see them in action, join one of our cooking demonstrations. Visit homeofinnovation.ie to