the FUTURE finale, supermodel Kristen McMenamy sashayed through the Irish embassy in Paris in 15 metres of Carrickmacross lace. It reportedly took a team of 26 Monaghan-based artisans over nine months to create the gown, with ten hours of work required to produce just 20 centimetres. Speaking after the show, Stewart told reporters, I wanted to present what Irish craft can be, and bring it to a stage it deserves to be on. Stewart isnt the only designer bringing Irish craft to the world stage. Since taking the helm at Dior, Anderson has refashioned the brands signature bar jackets in Donegal tweed, a nod to Christian Diors use of the heritage textile in early collections. The fashion house, of course, has a long history of centring craft as celebrated in this summers exhibition Dior: Crafting Fashion at SCAD FASH, a world-leading fashion museum in Atlanta, Georgia. Andersons vision for the brand is to restore this historic focus: he has reportedly doubled the size of Diors atelier, enabling it to produce ever more intricate and labour-intensive designs. An ongoing (and incredibly popular) exhibition of the brands history at its Galerie Dior space in Paris, meanwhile, features live demonstrations by tailors, dressmakers, embroiderers and leathersmiths in its Ateliers du Rêve room. In December, Anderson will double down on his Irish roots by showing Diors autumn winter 2027 pre-fall collection at Trinity College Dublin. While the collection is yet to be revealed, it seems likely that more Irish heritage crafts will feature, given their centrality to Andersons brand DNA. Meanwhile in Brussels, Irelands Presidency of the Council of the European Union is being celebrated with an exhibition of contemporary Irish art and craft at the EU Headquarters, Europa House, until December 12. Under the title Cuimhne agus Séadchomhartha (Memory and Monument), fashion designer-turned-artist Richard Malone presents his draped fabric sculptures alongside a curated selection of hand-tufted rugs by Ceadogan Rugmakers, woven fabrics by Mourne Textiles and porcelain vessels by Sara Flynn. In selecting these craft items to display alongside his artworks, and those of renowned contemporary artists including Niamh OMalley and Aleana Egan, Malone is deliberately breaking down the barrier between fine art and craft. Why arent certain stitch samplers or certain quilts collected [by museums]? Why are certain artists not on our curriculum?, he pleaded to The Guardian earlier this year, highlighting the historic undervaluing of craft traditions, particularly those historically performed by women. In December 2025, it became possible for heritage crafts like Carrickmacross lace and Donegal tweed to gain geographic protection under the EUs new Craft and Industrial Geographic Indication scheme (giving them the same legal connection to place as, say, Champagne or Parmigiano Reggiano). Its an important first step in recognising the cultural and economic value of these products. But industry advocates point out that we have a long way to go: Irelands Arts Act continues to exclude craft, fashion and textiles from its definition of culture. In effect, this means these artisans and designers usually cannot apply for state funding or avail of government-backed schemes like Basic Income FASHION for the Arts, something the Council of Irish Fashion Designers has long protested. With high overheads, slow outputs and little state support, crafts can be costly to produce. This leads us to an important and somewhat paradoxical point. Just as our appetite for craft is soaring, the skills needed to produce it are becoming scarce. Fewer young people train in traditional techniques, while economic pressures cause struggling craftspeople to retrain or move abroad. Meanwhile, as highly skilled elder artisans retire or die, certain heritage crafts are at risk of being lost entirely (linen damask weaving, for instance, is classed as critically endangered). Just as Irish craft is getting its moment on the world stage, its glass slipper could be falling off what if we dont foster the next generation of craftspeople to sustain this new interest? Thankfully, a host of young designers and makers are determined to buck the trend and keep traditional textile crafts alive. Not long before the star turn of Donegal tweed on the runway at Dior, the regions traditional loom weaving technique was close to extinction. A traineeship under one of the last remaining master weavers, John Heena, was launched in 2022 (supported by Donegal tweed producers including Magee Weaving), in a bid to save it from oblivion. The scheme has already spawned fresh talent, including weavers Léila Worth, who uses colourful Donegal yarns to craft tweed coats and blankets, and Ailbhe Beatty. Trained as an architect, Beatty has painstakingly restored an antique wooden floor loom since completing her traineeship (a journey documented on her Instagram, @ girlmeetsloom) and now uses it to craft sumptuous wool throws, scarves and ties for her brand Seol Studios, launched in 2024. She also works with Paul Henry Tailoring, supplying handwoven cloth for bespoke jackets. Traditional handicrafts, meanwhile, are being revived by contemporary Irish fashion designers such as Róisín Pierce, winner of a bevy of prizes including Chanels Métiers dArt, the Hyères and, more recently, the Golden Fleece Merit Award. Pierces designs deploy an array of techniques to honour not only Irelands rich history of craftsmanship, but also its darker histories, such as the indentured labour performed by women in Magdalene laundries. Pierce learned the techniques of crochet, lace and smocking from her mother, Angela, who still helps her create each collection by hand. While continuing to produce her made-to-order pieces in-house, she now supplements her familial skill set through partnerships with master craftspeople in knitting, crochet, embroidery, and pleating, using traditional techniques to create forward-thinking, sculptural silhouettes that have won the approval of Rei Kawakubo of Comme des Garçons (who has stocked items in Dover Street Market) and Alexa Chung, who wore the brand to the 2023 Met Gala. So with a younger generation beginning to embrace the slower pace and challenging skills required to create hand-crafted fashion, and a global audience waking up to the quality and value of Irish heritage crafts, it seems Cinderella might finally get her night at the ball. Her glass slippers? Cut by artisans in Waterford, of course. Just as our appetite for craft is soaring, the skills needed to produce it are becoming scarce. September 2026 51 THE IRISH TIMES SEPTEMBER 2026 Autumns new mood Crafting the future + Susie Cave Maria Grachvogel Adrian Dunbar ww th w. eg los s.i e n o i h s E a f SU e h t THE NEW FRAGRANCE CONTENTS the gloss E D I TO R JE NNIFE R STE V E NS D EP UT Y ED ITOR S Í O MHA CO NNO LLY STYLE E D I TO R AISLINN CO FFE Y B EAUT Y ED ITOR SARAH HALLIW E LL CO N T R I B U TI N G E D I TO R PE NNY MC CO RMICK A R T D IR EC TOR PATRICIA C MAR INHO D IGITA L ED ITOR RACHE L HE ALY A DV ER T THE FIRST WORD The Edit restaurants, books, trends, culture This Month Ruth Negga in Radio Bette Lake Burst by Maia Nunes Perry Ogden Through the Lens S SÉZANE Mark Moriarty Studio For aspiring photographers inspired by the incredible eptember is a time for renewal. In the pages of THE GLO TREND 1 Spot The Trend T 3 2 Dramatic glamour is back By Aislinn Coffey 6 4 5 he AW26 shows marked the return of glamour, with designers embracing bold dressing over the restrained minimalism of recent seasons. At Gucci in Milan, jet-black lace and dramatic faux fur coats set the tone under t Photography by Flavien Carlod and Baptiste Le Quiniou. Images are non-contractual. TASCHEN. Éditions Zulma. DDM Architectuur. French Ar t de Vivre Margaux. Large 3-seater sofa, designed by Sacha Lakic. Exclusive Price: 3.950 €* reduced from 4.490 €, until 30/11/2026. Sofa. Eco-designed. W. 240 H. FORECAST 3 Moodboard 4 2 By Susan Zelouf J onesing for a Dolce & Gabbana SS17 pink silk sundress, appliquéd, embroidered and printed with blousy roses backfloating alongside a bestiary of ichthyological illustrations (thats fish to you), a Miami-based girlfriend and I took a hard right away fr ADVERTORIAL Q&A At Close Range Y Interior Designer Brian Woulfe our chief characteristic Curiosity. Ive always been fascinated by people, places and what makes a house feel like a home. What you appreciate the most in your friends Loyalty, honesty and the ability to laugh together, especially ADVERTORIAL RÓHE IN FOCUS Your new season wardrobe awaits at Brown Thomas T heres a bold new mood at Brown Thomas this season, with exciting arrivals from luxury labels from Erdem and Celine to Chloé, Dries Van Noten and Victoria Beckham. We are proud to bring Autumn/Winter 2026 In Focus, with c ADVERTORIAL VICTORIA BECKHAM KHAITE ERDEM VICTORIA BECKHAM There is a celebration of rich texture and detailed finishes, particularly on outerwear, at Dries Van Noten, Prada and Celine, ensuring an embroidered or embellished coat is the hero piece your autumn/winter occasionwear wardrobe needs. the w e N look TREND ENT ELIE SAAB Eveningwear channels the glamour of the 1980s through black lace, liquid satin, decadent faux fur and sharply tailored tuxedos worn bare beneath, finished with deliberately undone, bedhead hair. Saint Laurent, Fendi, Michael Kors and Gucci all leaned into this s TREND KALLMEYER ALEXANDE R DIO Chic checks return to the runway for AW26 but not as youve come to know them. Forget the usual highland country-casual plaids; instead, capes, coats, and separates got a modern, clean update. Take a look at Chanel, Tory Burch and Dior for fresh inspiration. Its in CORK LIMERICK KILLARNEY W W W. K E A N E S . I E CHANEL Blush pink DRIES VAN NOTEN TREND DIOR BALENCIAGA LANVIN PROENZA SCHOULER CATWALK LAUNCHMETRICS SPOTLIGHT Simone Rocha continues to be master of the soft flush, and other shows also encouraged us to wear more naturallooking blush, including Miu Miu and Valentino. Soft pink rosebud-co Cashmere www.lucynagle.com TREND Reworked leather I GUCC Runway denim Denim is fashions greatest wardrobe staple. For AW26, denim pivots from anything too grungy to true classic straight and cigarette-leg jeans (Stella McCartney, Tibi and Gucci) as well as saturated ink-wash tailored silhouettes (Givenchy). 22 September Irelands Premier Jewellery Auctioneers FI NE JE W EL L ERY AU CTI O N Tuesday 15th September 2026 PSRA Registration #001959 Catalogue Online: www.adams.ie For Enquiries, please contact: Head of Fine Jewellery, Claire Mestrallet +353 1 676 0261 claire@adams.ie 26 St. Stephens Green, Dublin 2. Ir ADVERTORIAL JODIE WOOD RETAIL BY DESIGN Kildare Village is celebrating its 20th anniversary as one of Irelands premier luxury shopping destinations with new shops, events and experiences W hen Kildare Village opened 20 years ago it offered Irish shoppers something distinctly different from the ADVERTORIAL The services, too, at the Village have always impressed, from its seamless valet parking and concierge to hands-free and personal shopping. These all make shopping a joy rather than a chore. Savvy shoppers and Kildare Village regulars sign up for membership where early notifications of FASHION I BURBERRY NINA R ICCI Heritage Revival GUCC DRIES VAN NOTEN LOUIS VUITTON DIOR EMILIA WICKST EAD M ERDE eritage is emerging as one of the defining fashion trends of AW26, with luxury houses mining their archives to reinforce craftsmanship, authenticity and longevity. Louis Vuitt New Collection In the Garden Eight cultivated wallpaper designs inspired by National Trust gardens Order samples and a complimentary colourcard, or find your nearest stockist at littlegreene.ie Colour Consultancy service available nationwide and online littlegreene.ie STELLA MCCARTNEY SS25 BOTTEGA VENETA AD HELMUT LANG WICKST E Extra Extra! DIOR oming off the summer of ludd (that is, luddite), screens are out, rotary phones are back and were craving newsprint. Indeed, as going offline becomes the new marker of luxury, its never been more aspirational to read What makes a design last generations? Is it exceptional craftsmanship? Is it honest materials? Is it timeless design? For us, its all of these. Thats what makes a Neptune home. Over 30 stores across the UK and Europe neptune.com Explore kitchen hen Maria Grachvogel was twelve years old, she started cutting and making clothes on her mothers sewing machine, initially for a friend and then for herself. Today, the 57-year-old London-based designer, self-taught and still drawing and making her own patterns, is an established name in British fas IN CONVERSATION one garment can be many things and immediately demonstrates exactly how. I am wearing a jumpsuit with a high neck drape. I can release the neck and it becomes a V-shape, a very different thing, she explains. There might be two or three ways depending on how you want to wear it for ADVERTORIAL Inside Clodagh McKennas bucolic country sanctuary Chef and TV presenter Clodagh McKenna reveals how embracing lighter, calmer interiors has made Broadspear House feel more like home than ever L ife at Broadspear House, the beautiful Georgian home which chef and TV presenter Clodagh Mc ADVERTORIAL and let them sit for a few days while she made her final decision. They were all different variations of a lovely soft white. And it's interesting how they all just have a tiny little difference, she says. At the beginning, you're thinking that they're all so similar, but actually, when BEAUTY Beauty Notes This months news and views By Sarah Halliwell A Need to know THE BODY CREAM The beauty world revolves around a relentless quest for the new. But we love enduring favourites, such as Parisian brand Bulys fragrant body lotions. Presented in a beautiful bottle (left), the light s ADVERTORIAL THE ULTIMATE SCULPTING FACIAL Neelu White is renowned for her non-invasive skin treatments. And her latest treatment is the Cryo-Thermal Sculpting Facial, a premium facial designed to enhance jawline definition, cheek elevation and improved skin texture and density. This facial also del Castlebellingham, Co. Louth sales@oconnorsofdrumleck.ie +353 (0) 42 937 2625 oconnorsofdrumleck.ie BEAUTY 1 2 3 4 Powder is Back Powder is high performing this season and Charlotte Tilbury is leading the charge. So many powders are still talc-based, but modern iterations, such as Tilburys Airbrush Flawless Blur Loose Powder (€54), avoid talc and do more than mattify. This is your new secret w B E G I N YO U R E V E RY D AY WITH foxford.com BEAUTY 5 6 7 8 The Blurred Lip The perfect lipstick for a soft, blurred lip? We love Simihazes Super Slick Lip Balm (left, from €27 for the mini, at www.cultbeauty.com) in bold berry and cherry red. The excellent formula and dome shape allows for both a defined line and a soft, moisturised lip, al JEWELS NEW CAPSULE CARD - AVAILABLE NOW A PALETTE OF EIGHT RICH SHADES INSPIRED BY NATURAL MINERALS Free colour cards & wallpaper samples Paint & wallpaper to order Nationwide Stockists +44 (0) 161 230 0882 info@paintandpaperlibrary.com paintandpaperlibrary.com Step into the autumn/winter collections, capturing fashions new mood for an expressive approach to everyday style Elevated skirt suits Pewter and tan print Liletta wool coat; matching Leyla skirt; charcoal and blue Imara wool bodysuit; all ULLA JOHNSON. Taupe Viv in The City D'Orsay suede shoes, RO New classics Black and red tulip motif lurex tweed jacket; matching lurex tweed skirt; beige linen gauze shirt; gold crystal earrings; black lambskin leather double-flap bag; black and white patent leather Mary Jane shoes; all CHANEL. Luxe leather Black and brown shearlinginsert leather jacket; black leather detail trousers; burgundy Express PM leather bag; red Luna leather shoes; all LOUIS VUITTON. Modern tailoring Blue-black brushed denim double-breasted jacket with leather trim; matching cigarette-leg trousers; blue micro-jacquard wool and silk knit; black ostrich shoes; all HERMÈS. Utility uniform Khaki cotton-blend military jacket; ginger cashmere T-shirt; chocolate wool plaid skirt; all CO. Taupe Viv in The City suede ballerina shoes; red Roseline leather bag; both ROGER VIVIER. In check Brown check Mourne wool blazer; matching Luna wool trousers; green and burgundy stripe Jonathan merino wool rugby shirt; rust Morray fair isle lambswool sweater; all MAGEE 1866. Intricate beadwork Black wool and cashmere crewneck sweater; pink poplin shirt; black satin embroidered skirt; semi-precious stone cufflinks; all PRADA. Crushed berry Boysenberry pink cashmere sweater; LUCY NAGLE. Blue and white stripe cotton shirt; black silk rosette skirt; snakeskin Maverick leather shoes; all VICTORIA BECKHAM. Crystal brooch, CHANEL. Photographed by Jack OConnor at See Management, assisted by Megan Collante and Tyler Wu. Styled FASHION CRAFTING At risk of extinction in an increasingly digital world, luxury fashion houses and young designers are putting traditional craftsmanship back in the spotlight By Rosa Abbott DIOR STANDING GROUND ROISIN PIERCE CHANEL F 50 September 2026 rom the equestrian hand-stitching on an the FUTURE finale, supermodel Kristen McMenamy sashayed through the Irish embassy in Paris in 15 metres of Carrickmacross lace. It reportedly took a team of 26 Monaghan-based artisans over nine months to create the gown, with ten hours of work required to produce just 20 centimetres. Speaking after ADVERTORIAL Living I The Dream What if you could own five beautiful homes across Europes finest destinations, with none of the hassle? Mallorca, Premium Collection. Mallorca, Signature Collection. f your idea of a holiday is a private villa rather than a luxury hotel, consider August Collection ADVERTORIAL Tuscany, Signature Collection. Paris, Pied À Terre Collection. Collections range from elegant city apartments in Paris, Rome and Barcelona to countryside villas and alpine chalets across Tuscany, the South of France, Mallorca and the French Alps each one a different way of experiencin FIRST PERSON a bed of Ones own Emboldened by distance and liberated from societal expectations, one writer found ways to make dating apps work for her but only once she became comfortable in her own independence By Shannon Murray 54 September 2026 FIRST PERSON L ast year an article in Vogue went viral when writer Chanté Joseph asked Is Having a Boyfriend Embarrassing Now? She proposed that young women were posting less boyfriend content on their social media, concluding that it was in part due to a shift in social engagement trends but also BOOKS Reading Notes The best new books to read this month By Sarah Halliwell T here are shelf-loads of exciting new books to light up the autumn, including Stations by Louise Kennedy, the return of Yellowface author, Rebecca F Kuang, and Liane Moriartys follow-up, Big Little Truths. There are al BOOKS On My Bedside Table MEG MASON New Zealand-born Masons Sorrow and Bliss (2021) became an international bestseller and prize-winner, was shortlisted for the Womens Prize and translated into 25 languages. A former journalist, Mason lives in Sydney. Her new novel, Sophie, Standing There (Bloomsbu IN CONVERSATION man clad in a suit winds his way down a lane, his arm around a woman in towering platform sandals. A young boy, just visible in the distance, is running ahead. The image has a subtle beauty; the protagonists are singer songwriter Nick Cave and his wife, Susie, model, muse and design IN CONVERSATION DOMINIQUE ISSERMANN I wanted this new chapter to feel slower, quieter, more personal. has graced multiple magazine and album covers (Glamour, Elle, i-D, The Damneds Phantasmagoria and The Best of Roxy Music). It was an extraordinary time, because fashion still felt very personal, ADVERTORIAL Design Week Dublin 16-20 September 2026 F ollowing the success of the inaugural event last year, Design Week Dublin (DWD), in partnership with Range Rover, returns from 16-20 September 2026. Founded by Jane and Sarah McDonnell, founders of THE GLOSS Magazine and THE GLOSS Interiors, ADVERTORIAL 18/09 17/09 DESIGN TALK: BRIAN WOULFE DESIGN PANELS, ROUND TABLES AND FASHION CONVERSATIONS ARCHITECT DIASPORA: IN PRACTICE OVERSEAS 16/09 at The Malt House: A chance to meet three Irish architects (above) succeeding on the global stage: John McElgunn (RSHP), Ronan Dunphy (Renzo Pian FOOD Recipe Notes Embracing food trends your own way By Kitty Coles O nce I cut up a perfectly good pair of jeans because the girls at the school down the road had all started wearing low-rise denim skirts. I desperately wanted to be one of those girls who could throw on a rara skirt, a giant gla Wine Notes The regions garnering attention now By Julie Dupouy E ach year, I set aside some time to reflect on the most memorable wines I have been fortunate enough to taste over the previous twelve months, whether through the incredible work of Irish wine importers or during my travels to vineyar FASHION Menswear Notes 1 2 N Get a head start on autumn By Aislinn Coffey 4 ew season, new look. The strongest autumn capsule wardrobes are built around a curated selection of versatile, interchangeable staples that can be mixed and matched with ease, taking you from casual weekends to smarter IN CONVERSATION Interview with a Man Line of Duty star Adrian Dunbar By Sarah Caden A How would you describe your parents? They were people who worked very hard, as well as being very loving and caring. There were seven kids, and I was the oldest. My father was a carpenter. He worked all the tim IN CONVERSATION IN CONVERSATION I did find that there were safe spaces, usually through music or amateur dramatics ... I gravitated towards the arts for that reason. Do you enjoy how your Northern Irish-isms have really caught the public imagination? Its pretty bonkers, isnt it? I just gave this g ADVERTORIAL The power of financial decade thinking THE GLOSS Goodbody Investment Club is helping women make more intentional financial decisions, one decade at a time Some of the strongest engagement has been around the very real, often under-discussed moments that can reshape a womans financial l TRAVEL Travel Notes I Stylish new stays in Scotland By Penny McCormick Hope, WildLand. f plaid, tartan, and checkerboard prints are trending this season, particularly when worn together (Chemena Kamalis AW26 collection for Chloé is a favourite), so too is Scotland, where a flurry of luxury hote IN CONVERSATION BEHIND the LENS The Irish photographers making waves on the international fashion stage By Penny McCormick JA CK IE K NIC ER SO N EIMEAR LY N C H It has been just 18 months since Jonathan Anderson took the helm at Dior and in that time it has felt like a watershed moment f IN CONVERSATION Andrew Nuding London-based Andrew Nudings cinematic fashion, portraiture and documentary photography has been commissioned for brands including Simone Rocha, Standing Ground and Moncler and publications such as British Vogue and Luncheon. Ive always had an interest in fashion. It IN CONVERSATION Eimear Lynch Eimear Lynchs work is known for capturing atmosphere and the nuances of youth culture She has collaborated with brands including Prada, Miu Miu, H&M and & Other Stories. Her work has been published in Dazed, The Face and W Magazine. I always wanted to do something in f ONE LAST THING The List Designer and founder of handbag label Liffner, Paulina Liffner von Sidow opens her little black book T LIFFNER The new collection is exclusive to Seagreen stores in Ireland. he designer whose work I endlessly admire ... Matthieu Blazy is the first designer ever to make m Official Weighted Combined WLTP Fuel Consumption figures for the Range Rover PHEV : 2.9-2.7 l/100km. Weighted Combined Utility Factor CO 2 . 66g/km-63g/km The figures provided are as a result of official manufacturers tests in accordance with EU legislation. For comparison purposes only. Real world