FOOD
HELENS BOLOGNESE
Serves 4
75ml peanut oil 1 onion, finely diced (180g)
1 large carrot, peeled and finely diced (125g)
1 celery stick, finely diced (75g) 2 star anise
1 cinnamon stick 2 bay leaves 1 1/2 tsp Sichuan
peppercorns, roughly crushed in a pestle and mortar
1 tsp fennel seeds, roughly crushed in a pestle and
mortar 500g minced pork (or beef, or a mixture of
both) 3 garlic cloves, crushed 40g ginger, peeled
and finely chopped 2 tbsp Shaoxing wine 100g
doubanjiang (chilli bean paste) 50ml light soy sauce
310ml water 1 tbsp cornflour 7 spring onions,
finely sliced (75g) 360g dried pappardelle Dressed
cucumbers 1 large cucumber, cut into thin batons
(310g) 2 tbsp rice wine vinegar 1 tsp runny honey
1 tsp sesame oil salt
To serve
5g coriander leaves, roughly torn 1 tbsp toasted
sesame seeds
PUTTANESCA-STYLE SALMON BAKE
Serves 4
200g fine green beans, trimmed 6 spring
onions (75g) cut widthways into thirds 200g
mixed cherry tomatoes, halved 6 skin-on salmon
fillets (about 720g) Salt and black pepper
For the tomato anchovy oil
85ml olive oil 8 anchovies, finely chopped (25g)
2 tbsp tomato paste 1 tsp chilli flakes 2 tsp
coriander seeds, lightly bashed in a mortar
8 garlic cloves, very thinly sliced 2 preserved
lemons, flesh and pips discarded, skin finely
chopped (20g) 2 tsp maple syrup
For the salsa
60g pitted Kalamata olives, halved 60g
capers, roughly chopped 1 preserved lemon,
flesh and pips discarded, skin thinly sliced (10g)
10g basil leaves, roughly chopped 10g parsley
leaves, roughly chopped 2 tbsp olive oil
2 tsp lemon juice
1. First make the tomato anchovy oil. Put the oil,
anchovies and tomato paste into a small sauté
pan and place on a medium heat. Once the
mixture starts to simmer, cook for 5 minutes,
stirring from time to time. Add the chilli flakes
and coriander seeds and cook for another minute,
until fragrant. Remove from the heat and add the
garlic, preserved lemon and maple syrup. Stir to
combine, then set aside to cool.
2. Preheat the oven to 220C fan.
3. Place the beans, spring onions and tomatoes
on a large, parchment-lined baking tray. Drizzle
over 3 tablespoons of the tomato anchovy oil,
along with 1/4 teaspoon of salt and a good grind
of pepper. Toss to combine and place in the oven
for 1213 minutes, until the beans and tomatoes
are starting to soften and taking on a little colour.
4. Meanwhile, arrange the salmon fillets on a plate
and drizzle the remaining tomato anchovy oil (as
well as all the solids) evenly over the fillets.
5. Once the beans and tomatoes have had their
time in the oven, nestle the salmon fillets among
them and bake for a further 8 minutes. Set aside
for 5 minutes, out of the oven, to rest.
6. Mix all the ingredients for the salsa in a small
bowl and season with a good grind of pepper.
Spoon half the salsa over the salmon and serve
the fish warm (or at room temperature, which
works just as well), with the rest of the salsa in a
bowl on the side.
1. Put the oil into a medium saucepan, for which
you have a lid, and place on a medium-high heat.
Once hot, add the onion, carrot, celery, star anise,
cinnamon stick and bay leaves. Cook for 5 minutes,
stirring frequently, then add the Sichuan peppercorns
and fennel seeds. Cook for another 5 minutes, stirring
from time to time, until the vegetables take on some
colour. Take the pan off the heat and, using a slotted
spoon, transfer the vegetables to a plate, leaving
behind the oil and any sediments.
2. Keep the pan on a medium-high heat and add the
meat, garlic and ginger. Cook for 57 minutes, stirring
from time to time, until the meat is lightly browned.
Add the Shaoxing wine, cook for a minute, then add
the doubanjiang, soy sauce and 250ml of water. Stir
to combine, partially cover, and simmer on a mediumlow heat for 25 minutes, stirring from time to time.
3. While the meat sauce is simmering, mix the
cornflour with the remaining 60ml of water and
set aside.
4. Return the cooked vegetables to the sauce, along
with the spring onions and the cornflour slurry.
Simmer for 5 minutes, uncovered.
5. Meanwhile, place all the ingredients for the dressed
cucumbers in a small bowl. Add 1/4 teaspoon of salt,
mix to combine and set aside.
6. Cook the pappardelle in salted boiling water until
al dente, then divide between four bowls. Ladle over
the meat sauce and top with some of the dressed
cucumbers. Finish with the coriander and sesame
seeds and serve, with the remaining cucumbers
on the side.
VERENAS POTATO SALAD
Serves 4
500g Pink Fir or Charlotte (or other waxy)
potatoes 75ml olive oil 1 small onion, finely
chopped (125g) 1 garlic clove, crushed 175ml
chicken stock 2 tsp Dijon mustard 2 tbsp
apple cider vinegar 1 1/2 tsp black peppercorns,
coarsely crushed in a pestle and mortar 15g
chives: 10g finely chopped and 5g cut into 1 1/2
cm lengths 75g pack of diced smoked pancetta
1 tsp paprika 1/4 cucumber, sliced lengthways,
deseeded and cut into 1/2cm dice (100g) salt
1. Put the potatoes into a medium saucepan, for
which you have a lid. Add just enough water to
cover, salt generously and place on a mediumhigh heat. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat
to medium-low and cook, covered, for 2025
minutes, until just tender. Drain and, once cool
enough to handle, remove the skins from the
potatoes and slice into 1/2 cm-thick rounds. Set
aside in a medium bowl.
2. Put 2 tablespoons of the oil into a medium
sauté pan and place on a medium heat. Add
the onion and cook for 1215 minutes, stirring
regularly, until caramelised. Add the garlic and
stock, bring to a simmer, then remove from the
heat. Add the mustard, vinegar, 1 1/4 teaspoons of
salt, the pepper and another 2 tablespoons of oil.
Whisk to combine, then pour the mixture over the
potatoes. Mix gently but thoroughly: it will look
wet (and some of the potatoes will break up), but
this is normal. Set aside for about 2 hours, for the
potatoes to soak up about half the broth, and
then stir in the finely chopped chives.
3. Meanwhile, wipe clean the sauté pan and
place on a medium-high heat. Add the pancetta,
reduce the heat to medium-low and cook for
1012 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the
pancetta is crispy. Using a slotted spoon, transfer
to a plate lined with kitchen paper leave about
1 tablespoon of the fat in the pan and set aside.
Once cool, finely chop the pancetta into crumbs.
4. Add the remaining tablespoon of oil to the
fat in the pan, along with the paprika. Stir for 30
seconds or so, until fragrant, then remove from
the heat.
5. When ready to serve, fold the cucumber into
the potato salad and transfer to a serving plate.
Scatter over the pancetta crumbs, along with the
cut chives. Spoon over the paprika oil and serve.
THE GLOSS MAGAZINE November 2024 61
COMFORT FOOD & COSY PUBS / WEARING IRISH / SIPPING REDS / NEW SHOPS ON THE BLOCK / SOLO TRAVEL / BOOKS OF THE MONTH MAGAZINE NOVEMBER 2024 with THE IRISH TIMES ww w. t ss.ie o l g he Rock steady in an unstable world Fashion at work + BE MORE INTERESTING Designers & their desks
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FOOD HELENS BOLOGNESE Serves 4 75ml peanut oil 1 onion, finely diced (180g) 1 large carrot, peeled and finely diced (125g) 1 celery stick, finely diced (75g) 2 star anise 1 cinnamon stick 2 bay leaves 1 1/2 tsp Sichuan peppercorns, roughly crushed in a pestle and mortar 1 tsp fennel seeds,
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