WORKING LIFE arm themselves with degrees and training. They must learn the manners and mores of the inner circle. And the inner circle is most emphatically upper middle class. Molloys plan for rescuing working women by showing them the right and wrong ways to dress was to create for them a business uniform. The right One of the first women to be admitted to the uniform would protect and floor of the London Stock Exchange in 1973. legitimise them. There was nothing morally wrong with a polyester pantsuit he wrote, but it was going to tell the world that you were not of the upper middle class. The imitation man look, he noted, merely made you look like a small boy. A jacket was always to be full cut so as not to outline the bust. Materials were to be wool and linen; patterns, solids, tweeds, and plaid. A designers name visibly displayed on a piece of clothing made you look like a lightweight, more interested in form than substance. The ideal business uniform Irish woman Oonah Keogh, was a skirted suit with a blouse one of the worlds first female in a contrasting colour from the stockbrokers in the 1920s. suit. Even as Molloy saw himself a champion for this new breed of women, he stumbled on his own sexism: despite the rhetoric of the feminist movement, he declared, many women, including businesswomen, continue to view themselves as sex objects. He wanted to see women cover up, to hide not only their backgrounds but also their bodies; just as Maria Marsala had been told to cover up. Some objected. A review in the Wall Street Journal suggested that Molloy was wrong as well as offensive: Molloy seeks to neuterise women, trading sex appeal for authority. He strips them of colour (he outlaws purple and gold because they symbolise the middle class), of sweaters (they spell secretary) and skirts without jackets (its a flag of failure for the businesswoman). Molloy even advises women to hang neuter art in their offices. Yet while some were up in arms over his advice, 1970s working women were taking it seriously, rushing out to buy suits in understated colours and accessories that simulated upper-class tastes such as silver and gold pens (never Biros!), pumps over stilettos, and leather briefcases with dial locks. Molloy received the most pushback for his rule that women never wear boots to the office, but he insisted that the research bore this out: If two women walk into an office, one wearing boots and the other plain pumps, the one with pumps will always be judged more efficient and businesslike. Yet he was forced to admit that clothes could not single-handedly destroy presumptions and prejudices. He wrote that women, by existing as women, automatically received second-class treatment everywhere they went and from everyone they met, from hotel employees, store clerks, receptionists, telephone operators, doctors, and bureaucrats. He confessed he was no different when he waited impatiently for a meeting with a group of executives, assuming they were men, when all along they had been sitting right there: Three of the best and most conservatively dressed women I had ever met. They were following his guidelines to a tee and yet that was not enough to identify them as successful professional women, even to the man who insisted he had discovered the magic formula of an understated double-breasted beige suit! It was no coincidence that in 1977, the same year that Molloys bestseller came out, Marilyn Loden coined the term glass ceiling. She was working in human resources 22 November 2024 THE GLOSS MAGAZINE In 1988, Louise Jones became the youngest woman to own a seat on the New York Stock Exchange. Head of Wealth Advisory at Goodbody, Michelle OKeefe (centre), recounts how she was a runner at the Irish Stock Exchange in the 1990s. THE IDEAL BUSINESS UNIFORM WAS A SKIRTED SUIT WITH A BLOUSE IN A CONTRASTING COLOUR. in the telecoms industry, where she was constantly reminded by her boss to smile more, and where shed been passed up for a promotion more than once because it needed to go to a family man. She first uttered the phrase glass ceiling while sitting on a conference panel listening to other women attempt to find reasons, including their own failings, for why they were not getting past the middle-management level. Unable to sit there and listen to the self-flagellation any longer, she interjected to say that she believed there was an invisible glass ceiling, a ceiling that was cultural and not personal. Yet Molloys advice was personal: you could only have a chance of breaking through the glass ceiling by disguising your modest class background. Even in a chapter called Dressing to Attract Men, devoted to time off from the office, Molloy insisted that his research showed that when men saw a woman for only a split second, be it a fleeting reflection in a shop window or a revolving glass door, they had no idea what the woman looked like but they were sure they could identify her socio-economic status. But hiding or compensating for ones modest background was a lot more complex than Molloys book suggested, especially when you added race, which he failed to address. It did little to help Lillian Hobson, the very first Black woman to enroll in the Harvard Business School in 1967. Later offered a job as a retail broker at a small and women-friendly brokerage house, it was an uphill battle for her to drum up business. When she asked the two other female brokers how they had built their clientele base, they said theyd first sold stocks to their circle of friends and family. But Lillian was from rural Ballsville, Virginia, where no one was looking to get into the stock market. Molloys The Womans Dress for Success Book was in many ways a manual for passing, a guide on how to come off as if youd been born with a silver spoon in your mouth. But there was just so much a beige suit fitted correctly around the bust line could do if you were a Black woman in the 1970s trying to climb that ladder. Yet a few years later, at the start of the 1980s, Marianne Spraggins, a law professor to whom Wall Street suddenly beckoned, counselled a fellow trainee at Salomon Brothers. This young woman had arrived on the first day with an Afro and in a hippie vest but within a week had transformed herself, straightening her hair and donning a pinstripe suit. Marianne told her there was no point. For Black women, she said, blending in wasnt even a possibility and so why pretend? Marianne had created her own uniform, which she would wear defiantly throughout her rise through Wall Street: a blazing red suit and high heels. She Wolves: The Untold History of Women on Wall Street by Paulina Bren (John Murray), is out now. COMFORT FOOD & COSY PUBS / WEARING IRISH / SIPPING REDS / NEW SHOPS ON THE BLOCK / SOLO TRAVEL / BOOKS OF THE MONTH MAGAZINE NOVEMBER 2024 with THE IRISH TIMES ww w. t ss.ie o l g he Rock steady in an unstable world Fashion at work + BE MORE INTERESTING Designers & their desks CONTENTS IN THIS ISSUE THE GLOSS MONTHLY REMINDER SIGN UP to receive a monthly reminder by email when THE GLOSS is out so that you never miss an issue. Simply register your details on WWW.THEGLOSS.IE. PU B LI S H E R JANE M C D ONNE LL EDITOR SARAH MC DONNEL L D EP UT Y ED IT OR S Í O MHA CO N GLOSSIP Gloss~ip! HAPPY BIRTHDAY! Counting candles Celebrate yourself this month ... KHAN Deryn Mackay founded her Blackrock boutique 30 years ago. Stop by for Paul Smith, Dorothee Schumacher and Róisín Linnane. PLAYING OUTDOORS: In Kindred of Irelands wool coat with golden beetled leather flow The Spencer Twins wear Over The Moon FASHION Spot The Trend 2 1 Start layering with different textures, says Aislinn Coffey @BLAZE_MILANO 3 6 4 5 7 8 9 ADDED INTEREST This season, texture and layering are the twin styling tools to tap into to modernise your look. If you have hang-ups about how textures dont go together, drop Photos by Flavien Carlod and Baptiste Le Quiniou, for advertising purposes only. Éditions Zulma. French Ar t de Vivre Love. Curved sofas, designed by Sacha Lakic. Myrtéa & Yin Yang. Armchair and ottomans, designed by Sacha Lakic. Nonette. Floor lamps, designed by Cédric Ragot. DUBLIN 18 Beacon So MOODBOARD 7 November Mood Rocksteady by Susan Zelouf 3 8 1. IM ROCKING a scorpion brooch in rock crystal, coral, diamond-tipped stinger & claws. www.vhernier.it. Santa? 2. IM CHANNELING my inner Blondie in a Rockstar cashmere sweater. www.sphereone.ie. 4 3. IM COLLECTING poetic pieces by Iris A N Y W H E RE, A N Y TIM E . F O PE PH OTO GR A PH E D BY TH O M A S LO H R F O PE .CO M Two Turtle Doves Swans a-Swimming Gifts a Gifting at Fashion Notes MICHAEL KORS TIBI FASHION ZIMMERMANN MISSONI Jeans can be office-worthy, says Aislinn Coffey 1 STYLING TIPS Desk to dinner in denim FEDERICA TOSI IMAXTREE VICT ORIA BECK HAM Transform your look for the evening by swapping out a shirt or knit for a silk blouse or sleek bod ADVERTORIAL Q&A At Close Range Y Interview with Amanda Bone, Architect our favourite virtue I find it difficult to pinpoint just one my three favourites are kindness, fairness, and thoughtfulness. Your favourite qualities in a man/woman I feel uncomfortable making a distinction between men an CONQUEST BARBARA PALVIN WORKING LIFE Marilyn Neckes, a stockbroker for LF Rothschild in New York City in 1984. Glass Ceilings and Beige Suits They broke down the doors of Wall Streets old boys club, finding a foothold in small brokerage houses before making their way into investment banks and exchange floors. But first, WORKING LIFE arm themselves with degrees and training. They must learn the manners and mores of the inner circle. And the inner circle is most emphatically upper middle class. Molloys plan for rescuing working women by showing them the right and wrong ways to dress was to create for them a business 25 Rockhill, Blackrock, Co Dublin 01 9631383 info@rockhillinteriors.com www.rockhillinteriors.com ADVERTORIAL LANE 7 CHRISTMAS STARTS HERE JAMIES ITALIAN THE FLYING DUCK A visit to Dundrum Town Centre for shopping and fun should be at the top of your Christmas List ... A ll of us have things we love to do in the run-up to Christmas every year, traditions without which we would feel a littl SINEAD KEARY ADVERTORIAL 3 2 HOBBS 1 4 V MINT VEL ISABEL MARANT AT BROWN THOMAS ET 7 5 CULT GAIA AT BROWN THOMAS THE GIFTS WED LIKE TO GET! LO VIS A 6 8 9 10 11 DUNNES STORES RIVER ISLAND KENNETH JAY LANE AT HARVEY NICHOLS Ask a group of glossy magazine editors what theyd like to r LIOSA MC NAMARA FIRST PERSON RUNNING for HER life Nicola Hanney recounts the traumatic years she spent suffering abuse at the hands of disgraced Garda Paul Moody, all the while battling recurring cancer and caring for her young son W hen he opened the door back into his home that night, Paul ki Give the gift of luxury The perfect gift for theatre lovers. Members enjoy the finest pre-show dining followed by world-class performances in the elegance and comfort of Circle Club. Email membership@bgetheatre.ie for more information. FIRST PERSON crawled up into my cheeks. My legs felt weak. It was the effect of the chemotherapy. I went to the bathroom and splashed cold water on my face. I was going to throw up, so I slid down onto my knees and waited. My medication was in the fridge. It would settle my stomach and relieve my p NEPAPERY ODHIANG AWAR ODHIANG DRESS 49.99 AVAILABLE AT HM.COM TRENDS FASHION Softly, softly SPHERE ONEs knitwear is spun from the finest four-ply cashmere from Italian master Loro Piana, ensuring pieces like this Drama Series oversized polo-neck sweater, 910, will feel incredibly luxurious and last for years. www.sphereone.ie. Isle Style Black Wexford wool N OTH IN G BU T A DOT, A S U R FACE, A K N O B. Introducing the Essential Induction. Less for a life of more. The dif ference is Gaggenau. gaggenau.com/ie TRENDS FASHION HOT STRIPES Colourful, effortless and edgy are three words that describe LAURA CHAMBERS eponymous Irish knitwear label, which launched in 2016. Designed using the finest four-ply cashmere from Scottish spinners Todd and Duncan, hand-loomed in Dublin by a team of expert knitters, each What makes a design last generations? Is it exceptional craftsmanship? Is it honest materials? Is it timeless design? For us, its all of these. Thats what makes a Neptune home. Kitchens Furniture Accessories Lighting Paint Design services Dublin Kildare Kilkenny Limerick Mayo Meath Wicklow neptune.c Love every room Castlebellingham, Co. Louth sales@oconnorsofdrumleck.ie +353 (0) 42 937 2625 oconnorsofdrumleck.ie BEAUTY Beauty Notes CHANEL SS25 News & views, by Sarah Halliwell A TRIED & TESTED: AQUA, STILLORGAN, CO DUBLIN With age, we tend to use our muscles less frequently, causing the skin to lose its tone and contours to slacken, says Michelle Casey who founded Aqua salon in 1999. Michelle is a firm b CHRISTMAS BY festive FAVOURITE STAY SPA DINE GOLF galgorm.com WELLNESS FOOD Escapada, Mallorca. Dearbhla Glynn. Restful escapes If you are weary, a winter wellbeing reset might be just what the doctor orders, says Sarah Halliwell W ere looking beyond the dark days of November, and planning something to look forward to, post-hibernation. A few days away, INTERVIEW WITH A MAN Lasting Luxury Premium, Eco-friendly, Elegant Our candle tins: Luxury for you, sustainability for the earth. Designed for both beauty and sustainability, our tins are the perfect blend of eco-conscious luxury. Tin, one of the most recyclable and non-toxic materials on Earth, e 25 Rockhill, Blackrock, Co Dublin 01 9631383 info@rockhillinteriors.com www.rockhillinteriors.com N G I E S A of THS E M I T N MA ST U FA LL IKA NDE N O O ER EC Y V ERIN B D TH HE AP BY CA R D OG OT TYLE PH S N ork w t ty a l good, i l a rson you fee g e p ur ake o nin y e s v m s e e r o at Exp thes th rning t o o in cl from m Commuter style Brown check wool mix trench coat, 155; camel knit Suitable attire Chocolate brown houndstooth check blazer, 190.95; matching mini skirt, 97.15; both Reiss; chocolate brown polo-neck sweater, from a selection, at Johnstons of Elgin; burgundy patent bag, 77, at Dune London; burgundy tights, from a selection, at Wolford; all at KILDARE VILLAGE, Nurney Creative type Multicoloured patchwork knit tank top, Gant, 140; mustard pinstripe blouse, 187; mustard trousers, 150; both LK Bennett; burgundy patent slingback shoes, Dune London, 77; all at KILDARE VILLAGE. Tortoiseshell spectacles, Tom Ford, at The Optical Shop, 10 Rockhill, Blackrock, Co Dublin. Polished professional Camel double-face wool belted coat, Aspesi, 895; black cashmere polo-neck sweater, 495; black brocade skirt, Róisín Linnane, 595; all at KHAN, Rockhill, Blackrock, Co Dublin. Tortoiseshell spectacles, Celine, at The Optical Shop, as before. Black leather handbag, Coccinelle, 32 Work from home Turquoise herringbone tweed wool coat, Avoca Mill Collection, 495; multicoloured stripe mohair cardigan, Pieces, 49.95; blue denim jumpsuit, Atelier Reve, 189.95; all at AVOCA. Brown suede loafers, 70, at Marks & Spencer. BEAUTY NOTE: Light up the skin using a golden bronze powder suc Earn your stripes Cornflower blue stripe shirt, 47.50; navy pinstripe waistcoat, 49; matching pinstripe trousers, 55; burgundy patent slingback loafers, 77; all at MARKS & SPENCER. HAIR NOTE: Use Redken Wax Blast to create a healthy sheen on smoothed-back hair, and to lock the style into place. Easy elegance Black and white houndstooth tweed coat, 975; teal V-neck wool sweater, 125; both at MAGEE 1866, 21-26 South Anne Street, Dublin 2. White cotton T-shirt, 42; black wide-leg trousers, 65; black patent brogues, 49; all at Marks & Spencer. Black sunglasses, Celine, at The Optical Shop, as Print version Camel Adriana wool coat 1,895; leopard-print Amanda double georgette silk blouse, 995; black cigarette-leg trousers, 795; black The Louise croc-embossed leather crossbody handbag, 1,495; all at LOUISE KENNEDY, 56 Merrion Square, Dublin 2. Black patent slingback shoes, Dune London, 77, Party ready Duck egg blue pleated bow balloon top, 1,475; matching lace-trim slip skirt, 500; matching organza overskirt, 820; silver leather shoes, from a selection; all Simone Rocha at HAVANA, Donnybrook, Dublin 4. After hours Black halter-neck top with ostrich feathers, 1,695; black chiffon wide-leg trousers, 1,695; both at LOUISE KENNEDY, 56 Merrion Square, Dublin 2. Black patent slingback shoes, Dune London, 77, as before. BEAUTY NOTE: Define brows with a tint and reshape at Brown Sugar, South William Stree Black tie affair Black crepe evening gown, 975; black floral corsage, 80; both ANDTATE BY SHARON HOEY, at 6 Merrion Street Lower, Dublin 2. Black slingback shoes, Dune London, 77, as before. BEAUTY NOTE: Eyes are the focus here. Colour lashes in the shade of the season, with Maybelline Sky High mas THE GLOSS GALA In association with NOVEMBER 27 2024 RDS, DUBLIN 4 UT O D L SO On November 27, THE GLOSS GALA, in association with Goodbody, the most fun, inspiring and elegant evening networking event in Ireland, will be attended by more than 1,600 women from all walks of business life. The theme BOOKS Reading Notes Edel Coffey selects books for winter reading A s the nights draw in, my reading habits tend to get a little darker too. A new novel from superb mystery writer Jane Casey is just the thing for the encroaching winter chill. While fans of Caseys brilliant Detective Maeve Kerriga BOOKS ROYALLY GOOD READS As Jilly Coopers Rivals gets a long-overdue modern-day adaptation courtesy of Disney+, we are in the mood for some aristocratic reads. Charlotte Cootes interior design book The Flower Room is a beautiful guide to creating interiors inspired by nature. It covers colour, patt TRAVEL Travel Notes Penny McCormick on solo sojourns The Lobby. The Residents Bar. A Garden Wing suite. The indoor-outdoor pool in the spa. CHECKING IN: CASHEL PALACE HOTEL, CO TIPPERARY Table for one at Cliff at Lyons, Co Kildare. A recent survey conducted by Hastings Hotels revealed that TRAVEL Culloden Estate & Spa. ON MY RADAR: GRAND CENTRAL HOTEL, BELFAST: For catching up on some shuteye, the Perfect Nights Sleep package is a soporific combo of the Grand Centrals famous cloud beds, wool pillows, gorgeous bedlinen from Vision Linens, pillow spray (a collaboration with Irish well FOOD [Lochmuller], however, have their names all over the book and are doing the press for it. Clever, really, as there are four of them to share the load instead of just one. Two (or four) heads are better than one, after all. Yotam, Helen, Verena, and Tara (the Four Hungries), each bring their ow FOOD HELENS BOLOGNESE Serves 4 75ml peanut oil 1 onion, finely diced (180g) 1 large carrot, peeled and finely diced (125g) 1 celery stick, finely diced (75g) 2 star anise 1 cinnamon stick 2 bay leaves 1 1/2 tsp Sichuan peppercorns, roughly crushed in a pestle and mortar 1 tsp fennel seeds, DINING Restaurant Notes Ciara McQuillan finds cosy pubs to hide out in VAUGHANS ANCHOR INN, LISCANNOR, CO CLARE: THE AMBIANCE Dont be fooled, a visit to Clare should not just be a summer expedition. I can think of nowhere better to spend a rainy afternoon than perched fireside at Vaughans in Lisc WINE Rich Rhônes Julie Dupouy sips from the Southern Rhône Valley I love all wine styles but my decision on what to drink is highly influenced by the time of the year. As the weather gets colder, typically into November, my goo for rich, smooth, comforting and savoury reds powers back into the l ADVERTORIAL NOVEMBER NOTE Remember to treat yourself at Butlers SEASONS TREATINGS This November, at Butlers Chocolate Cafés, enjoy seasonal hot chocolates in two delicious new flavours (Crème Brûlée and Winter Spiced) in addition to a festive Gingerbread Latte. ADVENT CALENDAR Bespoke Gifting, On INTERVIEW WITH A MAN A lot of people go around screaming their beliefs to the world these days, expecting everyone around them to contort themselves to their template ... DONAL RYAN From the Heart Donal Ryan was born in Co Tipperary and worked as a civil servant before committing to writing. His ADVERTORIAL INTERVIEW WITH A MAN INTERVIEW WITH A MAN YOU LECTURE AT THE UNIVERSITY OF LIMERICK IN ENGLISH & CREATIVE WRITING. DOES IT MATTER TO YOU TO ALSO HAVE A PROPER JOB? On the menu at The Coach House: hearty dishes, fine wines and local cider, soft beds upstairs and a warm and convivial at BEST SHOPS BEST SHOPS 2024 The Garden New Mill, Mill Street, Dublin 8. Following the success of his gorgeous flower shop in the Powerscourt Centre, Connemara man Mark Grehan opened a second location earlier this year. Creating wild and sculptural hand-tied bouquets and arrangements, the new store THIS GLOSSY LIFE PRINCESS MARIE-CHANTAL OF GREECE Designer ON WORK: I started my childrenswear brand, MarieChantal, in 2000 while I was pregnant with my third child. It was a juggle at the beginning, balancing work and raising my children one of them was undoubtedly late for drop-off but I have a THIS GLOSSY LIFE This Glossy Life AT YOUR DESK An inspiring work space ignites creativity. We asked five designers what they surround themselves with while working ANYA HINDMARCH Accessories Designer SYSTEMS JUST MAKE ME FEEL IN CONTROL WHEN LIFE FEELS OUT OF CONTROL. ON WORK: Our office is in THIS GLOSSY LIFE ON WORK: I work in a studio in North London with my small, brilliant team. I enjoy working with other people. Each person brings a particular point of view when shaping our collections. [Bella Freud recently had a sell-out collaboration with M&S]. The studio is full of things in va THIS GLOSSY LIFE Desk ESSENTIALS 1 3 2 4 I FIND INSPIRATION EVERYWHERE, I AM IN RECEIVE MODE ALL THE TIME. 5 1. Black gel ink pen, 3.50; www.muji.ie. 2. Black mechanical pencil, Bic, 6.50; www.penstore.ie. 3. 1970 candle, Bella Freud, 56.50; www.cultbeauty.com. 4. Postalco notepad, 25; www.mi ENVIRONMENT A Drop in The Ocean Holly Hughes on the silent victim of armed conflict T his year, we have witnessed unspeakable conflict ravage the world, from the ongoing invasion of Ukraine to the genocide in Gaza, the ensuing conflict in Lebanon and Iran, and Sudans brutal civil war. If the inc Siemens Home Appliances 45% * BSH Group is a Trademark Licensee of Siemens AG ace more sp Discover our new XXL built-in fridge freezer Need help choosing your kitchen appliances? Visit our Home of Innovation Dublin Showroom, we also offer video and phone consultations. 01 4009800 ext. 3 homeof Chandelier by Philippe Parreno