STAYCATIONS Skys the limit Look at the stars, see how they shine for you with our guide to Irelands dark skies, writes Domhnall ODonoghue O scar Wilde once mused that everyone was in the gutter, but the lucky among us had our gaze fixed firmly on the stars. And as an Irishman, the witty scribe knew a thing or two about the magnificence of our skyscape. In fact, our Stone Age masterpiece, Newgrange, whose passage and chamber are aligned with the rising sun around the winter solstice, is one of many reminders that the Irish people have long maintained strong celestial connections. Today, the island of Ireland holds a trio of Dark Sky accreditations: Kerry International Dark Sky Reserve, Mayo Dark Sky Park and Tyrones OM Dark Sky Park and Observatory. This coveted status, which recognises the absence of light pollution in their night skies, was achieved through years of careful monitoring. To the delight of rural communities, Irelands astro-tourism is seeing a surge in interest, not only at these three locations but also in remote spots across the island, especially between September and April when nights are longest and darkest. As a bonus, our northerly position means that during periods of strong solar activity, stargazers might even glimpse the aurora borealis. Plan your observing session because knowing which planets, meteor showers or nebulae are visible is key, Caoimhe Lyons from Blackrock Castle Observatory suggests. She also recommends finding out what the moon is up to, as its light can obstruct your view of the stars and other objects in the sky. Software like Stellarium is brilliant for mapping what will be in the sky, Caoimhe adds. Binoculars and small telescopes can go a long way if you get your timing right. Also, being somewhere elevated or on a beach means its less likely that trees, buildings or other structures will obstruct your view. Whether youre an expert stargazer or a novice, or are simply drawn to these sanctuaries of tranquillity to escape the chaos of modern life, this guide offers insights into the best places to witness the wonders overhead. And despite Mr Wildes claims, none of them involves any gutters. 12 September 2026 Kerry International Dark Sky Reserve In 2014, South Kerry became the first place in the Northern Hemisphere to be designated a Gold Tier International Dark Sky Reserve. In addition to a coastline of cliffs, coves and beaches, the reserve extends inland to Ballaghisheen, with many archaeological sites scattered across the landscape. Standing alongside a Neolithic or Bronze Age site on a starry night offers the perfect way to connect with our ancestors. Constellations closest to the Pole Star, such as Ursa Major and its wellknown asterism, the Plough, are visible all year round here. Orion, the iconic constellation, is visible from late September to April, and in the summer, the Milky Way dazzles. Kerry Dark Sky Tourism participates in several events throughout the year, including the Skellig Coast Archaeology Festival in October and Heritage Week in August. kerrydarkskytourism.com Local Intel: The Kerry Dark Sky Reserve feels far from a city and closer to the stars, says archaeologist Aoibheann Lambe, co-owner of Kerry Dark Sky Tourism, which offers stargazers immersive astronomy and heritage experiences. It reminds us that we are tiny and part of something greater than ourselves. We are, after all, made of stardust. The dark skies connect us to everyone, past and present, who has ever looked up. Recommended Viewing Spots: 1. Derrynane Beach 2. Com an Chiste (Coomakista) 3. Castlecove 4. St Finians Bay 5. Staigue Fort 6. Valentia Island Where to Stay: The historic Royal Valentia hotel is a convenient base. Their Dark Skies Package runs on selected dates from October to March. royalvalentia.ie Where to Eat: For over 60 years, Watervilles family-run Lobster Restaurant and Bar has been impressing travellers on the Ring of Kerry with awardwinning seafood. thelobsterwaterville.com By Day: Located on Valentia Island, the Skellig Experience Visitor Centre is dedicated to the Unesco World Heritage Site of Skellig Michael. Alongside boat tours (weather permitting), the centre brings the magic and mystery of these famous rocks to life through film presentations, reconstructions and soundscapes. skelligexperience.com Mayo Dark Sky Park As the sun fades, Wild Nephin National Park transforms into Mayo Dark Sky Park, where views of the Milky Way, meteor showers, planets, stars and, on occasion, the aurora borealis await. The site, named International Dark Sky Place of the Year in 2024, is free to access at any time. There are also exhibits to admire at the Ballycroy Visitor Centre. Wild Nephin National Park is twinned with Yosemite National Park, and they have extended this connection to protect their nocturnal nightscapes and biodiversity under the tagline, Two parks, one sky. At different times throughout the year, the park hosts free events, including weekly walks. The annual Mayo Dark Sky Festival is soon to celebrate its tenth anniversary, with an exciting programme of events running on October 30th and November 1st. Other meteor showers include the Geminids in December and the Lyrids in April. mayodarkskypark.ie Local Intel: Mayo is working towards becoming an International Dark Sky Reserve, which will encompass the whole county, further protecting the dark sky park as its core and darkest centre, says Georgia MacMillan, Mayo Dark Sky Park development officer. The future reserve will provide ABOVE: The Ceoldán statue at Om Dark Sky Park & Obseratory. BELOW: Dunsink Observatory, Castleknock, Co Dublin. Photo:Anthony Lynch further access to peripheral sites across the county, including the north coast of Mayo for the aurora views, and island communities such as Inishturk at the edge of the Atlantic. Recommended Viewing Spots 1. Ballycroy Visitor Centre 2. Claggan Mountain Coastal Trail car park 3. Letterkeen Trail Head Where to Stay: A short drive from Ballycroy Visitor Centre is the four-star Mulranny Park Hotel, a favourite with locals and tourists alike, thanks in part to its majestic views of Clew Bay. mulrannyparkhotel.ie Where to Eat: Ginger and Wild is a light and airy café next to the Ballycroy Visitor Centre. The homemade food is crafted from locally sourced produce and its gallery showcases Irish artwork. gingerandwild.com By Day: The Céide Fields Neolithic Site contains the worlds oldest known stone-walled fields, dating back nearly 6,000 years. OM Dark Sky Park and Observatory OM Dark Sky Park and Observatory, the only one of its kind in Northern Ireland, is a truly special destination for stargazers. Its name honours the sound of the universe while also referencing Ogham, our ancient alphabet, both of which perfectly encapsulate a visit here; connections to our past and present abound. OM organises events all year round, depending on what the night sky reveals. They offer hands-on telescope sessions as well as naked-eye observing. Local Intel: STAYCATIONS September 2026 Gods own dining spaces Sensational destinations that put dining experiences at the heart of your Irish staycation Pages 28 and 29 Inchydoney Island Lodge & Spa Unplug, unwind and reconnect with a staycation on West Corks blue-flag shores P erched between two sweeping Blue Flag beaches just outside the colourful town of Clonakilty, Inchydoney Island Lodge & Spa is an Irish seaside resort that offers that unique West Cork welc STAYCATIONS CONTENTS Well-travelled Kiran Mehta on The Land of a thousand welcomes Page 8 The Deerstone in Co Wicklow, an ambient six-acre resort with pet-friendly shepherds huts and deluxe rooms. Irelands best spots to gaze at the skies Pages 12 to 15 Cosy breaks Victoria Square in Belfast, one STAYCATIONS Siren call of Clonakilty Glaswegian singer-songwriter Michael McGovern reflects upon the unique timeless charm of Clonakilty for musicians I ts 10pm on a dark January night. In a post-dinner haze, you decide to take a quick walk around town. A freezing sea mist hangs low across the e STAYCATIONS The highs of Wicklow From hikes short and long to peaks low and high, as well as music festivals and destination cafes, Wicklow is called the Garden County for a reason, writes Eoghan OSullivan F or visitors to Dublin as well as city dwellers themselves Wicklow offers the promise STAYCATIONS The famed Irish welcome Mumbai-based writer Kiran Mehta offers a view on Irelands reputation as the land of a thousand welcomes I was in the Middle East when I first read the words, Céad Míle Fáilte embossed on a tall, white ceramic cup. I am an Indian citizen, but I grew up in Kuwai STAYCATIONS Upwardly mobile Love the great outdoors? Jennifer Sheahan offers a personal selection of memorable Irish camping destinations T here has been a lot of talk this summer about what it costs to holiday at home; €2,000 per week seems to be the going rate for a house near a beach in Kerry STAYCATIONS the best coastal scenery in the country. Im a Galway native by birth and by university, and there are a million things I love about the county, not least of which is the seafood. A local fisherman rowed up onto the campsite beach one evening and sold us fresh fish straight off the boat, STAYCATIONS Skys the limit Look at the stars, see how they shine for you with our guide to Irelands dark skies, writes Domhnall ODonoghue O scar Wilde once mused that everyone was in the gutter, but the lucky among us had our gaze fixed firmly on the stars. And as an Irishman, the witty scribe k STAYCATIONS We have a range of night-time experiences available to book if you would like to join us on one of our night-time adventures, says Roisín Doyle, duty manager at OM Dark Sky Park and Observatory. From the darker nights to the brighter days, our skies are always offering us something spec STAYCATIONS CONTINUED By Day: Rising 600m above the waves, Sliabh Liag is one of Europes highest sea cliffs and served as a Christian pilgrimage site for over 1,000 years. Burren National Park With its limestone terrain, Co Clares Burren National Park is undoubtedly one of Europes most unique r STAYCATIONS LEFT: Aurora Borealis, Derryclare Lough, Connemara, Co Galway. Photo: Failte Ireland ABOVE: A comet soaring across the Kerry International Dark-Sky Reserve. Photo: Michael Sheehan RIGHT: An image of the Rosetta nebula taken by Blackrock Castle Observatory. Photo: Blackrock Castle Observ STAYCATIONS Ten top trends in Irish holidays Sauna raves and chilli festivals are among the hot trends in Irish holidays this year, writes Thom Breathnach A new travel season means new trends, new openings and fresh festivals. So whats literally hot for autumn 2026? From country house escapes, g STAYCATIONS TOP: The annual Macnas Halloween Parade in Galway in October is a hugely popular free open air event. BELOW: Seeking a sweet getaway as part of a very tasty current staycation trend? Scéal Bakery in Dublin. travel for skin care and wellness is on the rise, not only for women but also f STAYCATIONS Wonderful Waterford Waterford is a rural gem that will keep you coming back year after year, as Mimi Murray discovers 18 September 2026 T here are two counties in Ireland that have it all, but dont get the attention of heavy hitters such as Galway or Kerry, Garvan Cummins from The STAYCATIONS MAIN PHOTO, LEFT: Young families love the Dunmore East Adventure centre, with great outdoor amenities and an indoor adventure area including climbing wall, Ninja course, Laser, archery and more. ABOVE: A section of the beautiful 46km Greenway from Waterford city to Dungarvan. LEFT: Come STAYCATIONS The people of Limerick have always refused to conform, a spirit wonderfully reflected in its blossoming cultural scene, writes Domhnall ODonoghue If the herd goes right, then here, we go left. Youd be hard-pressed to find anyone more enthusiastic about Limerick than Stephen Cunneen, o STAYCATIONS ABOVE: Pat Shortt, in a scene from Wreckquiem, by Mike Finn. Photo: Maurice Gunning BELOW: Blindboy in conversation. Photo: Fáilte Ireland and Barry Cronin made, theres a sense of striving in our work that I think makes it stronger. Daly is also a producer at the Limerick Literary Fest STAYCATIONS Spiritual journeys to sacred sites I s this the year that you will try at last one of the legendary pilgrim routes that are dotted across Ireland, a trip you always meant to make, but somehow never got round to? There are so many wonderful and fulfilling pathways to sites of saintly i STAYCATIONS fasting in the cave overnight, in the hope of seeing visions of the Otherworld. Todays pilgrims visit a vastly developed Station Island, with a huge basilica covering most of the original ground, and definitely stay above ground for their purgatorial rituals. Visits to the island are boo STAYCATIONS LEFT: Praying at St Patricks Purgatory on Lough Derg, Donegal, where pilgrims attend fasting, barefoot prayer and allnight vigils. Pic: Paul Faith / AFP RIGHT: A sheep at St Finbarrs Oratory in Gougane Barra, West Cork. Pic: David Creedon CONTINUED Ice Age, runs east to west across t STAYCATIONS neck Pass and along stretches of old pathways for some 96km (56 miles). This, it is said, was the route taken by Declan driving in his chariot to the royal court at Cashel. Although reverence for St Declan certainly cannot be denied, it is likely that this route was already well known fr STAYCATIONS Bookmark this guide to Dublin In the capital city, the stories of literary greats are whispered at every corner, waiting to be heard, writes Kiran Mehta W.B. Yeats, the trump of our hates; His early political views resting on, his love of Maud Gonne, who wouldnt go out on his dates! STAYCATIONS passions a quotation. His words seem truer today than when they were first uttered. With continuous exposure to rage tweets, satirical memes (which trend right before election time), a continuous stream of Instagram stories and posts, how much of what we think is actually our own though STAYCATIONS Gods own dining spots From train carriages to country estates, we take a look at some of the Irish dining spots worthy of a celestial visit. Words by Mimi Murray, Deanna OConnor and Marcus OLaoughaire Ómós First up on Gods food trail is recently opened Ómós in Abbeyleix, a visionary c STAYCATIONS home, rather than a hotel. The welcome is warm, and whether you come for the famed afternoon tea or stay on for dinner, you are guaranteed to feel entranced. On the menu is fine dining paired with a surprisingly reasonably priced wine list. The pan-fried duck breast with cherries and smo STAYCATIONS Buddies on tour Jennifer Sheahan serves up a guide to holidaying in Ireland with a convoy of chums and their families P icture this: its a cold, wet day in January. Youre lying on your couch binging re-runs of Arrested Development and avoiding reality, when your phone buzzes. You pi STAYCATIONS [SPONSORED] GUIDE TO GREAT BREAKS: continues overleaf DRUIDS GLEN HOTEL & GOLF RESORT noon to find my friends four-yearold had strewn the contents of my makeup bag across the ground floor. He enjoyed himself but I have since learned to shut the door. Plan food, but dont overthink STAYCATIONS [SPONSORED] Your guide to a wealth of great breaks, activities and Looking for an inspirational break in Ireland? Here is a guide to some of the best staycations currently on offer YOUR GUIDE TO GREAT ALL-ISLAND STAYCATIONS Fernhill Hotel & Estate offers a peaceful escape in the hear STAYCATIONS [SPONSORED] adventures Sligo Park Hotel Your Sligo starts here Take a break in Sligo Park Hotel, just minutes from Sligo town and the coast and countryside nearby. SLIGO PARK HOTEL each morning, a three-course evening meal each night, tea or coffee with a scone, evening music, a gu STAYCATIONS [SPONSORED] Magical breaks with the very best of food, fun and YOUR GUIDE TO GREAT ALL-ISLANDSTAYCATIONS Iveagh Garden Hotel, a short walk from iconic Dublin attractions like St Stephens Green, Dublin Castle and St Patricks Cathedral. IVEAGH GARDEN HOTEL T h e f o u r - s t a r I ve STAYCATIONS [SPONSORED] entertainment for all Slow the pace, take in the sheer beauty of this unique 500-acre estate MOUNT JULIET ESTATE stunning deluxe bedrooms Wake up and enjoy a full Irish & Continental Breakfast in the morning A Choice of either a 2Course Set Meal in Elles Bistro or Aftern STAYCATIONS Galway, the Venice of the West John Daly finds that Galway delivers plenty of reasons to be cheerful for staycationers looking to recharge their batteries Macnas performing An Treun - The Summoning Of The Lost for the 2025 Halloween parade in Galway city. Photo: Ray Ryan Galway Oyste STAYCATIONS Kylemore Abbey, a beautiful Benedictine monastery and iconic attraction set in 1,000 acres of mountainside in Connemara, Co Galway. memories regardless of the climatic pain endured. One vivid afternoon etched in my memory happened back in 2010 as we made our way down the Maumturks range STAYCATIONS Escape to The Lake Hotel STAYCATIONS STAYCATIONS 40 September 2026