STAYCATIONS
Gods own
dining
spots
From train carriages to country estates, we take a
look at some of the Irish dining spots worthy of a
celestial visit. Words by Mimi Murray, Deanna
OConnor and Marcus OLaoughaire
Ómós
First up on Gods food trail is recently
opened Ómós in Abbeyleix, a visionary concept by chef Cuan Greene,
formerly of Noma in Copenhagen and
LEFT:
Irish salad at
Ómós in
Abbeyleix, Co
Laois, hailed
as a great new
dining
experience.
BELOW:
Angelo
Vagiotis, head
chef at
Pullman, the
restaurant
housed in two
Orient Express
carriages on
the grounds of
Glenlo Abbey,
overlooking
Lough Corrib,
Co Galway
Bastible in Dublin. The fine dining
restaurant is just part of the overall
experience at this restored Victorian
estate, its neutral tones, stone and
wooden interiors a lesson in relaxed
refinement.
Its hard to believe this estate had
fallen into ruin before it was bought
by Irish tech billionaire John Collison in 2022. He and a handful of other
investors have allowed Greene the
time, creative space and money to
pull together a unique addition to the
Irish travel and food scene.
The 13-course tasting menu with
wine pairing, or a thoughtful non-alcoholic option, is a joy from start to finish. Its summer menu begins with tomato pie, topped with anchovy brought
to the table by one of a large team
quietly working away in an open-plan
kitchen that exudes calm. No thrown
pots or kitchen hysterics here, just a
love for the produce and in creating an
exceptional meal for guests.
Dishes include dry-aged hamachi
with rhubarb dressing and magnolia
condiment, an Irish summer salad (reimagined rolled ham and egg) line
caught fish as well as a snail dumpling
that evokes more nostalgia by way of
old school chicken Kiev that arrive one
after another. Tables at Ómós are
mainly held for residents, but some are
made available to those not staying.
MM
Sika Restaurant
Look out onto the empyrean sight of
Douglas-Firs, Corsican Pines, Giant
Redwoods and Atlantic Cedars from
your table at Sika restaurant in
Powerscourt estate. The eight-course
tasting menu is thoughtfully compiled
by executive chef Cormac McCreary
and each new course is a triumph.
Start with canapés that comprise tuna
tartar with ponzo, Coolattin cheddar
gougère, brioche feuilleté and Guinness and treacle bread paired with a
glass of Perrier-Jouët Grand Brut NV.
An assortment of tastes bursting with
flavour, this is an exciting start to an
exceptional meal. Next tuck into foie
28
September 2026
gras parfait with peach, native
lobster, tomato and parmesan
followed by sole Viennoise, broccoli, sudachi and smoked Dashi
Sauce, an elegant dish excellently paired with a Trimbach
Riesling. Things switch up a gear
with the final savoury course
and Wicklow lamb with Baba Ganoush, Romesco and Polenta.
MM
Pullman
Kick off eight divine courses
with nibbles and a glass of Billecart Salmon aboard The Pullman
restaurant which is presided
over by head chef Angelo Vagiotis. Stunningly located aboard
two decommissioned Orient Express carriages on the grounds of
Glenlo Abbey and overlooking
magical Lough Corrib, Vagiotis
ethos is to be ever-changing with
the seasons. This Michelin-star
meal starts with cheese puffs
(hastily eaten in one bite), Flaggy
shore oysters and Guinness
bread, deftly followed by Bonito,
topped with caper and raisin, hazelnut and cucumber. The bouquet salad, a signature dish and
on the menu since day one is an
example of the best use of seasonal ingredients from farm and
garden. Fragrant, simple and
delicious. A tomato consommé
with pea ravioli, red prawn and
lovage is followed by Atlantic
perch, a new dish that got its first
outing the evening we visited.
Paimpol beans, the most delicate
baby octopus and Luciana top
the fish, which is expertly paired
with a Spanish Albarino. Service
and atmosphere is as good as
how I imagine it aboard the Ve-
ABOVE:
What could be
more enticing
than a picnic on
the shores of
Caragh Lake in
Kerry, one of the
options open to
visitors to Ard na
Sidhe country
house.
BELOW:
Deanna OConnor,
taking the boat
out on Caragh
Lake.
nice Simplon Orient Express
and if that is on your bucket list,
like mine, The Pullman isnt to
be missed.
MM
Éalú at The Stonehouse
Head out around the Slea Head
drive and just after the wholesome frolics of the Hold a Baby
Lamb (does it get more Godlike?) experience, you will find
Éalú at The Stonehouse. On a
sunny day there is nowhere
finer to sit outside admiring the
glistening majesty of the Atlantic spread out before you, with a
glass of bubbles expertly chosen
by wine buff Clíona Moriarty.
With her chef husband Kallam,
they took the lease on the restaurant in this unusual stone
building and turned what could
have been a very standard tour
bus café stop-off into one of the
Dingle Peninsulas must-visit
foodie destinations. Try some
sharing plates of baked Cavanbert or some juicy Nocellara
olives, pick a small plate like a
lobster bisque, or go for a more
substantial elevated take on a
seafood chowder. But make sure
to leave room for dessert. Kallams patisserie skills are of a
level rarely seen outside Paris.
DOC
Ard na Sidhe Country House
The ethereal magic or Ard na
Sidhe hits you full force as you
pull into the driveway and the
vista of Caragh Lake down
below takes your breath away.
The old house, all stone, sits unobtrusively, complementing its
surroundings. It still has the
feel of an exquisite country
STAYCATIONS September 2026 Gods own dining spaces Sensational destinations that put dining experiences at the heart of your Irish staycation Pages 28 and 29
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STAYCATIONS Escape to The Lake Hotel
STAYCATIONS
STAYCATIONS 40 September 2026