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fasting in the cave overnight, in the
hope of seeing visions of the Otherworld. Todays pilgrims visit a
vastly developed Station Island,
with a huge basilica covering most
of the original ground, and definitely stay above ground for their
purgatorial rituals.
Visits to the island are booked and
controlled, but you can take a very
old pilgrim route from the visitor
centre at the pier, following in the
footsteps of those who came this way
hundreds of years ago to reached
their goal via Saints Island.
The 12km path leads you by St Brigids Chair, a mystic weathered
boulder, and St Daveocs Chair, associated with a local hermit. This
feature is partially natural, but
bears signs of once having been a
Bronze Age burial place.
This is the point where the modern
route joins the ancient pilgrimage
road that would have brought the
medieval pilgrims from Templecarne,
on the very border of Fermanagh and
Donegal. Next, St Brigids Well and its
rag tree covered with offerings by
those seeking blessing, and finally the
edge of the lake opposite Saints Island, where you can still glimpse the
stones which supported a wooden
bridge bringing medieval pilgrims
across to that daunting cave on
Station Island. And from here you return to your starting point.
Tóchar Phádraig, Mayo
Tóchar Phádraig is another Christian pilgrim path which has taken
over a much older route, and is
today best known for the annual
climb to Croagh Patrick on the last
Sunday in July.
ABOVE:
Pilgrim walkers
ascending Cnoc na
dTobar mountain
route in south Kerry.
But the route from Ballintubber is
in fact the ancient chariot road from
Rathcruachan, royal seat of Queen
Maeve, to Cruachain Aille, the
sacred mountain. Did Maeve journey here to seek advice on her forays and battles in the Iron Age? Certainly it was an important and wellmaintained road in pre-Christian
times: ancient stone flags have been
uncovered at various points along
its route, indicating its high status in
the time of Connachts kings.
That the festival is held at Lunasa
is another indicator of its importance in pagan times, while archaeological finds have confirmed
beyond doubt that Croagh Patrick
was a sacred site long before the
coming of Christianity.
The name Ballintubber, where this
pilgrim path starts, comes from Baile
an Tobair, the townland of the well.
Formerly known as Bail Creevagh, it
is now dedicated to St Patrick, and a
large stone next to the well is said to
bear the imprint of the saints knee.
The abbey, built in the 12th century
by a later king of Connacht, Cathal
Crobh Dearg OConor, had a hostel
which offered overnight shelter to pilgrims on their way to the mountain.
There is another marvellous
boulder stone, boasting superb rock
art, at Boheh (a modern rendition of
bothar or road, another clue to its antiquity), along the pilgrimage trail at
Brackloon, as you cross the N59
Leenane road, south of Westport.
Today, naturally, it is called St Patricks Stone or St Patricks Chair.
Incidentally, if you find yourself
standing right by the Boheh Stone
around sunset in the third week of
August, you just might be lucky
enough to witness the phenomenon
of the Rolling Sun. The sun at this
time will appear to set on the peak of
Croagh Patrick; but then seems to
roll right down the north side of the
peak. On a clear evening of course...
Further along the Tóchar Phá-
draig, by the 10th century round
tower at Aghagower, is a circular
stone trough known as Dabhach Phadraig, where pilgrims traditionally
washed their feet. The soil at the base
of the tree which overhangs this bath
is said to have curative powers; but
note that you are obliged to return
the earth to where you found it once
the cure has been effected. To neglect
this part of the sequence would be
asking for trouble.
Clonmacnoise, Offaly
It would be difficult to find a more
wonderful setting than Clonmacnoise, seeming to float between land
and sky on the banks of the Shannon
where the Eiscir Riada or Slíghe
Mhór meets the river at an age-old
crossing point.
The natural esker or ridge of
higher ground left behind after the
CONTINUES NEXT PAGE >>
September 2026
23
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STAYCATIONS 40 September 2026