STAYCATIONS Spiritual journeys to sacred sites I s this the year that you will try at last one of the legendary pilgrim routes that are dotted across Ireland, a trip you always meant to make, but somehow never got round to? There are so many wonderful and fulfilling pathways to sites of saintly interest that no matter what corner of the country you find yourself in, there is sure to be one which calls to you. And once youve heard that call, you simply have to answer it. You cant pretend you havent heard it. While you are walking your chosen path, though, you may well discover a few things that you hadnt expected. Ancient pagan rites and rituals, for example, and old routeways that once had very different purposes to their presentday identification with Christianity. Other fascinating stories and places that you never suspected existed. Thats what pilgrimages should be all about. You should come back a different person, with a mind full of new things, new experiences. The coming of Christianity to Ireland around the 5th century has been credited with the emergence of pilgrimages, but in fact travelling to important sites of worship would already have been very much part of life from pagan times. The custom of making your way to somewhere special to improve your moral standing is actually an awful lot older than the new religion from Rome. After all, humankind has always needed to beg for good fortune, advice, help, guidance, and our forefathers were no different. Those seeking a glimpse of the future, as well as those wishing to pay homage to the gods who made the crops grow and families prosper, made their way in ancient times to venerated hilltops, special is- ABOVE AND BELOW: St Declans Way at Ardmore, County Waterford, which has been a popular place of pilgrimage for centuries Participants in the Tóchar Phádraig walk pause to reflect at a Cillin at Ballyburke, Killawalla, on the ancient pilgrim route to Croagh Patrick. Picture: Tom Quinn Looking for a break with a spiritual edge? Follow The Pilgrim Path, suggests Jo Kerrigan lands and important burial sites at the appropriate times of the year. The history of pilgrim paths, therefore, is very old, and to follow a particular route of worship often means walking on ancient tracks, worn down by countless generations following the bóithrín of belief down through the ages. Sometimes the modern pilgrimage itself is of relatively recent origin, but has nevertheless drawn on older traditions and sites which people have already been resorting to for help and guidance over thousands of years. And why should it matter if ancestors with different beliefs trod the same path as you do today? Does the name of a belief or religion matter so much? Arent you seeking the same things after all? Among the many sites of pilgrimage in Ireland today, a few stand out as being of particular interest. See which one calls to you as you read these pages, and follow it this year. You will of course have the distinct advantage over your ancestors in that you are certain to find wonderful cafes, restaurants, and pubs along the way, where you can stop and rest your feet while refreshing the inner pilgrim. You will also discover some delightful places and things that you might never have known of, had you not set out on your own pilgrim trail. Turas Cholmcille, Donegal Turas Cholmcille is a particularly good example of ancient objects of worship being reinvented as Christian. In Glencolumkille on the western seaboard of Donegal, a magnificent collection of standing stones survives from prehistoric times, as well 22 September 2026 as court cairns, portal dolmens, and ringforts. Many of these, you will find, were later Christianised, or renamed to reflect newer beliefs. On June 9th each year, Lá an Turais (the Day of the Journey) brings visitors from far and near to walk barefoot around 15 standing stones and cairns. Significantly, the original name for this valley was Sean Gleann or Old Glen, before it became associated with the Christian saint. Glencolumcille is very likely to have been an ancient sacred site, with paths leading to it from both inland and the coast. Many of the minor roads of today probably reflect those old tracks. Take a dowsing stone along, swing it gently on a narrow pathway, and see what it tells you. There is a longer version of the Turas Cholmcille, more of a long-distance hiking trail than a religious round. Known as the Slí Cholmcille, it travels right across the north of Ireland via Tory Island and Derry to Coleraine, and on to Iona, finishing up at Tarbat Ness in Easter Ross on the Scottish mainland. That might be one for a summer expedition (or several), rather like the Camino in northern Spain. Lough Derg, Donegal Lough Derg in Donegal (to distinguish it from the Lough Derg in Co Clare, on the lower reaches of the Shannon) is a deeply historic place. It was known from earliest times as an important sacred site, and it is marked on very old maps, showing that importance. In Irish it was known as the Lake of the Cave, since at that time the most sacred place was the mysterious cave beneath the island. Pilgrims would venture here and stay STAYCATIONS September 2026 Gods own dining spaces Sensational destinations that put dining experiences at the heart of your Irish staycation Pages 28 and 29 Inchydoney Island Lodge & Spa Unplug, unwind and reconnect with a staycation on West Corks blue-flag shores P erched between two sweeping Blue Flag beaches just outside the colourful town of Clonakilty, Inchydoney Island Lodge & Spa is an Irish seaside resort that offers that unique West Cork welc STAYCATIONS CONTENTS Well-travelled Kiran Mehta on The Land of a thousand welcomes Page 8 The Deerstone in Co Wicklow, an ambient six-acre resort with pet-friendly shepherds huts and deluxe rooms. Irelands best spots to gaze at the skies Pages 12 to 15 Cosy breaks Victoria Square in Belfast, one STAYCATIONS Siren call of Clonakilty Glaswegian singer-songwriter Michael McGovern reflects upon the unique timeless charm of Clonakilty for musicians I ts 10pm on a dark January night. In a post-dinner haze, you decide to take a quick walk around town. A freezing sea mist hangs low across the e STAYCATIONS The highs of Wicklow From hikes short and long to peaks low and high, as well as music festivals and destination cafes, Wicklow is called the Garden County for a reason, writes Eoghan OSullivan F or visitors to Dublin as well as city dwellers themselves Wicklow offers the promise STAYCATIONS The famed Irish welcome Mumbai-based writer Kiran Mehta offers a view on Irelands reputation as the land of a thousand welcomes I was in the Middle East when I first read the words, Céad Míle Fáilte embossed on a tall, white ceramic cup. I am an Indian citizen, but I grew up in Kuwai STAYCATIONS Upwardly mobile Love the great outdoors? Jennifer Sheahan offers a personal selection of memorable Irish camping destinations T here has been a lot of talk this summer about what it costs to holiday at home; €2,000 per week seems to be the going rate for a house near a beach in Kerry STAYCATIONS the best coastal scenery in the country. Im a Galway native by birth and by university, and there are a million things I love about the county, not least of which is the seafood. A local fisherman rowed up onto the campsite beach one evening and sold us fresh fish straight off the boat, STAYCATIONS Skys the limit Look at the stars, see how they shine for you with our guide to Irelands dark skies, writes Domhnall ODonoghue O scar Wilde once mused that everyone was in the gutter, but the lucky among us had our gaze fixed firmly on the stars. And as an Irishman, the witty scribe k STAYCATIONS We have a range of night-time experiences available to book if you would like to join us on one of our night-time adventures, says Roisín Doyle, duty manager at OM Dark Sky Park and Observatory. From the darker nights to the brighter days, our skies are always offering us something spec STAYCATIONS CONTINUED By Day: Rising 600m above the waves, Sliabh Liag is one of Europes highest sea cliffs and served as a Christian pilgrimage site for over 1,000 years. Burren National Park With its limestone terrain, Co Clares Burren National Park is undoubtedly one of Europes most unique r STAYCATIONS LEFT: Aurora Borealis, Derryclare Lough, Connemara, Co Galway. Photo: Failte Ireland ABOVE: A comet soaring across the Kerry International Dark-Sky Reserve. Photo: Michael Sheehan RIGHT: An image of the Rosetta nebula taken by Blackrock Castle Observatory. Photo: Blackrock Castle Observ STAYCATIONS Ten top trends in Irish holidays Sauna raves and chilli festivals are among the hot trends in Irish holidays this year, writes Thom Breathnach A new travel season means new trends, new openings and fresh festivals. So whats literally hot for autumn 2026? From country house escapes, g STAYCATIONS TOP: The annual Macnas Halloween Parade in Galway in October is a hugely popular free open air event. BELOW: Seeking a sweet getaway as part of a very tasty current staycation trend? Scéal Bakery in Dublin. travel for skin care and wellness is on the rise, not only for women but also f STAYCATIONS Wonderful Waterford Waterford is a rural gem that will keep you coming back year after year, as Mimi Murray discovers 18 September 2026 T here are two counties in Ireland that have it all, but dont get the attention of heavy hitters such as Galway or Kerry, Garvan Cummins from The STAYCATIONS MAIN PHOTO, LEFT: Young families love the Dunmore East Adventure centre, with great outdoor amenities and an indoor adventure area including climbing wall, Ninja course, Laser, archery and more. ABOVE: A section of the beautiful 46km Greenway from Waterford city to Dungarvan. LEFT: Come STAYCATIONS The people of Limerick have always refused to conform, a spirit wonderfully reflected in its blossoming cultural scene, writes Domhnall ODonoghue If the herd goes right, then here, we go left. Youd be hard-pressed to find anyone more enthusiastic about Limerick than Stephen Cunneen, o STAYCATIONS ABOVE: Pat Shortt, in a scene from Wreckquiem, by Mike Finn. Photo: Maurice Gunning BELOW: Blindboy in conversation. Photo: Fáilte Ireland and Barry Cronin made, theres a sense of striving in our work that I think makes it stronger. Daly is also a producer at the Limerick Literary Fest STAYCATIONS Spiritual journeys to sacred sites I s this the year that you will try at last one of the legendary pilgrim routes that are dotted across Ireland, a trip you always meant to make, but somehow never got round to? There are so many wonderful and fulfilling pathways to sites of saintly i STAYCATIONS fasting in the cave overnight, in the hope of seeing visions of the Otherworld. Todays pilgrims visit a vastly developed Station Island, with a huge basilica covering most of the original ground, and definitely stay above ground for their purgatorial rituals. Visits to the island are boo STAYCATIONS LEFT: Praying at St Patricks Purgatory on Lough Derg, Donegal, where pilgrims attend fasting, barefoot prayer and allnight vigils. Pic: Paul Faith / AFP RIGHT: A sheep at St Finbarrs Oratory in Gougane Barra, West Cork. Pic: David Creedon CONTINUED Ice Age, runs east to west across t STAYCATIONS neck Pass and along stretches of old pathways for some 96km (56 miles). This, it is said, was the route taken by Declan driving in his chariot to the royal court at Cashel. Although reverence for St Declan certainly cannot be denied, it is likely that this route was already well known fr STAYCATIONS Bookmark this guide to Dublin In the capital city, the stories of literary greats are whispered at every corner, waiting to be heard, writes Kiran Mehta W.B. Yeats, the trump of our hates; His early political views resting on, his love of Maud Gonne, who wouldnt go out on his dates! STAYCATIONS passions a quotation. His words seem truer today than when they were first uttered. With continuous exposure to rage tweets, satirical memes (which trend right before election time), a continuous stream of Instagram stories and posts, how much of what we think is actually our own though STAYCATIONS Gods own dining spots From train carriages to country estates, we take a look at some of the Irish dining spots worthy of a celestial visit. Words by Mimi Murray, Deanna OConnor and Marcus OLaoughaire Ómós First up on Gods food trail is recently opened Ómós in Abbeyleix, a visionary c STAYCATIONS home, rather than a hotel. The welcome is warm, and whether you come for the famed afternoon tea or stay on for dinner, you are guaranteed to feel entranced. On the menu is fine dining paired with a surprisingly reasonably priced wine list. The pan-fried duck breast with cherries and smo STAYCATIONS Buddies on tour Jennifer Sheahan serves up a guide to holidaying in Ireland with a convoy of chums and their families P icture this: its a cold, wet day in January. Youre lying on your couch binging re-runs of Arrested Development and avoiding reality, when your phone buzzes. You pi STAYCATIONS [SPONSORED] GUIDE TO GREAT BREAKS: continues overleaf DRUIDS GLEN HOTEL & GOLF RESORT noon to find my friends four-yearold had strewn the contents of my makeup bag across the ground floor. He enjoyed himself but I have since learned to shut the door. Plan food, but dont overthink STAYCATIONS [SPONSORED] Your guide to a wealth of great breaks, activities and Looking for an inspirational break in Ireland? Here is a guide to some of the best staycations currently on offer YOUR GUIDE TO GREAT ALL-ISLAND STAYCATIONS Fernhill Hotel & Estate offers a peaceful escape in the hear STAYCATIONS [SPONSORED] adventures Sligo Park Hotel Your Sligo starts here Take a break in Sligo Park Hotel, just minutes from Sligo town and the coast and countryside nearby. SLIGO PARK HOTEL each morning, a three-course evening meal each night, tea or coffee with a scone, evening music, a gu STAYCATIONS [SPONSORED] Magical breaks with the very best of food, fun and YOUR GUIDE TO GREAT ALL-ISLANDSTAYCATIONS Iveagh Garden Hotel, a short walk from iconic Dublin attractions like St Stephens Green, Dublin Castle and St Patricks Cathedral. IVEAGH GARDEN HOTEL T h e f o u r - s t a r I ve STAYCATIONS [SPONSORED] entertainment for all Slow the pace, take in the sheer beauty of this unique 500-acre estate MOUNT JULIET ESTATE stunning deluxe bedrooms Wake up and enjoy a full Irish & Continental Breakfast in the morning A Choice of either a 2Course Set Meal in Elles Bistro or Aftern STAYCATIONS Galway, the Venice of the West John Daly finds that Galway delivers plenty of reasons to be cheerful for staycationers looking to recharge their batteries Macnas performing An Treun - The Summoning Of The Lost for the 2025 Halloween parade in Galway city. Photo: Ray Ryan Galway Oyste STAYCATIONS Kylemore Abbey, a beautiful Benedictine monastery and iconic attraction set in 1,000 acres of mountainside in Connemara, Co Galway. memories regardless of the climatic pain endured. One vivid afternoon etched in my memory happened back in 2010 as we made our way down the Maumturks range STAYCATIONS Escape to The Lake Hotel STAYCATIONS STAYCATIONS 40 September 2026