FOOD
Recipe Notes
Embracing food trends your own way
By Kitty Coles
O
nce I cut up a perfectly good pair of jeans because the girls at the school down the road had all
started wearing low-rise denim skirts. I desperately wanted to be one of those girls who could
throw on a rara skirt, a giant gladiator belt and a lace camisole and somehow look effortlessly
cool. Unfortunately, I lacked both the wardrobe and, more importantly, the confidence.
Back then, trends moved much more slowly. You spotted them in magazines, on television
or on someone walking down the high street. They drifted from city to city, school to school,
friend to friend. Food worked in much the same way. A recipe spread because someone cooked
it for a friend and wrote it down on a scrap piece of paper. A restaurant became known for one
dish. Now a salad using a whole cucumber goes viral online in America and, by dinner, people
in London, Dublin and Sydney are all slicing cucumbers the same way. Someone puts cottage
cheese on toast and supermarket shelves are empty by the weekend. Scroll Instagram and the
recipes begin to blur into one another.
The same has happened with the way food looks. A metal platter, once something youd only
really see in restaurant kitchens where meat or fish
rested before being plated, is now everywhere, layered
with crisps and caviar or jamón with pickled chillies
against a stainless steel surface. I went to a new café
that opened last week and I loved the interiors but,
apart from that, everything looked the same and could
have been anywhere in the world. The same sandwiches
wrapped in baking paper, the same Basque cheesecake
and matcha cookies. Everyone sat at their little stations
taking pictures of their matcha latte and pastry.
As a food writer I try to stay away from trends, but
there are some I cant help but try in my own way. Like Dubai chocolate. While I havent actually
tasted it (have you seen the price?), I knew Id love the flavour combination. If youve somehow
escaped it, its a thick milk chocolate bar filled with a rich pistachio cream and crisp toasted
kataifi pastry, inspired by the flavours of the classic Middle Eastern dessert knafeh. Originally
created by FIX Dessert Chocolatier in Dubai in 2021, its designed to be broken open, revealing
the vivid green filling inside. It quickly flooded TikTok feeds around the world.
Kataifi, or kadayif, is a delicate pastry made from fine, string-like threads of filo dough, used
all over Greece, Turkey and the Middle East in both sweet and savoury cooking. Its probably best
known as the pastry used in knafeh, where its layered over soft cheese or cream, baked until crisp
and finished with sugar syrup and pistachios. (Find it in most Turkish shops or online.)
So while I havent made Dubai chocolate, I have borrowed one small part of it. Not because
I wanted to recreate the trend, but because kataifi deserves a place far beyond the inside of a
chocolate bar. Ive written two recipes. The first is my four-ingredient tahini chocolate mousse
topped with toasted kataifi and a pistachio crumb. The second is a simple toasted kataifi with
whipped cream folded through yoghurt, topped with torn figs and a drizzle of lemon syrup.
Maybe thats the sweet spot with trends. Borrow the idea, not the outcome. Let them introduce
you to a new ingredient, a different technique or a flavour combination you might never have
thought of, then make it your own. Thats how good food has always evolved. Otherwise, we all
end up making the same things, eating the same lunch, in the same café. @kittycoles
Maybe that s the
sweet spot with
trends. Borrow
the idea, not
the outcome.
62 September 2026
Tahini Chocolate Mousse with Pistachio
Serves 4-6
Ingredients
150g good quality dark chocolate (70%) 4 medium eggs, separated
4 tbsp caster sugar or light brown sugar 4 tbsp good quality tahini
Pinch of sea salt. Topping: 150g kataifi pastry 50g butter 1 heaped
tbsp light brown sugar or caster sugar 50g pistachios, finely chopped
Method
1. Melt the chocolate in a heatproof bowl set over a pan of barely
simmering water, making sure the bowl doesnt touch the water. Remove
from the heat and leave to cool for a few minutes, then stir in the tahini
and a pinch of salt.
2. Separate the eggs. Whisk the egg whites until they form soft peaks,
then gradually add the sugar and continue whisking for another minute
until thick and glossy.
3. Stir the egg yolks into the chocolate mixture. If it seizes slightly,
dont worry. Stir in freshly boiled water, 1 tablespoon at a time, until the
mixture becomes smooth and glossy again.
4. Fold a generous spoonful of the whipped egg whites into the chocolate
mixture to loosen it. Gently fold through the remaining egg whites until no
streaks remain, taking care not to knock out too much air.
5. Divide between serving bowls or glasses and chill for at least 4 hours,
or overnight. When youre ready to serve, pull the kataifi apart into
shorter strands.
6. Melt the butter in a frying pan over a medium heat, add the kataifi and
sugar and cook, stirring regularly, for 8 to 10 minutes until evenly golden
and crisp. Tip onto a plate and leave to cool completely. Top each
mousse with a generous handful of toasted kataifi and the chopped
pistachios before serving.
Toasted Kataifi
Serves 4
Ingredients
150g kataifi pastry 50g butter 1 tablespoon of caster sugar 300ml
double cream 200g Greek yoghurt 2 tbsp icing sugar 4 ripe figs
Method
1. Heat the oven to 180C fan. Break the kataifi into short strands and
toss with the melted butter and sugar. Spread over a baking tray and
bake for 12-15 minutes, stirring halfway, until evenly golden and crisp.
Leave to cool completely. (Alternatively, toast in a pan until golden.)
2. Whip the cream to soft peaks, then gently fold through the Greek
yoghurt and icing sugar until just combined.
3. Tear the figs into bite-sized pieces.
4. Spoon the whipped yoghurt onto a serving platter or divide between
bowls. Pile over the toasted kataifi, scatter with the figs and drizzle
generously with the lemon syrup.
THE IRISH TIMES SEPTEMBER 2026 Autumns new mood Crafting the future + Susie Cave Maria Grachvogel Adrian Dunbar ww th w. eg los s.i e n o i h s E a f SU e h t
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