STAYCATIONS The highs of Wicklow From hikes short and long to peaks low and high, as well as music festivals and destination cafes, Wicklow is called the Garden County for a reason, writes Eoghan OSullivan F or visitors to Dublin as well as city dwellers themselves Wicklow offers the promise of beaches and easy getaways, with direct access from the city centre via the DART. Bonus points for the stunning views, rolling through Monkstown and Dún Laoghaire before reaching Bray and then tunnelling through the mountain to Greystones at the end of the line. Thats as good a place as any to start. Many Irish people know the town as home to the Happy Pear. What began in 2004 as a vegetarian restaurant run by twins David and Stephen Flynn survived the financial crash and has grown into a wider business of podcasts and cookbooks. They even won the 2021 celebrity edition of Irelands Fittest Family. Treat yourself to a delish bake and coffee and lets get ready to set off. You could once round off a day trip with the classic cliff walk between Greystones and Bray (where you might even have run into the Flynn twins on a barefoot run). Alas, that path has been closed for several years after repeated landslides and erosion made sections unstable. Wicklow County Council has kept it fenced off, much to the chagrin of locals and visitors alike. While work continues behind the scenes, it remains off-limits for the foreseeable future. The good news is that the Bray Head Loop still delivers much of the same drama. Hop on the DART back from Greystones and make your way up to the dramatic stone cross, erected in 1950 to mark the Catholic jubilee and Holy Year. From there the view opens out across Bray, north-east Wicklow and the full sweep of Dublin Bay. On a clear day you can pick out the Great and Little 6 September 2026 Sugar Loaf, and Carrickgollogan, known locally as Kathy Gallagher. The distinctive conical shape of the Great Sugar Loaf can indeed be seen from almost every angle in Wicklow. At 501m, it ranks only 404th among Irish peaks, which on paper sounds almost modest. Dont be fooled. Whether youre shaking off winter cobwebs or ready to sweat in high summer, the final push over loose rock is incredibly steep and often rickety. It will leave you feeling on top of the world though. Glendalough is the place most people picture when they think of Wicklow. The valley of the two lakes boasts a round tower and scattering of early Christian ruins and feels surprisingly peaceful even on a busy day though youll want to get there early, especially on a Sunday, to beat the traffic. There are nine marked walks ranging from 1.5km to 11.5km. The most popular is the Spinc and Glenealo Valley circuit, just shy of 10km. An Spinc translates as pointed hill, and the trail lives up to it. It climbs steeply beside Poulanass Waterfall before joining the long wooden boardwalk. More than 600 steps lead to a viewing point that looks straight down onto the Upper Lake. From there the path skirts the top of the cliffs before dropping through blanket bog and heath into Glenealo Valley. A rough track then brings you back down into the main valley. Treat yourself to a cosy pint in nearby Laragh afterwards. Other popular walks include the trails around Poulaphouca Reservoir near Blessington, the woodland paths and waterfall route within the Powerscourt Estate (which got the seal of approval from Dua Lipa when she visited while on tour in 2022), and the more open mountain Wicklow offers a wealth of popular walks and trails, woodland paths and mountain treks. Below is the distinctive Great Sugar Loaf, which can be seen from almost every angle in Wicklow. Pictures: Eoghan OSullivan tracks that lead towards Djouce or along sections of the Wicklow Way. Powerscourt also makes a good base for two-wheeled adventurers. The county mixes quiet back roads, dramatic mountain passes, and a growing number of dedicated trails, depending on how ready your thighs are for the push. The Blessington Greenway offers a gentle, family-friendly loop around the reservoir, while stronger legs can take on the climbs of the Military Road or the Sally Gap for those big, open vistas. Again the DART is there for easy getaways along the coast if dead legs hit. For those who really want a challenge, they could follow the 180km route the Tour de France took when it came to Ireland in 1998. Starting in Dundrum on the southside of Dublin, climb up Kilmacud Road then down through Bray and the Glen of the Downs before continuing all the way to Arklow. Then, simply turn inland and head for Phoenix Park. Good luck! Wicklow music festivals For a different kind of high, Wicklow is also home to various music festivals. Though its been finished up for a few years, Knockanstockan holds a special place in the grizzled festival veterans heart. Taking place on farmland overlooking Blessington Lakes, it was surely the best camping spot for hungover heads. A very different type of festival calls Blessington home nowadays. Kaleidoscope at Russborough House is a fully-fledged festival experience that families can share together. Alongside the music, there are treehouse building workshops from Dermot Bannon, science experiments with Mark the Science Guy, workshops with the Gaiety School of Acting, and the Circus Factory. One of the defining festivals of the summer is Beyond the Pale tagline: Time does not exist here which takes place in mid-June among the wild woodlands of Glendalough Estate. Whether the weekend brings rain or unbroken sunshine, the main stage, set against rising trees, is genuinely stunning. Recent headliners included Caribou, Father John Misty and Primal Scream. Youll be screaming your head off at the festival, but Wicklow can take your breath away in so many ways. STAYCATIONS September 2026 Gods own dining spaces Sensational destinations that put dining experiences at the heart of your Irish staycation Pages 28 and 29 Inchydoney Island Lodge & Spa Unplug, unwind and reconnect with a staycation on West Corks blue-flag shores P erched between two sweeping Blue Flag beaches just outside the colourful town of Clonakilty, Inchydoney Island Lodge & Spa is an Irish seaside resort that offers that unique West Cork welc STAYCATIONS CONTENTS Well-travelled Kiran Mehta on The Land of a thousand welcomes Page 8 The Deerstone in Co Wicklow, an ambient six-acre resort with pet-friendly shepherds huts and deluxe rooms. Irelands best spots to gaze at the skies Pages 12 to 15 Cosy breaks Victoria Square in Belfast, one STAYCATIONS Siren call of Clonakilty Glaswegian singer-songwriter Michael McGovern reflects upon the unique timeless charm of Clonakilty for musicians I ts 10pm on a dark January night. In a post-dinner haze, you decide to take a quick walk around town. A freezing sea mist hangs low across the e STAYCATIONS The highs of Wicklow From hikes short and long to peaks low and high, as well as music festivals and destination cafes, Wicklow is called the Garden County for a reason, writes Eoghan OSullivan F or visitors to Dublin as well as city dwellers themselves Wicklow offers the promise STAYCATIONS The famed Irish welcome Mumbai-based writer Kiran Mehta offers a view on Irelands reputation as the land of a thousand welcomes I was in the Middle East when I first read the words, Céad Míle Fáilte embossed on a tall, white ceramic cup. I am an Indian citizen, but I grew up in Kuwai STAYCATIONS Upwardly mobile Love the great outdoors? Jennifer Sheahan offers a personal selection of memorable Irish camping destinations T here has been a lot of talk this summer about what it costs to holiday at home; €2,000 per week seems to be the going rate for a house near a beach in Kerry STAYCATIONS the best coastal scenery in the country. Im a Galway native by birth and by university, and there are a million things I love about the county, not least of which is the seafood. A local fisherman rowed up onto the campsite beach one evening and sold us fresh fish straight off the boat, STAYCATIONS Skys the limit Look at the stars, see how they shine for you with our guide to Irelands dark skies, writes Domhnall ODonoghue O scar Wilde once mused that everyone was in the gutter, but the lucky among us had our gaze fixed firmly on the stars. And as an Irishman, the witty scribe k STAYCATIONS We have a range of night-time experiences available to book if you would like to join us on one of our night-time adventures, says Roisín Doyle, duty manager at OM Dark Sky Park and Observatory. From the darker nights to the brighter days, our skies are always offering us something spec STAYCATIONS CONTINUED By Day: Rising 600m above the waves, Sliabh Liag is one of Europes highest sea cliffs and served as a Christian pilgrimage site for over 1,000 years. Burren National Park With its limestone terrain, Co Clares Burren National Park is undoubtedly one of Europes most unique r STAYCATIONS LEFT: Aurora Borealis, Derryclare Lough, Connemara, Co Galway. Photo: Failte Ireland ABOVE: A comet soaring across the Kerry International Dark-Sky Reserve. Photo: Michael Sheehan RIGHT: An image of the Rosetta nebula taken by Blackrock Castle Observatory. Photo: Blackrock Castle Observ STAYCATIONS Ten top trends in Irish holidays Sauna raves and chilli festivals are among the hot trends in Irish holidays this year, writes Thom Breathnach A new travel season means new trends, new openings and fresh festivals. So whats literally hot for autumn 2026? From country house escapes, g STAYCATIONS TOP: The annual Macnas Halloween Parade in Galway in October is a hugely popular free open air event. BELOW: Seeking a sweet getaway as part of a very tasty current staycation trend? Scéal Bakery in Dublin. travel for skin care and wellness is on the rise, not only for women but also f STAYCATIONS Wonderful Waterford Waterford is a rural gem that will keep you coming back year after year, as Mimi Murray discovers 18 September 2026 T here are two counties in Ireland that have it all, but dont get the attention of heavy hitters such as Galway or Kerry, Garvan Cummins from The STAYCATIONS MAIN PHOTO, LEFT: Young families love the Dunmore East Adventure centre, with great outdoor amenities and an indoor adventure area including climbing wall, Ninja course, Laser, archery and more. ABOVE: A section of the beautiful 46km Greenway from Waterford city to Dungarvan. LEFT: Come STAYCATIONS The people of Limerick have always refused to conform, a spirit wonderfully reflected in its blossoming cultural scene, writes Domhnall ODonoghue If the herd goes right, then here, we go left. Youd be hard-pressed to find anyone more enthusiastic about Limerick than Stephen Cunneen, o STAYCATIONS ABOVE: Pat Shortt, in a scene from Wreckquiem, by Mike Finn. Photo: Maurice Gunning BELOW: Blindboy in conversation. Photo: Fáilte Ireland and Barry Cronin made, theres a sense of striving in our work that I think makes it stronger. Daly is also a producer at the Limerick Literary Fest STAYCATIONS Spiritual journeys to sacred sites I s this the year that you will try at last one of the legendary pilgrim routes that are dotted across Ireland, a trip you always meant to make, but somehow never got round to? There are so many wonderful and fulfilling pathways to sites of saintly i STAYCATIONS fasting in the cave overnight, in the hope of seeing visions of the Otherworld. Todays pilgrims visit a vastly developed Station Island, with a huge basilica covering most of the original ground, and definitely stay above ground for their purgatorial rituals. Visits to the island are boo STAYCATIONS LEFT: Praying at St Patricks Purgatory on Lough Derg, Donegal, where pilgrims attend fasting, barefoot prayer and allnight vigils. Pic: Paul Faith / AFP RIGHT: A sheep at St Finbarrs Oratory in Gougane Barra, West Cork. Pic: David Creedon CONTINUED Ice Age, runs east to west across t STAYCATIONS neck Pass and along stretches of old pathways for some 96km (56 miles). This, it is said, was the route taken by Declan driving in his chariot to the royal court at Cashel. Although reverence for St Declan certainly cannot be denied, it is likely that this route was already well known fr STAYCATIONS Bookmark this guide to Dublin In the capital city, the stories of literary greats are whispered at every corner, waiting to be heard, writes Kiran Mehta W.B. Yeats, the trump of our hates; His early political views resting on, his love of Maud Gonne, who wouldnt go out on his dates! STAYCATIONS passions a quotation. His words seem truer today than when they were first uttered. With continuous exposure to rage tweets, satirical memes (which trend right before election time), a continuous stream of Instagram stories and posts, how much of what we think is actually our own though STAYCATIONS Gods own dining spots From train carriages to country estates, we take a look at some of the Irish dining spots worthy of a celestial visit. Words by Mimi Murray, Deanna OConnor and Marcus OLaoughaire Ómós First up on Gods food trail is recently opened Ómós in Abbeyleix, a visionary c STAYCATIONS home, rather than a hotel. The welcome is warm, and whether you come for the famed afternoon tea or stay on for dinner, you are guaranteed to feel entranced. On the menu is fine dining paired with a surprisingly reasonably priced wine list. The pan-fried duck breast with cherries and smo STAYCATIONS Buddies on tour Jennifer Sheahan serves up a guide to holidaying in Ireland with a convoy of chums and their families P icture this: its a cold, wet day in January. Youre lying on your couch binging re-runs of Arrested Development and avoiding reality, when your phone buzzes. You pi STAYCATIONS [SPONSORED] GUIDE TO GREAT BREAKS: continues overleaf DRUIDS GLEN HOTEL & GOLF RESORT noon to find my friends four-yearold had strewn the contents of my makeup bag across the ground floor. He enjoyed himself but I have since learned to shut the door. Plan food, but dont overthink STAYCATIONS [SPONSORED] Your guide to a wealth of great breaks, activities and Looking for an inspirational break in Ireland? Here is a guide to some of the best staycations currently on offer YOUR GUIDE TO GREAT ALL-ISLAND STAYCATIONS Fernhill Hotel & Estate offers a peaceful escape in the hear STAYCATIONS [SPONSORED] adventures Sligo Park Hotel Your Sligo starts here Take a break in Sligo Park Hotel, just minutes from Sligo town and the coast and countryside nearby. SLIGO PARK HOTEL each morning, a three-course evening meal each night, tea or coffee with a scone, evening music, a gu STAYCATIONS [SPONSORED] Magical breaks with the very best of food, fun and YOUR GUIDE TO GREAT ALL-ISLANDSTAYCATIONS Iveagh Garden Hotel, a short walk from iconic Dublin attractions like St Stephens Green, Dublin Castle and St Patricks Cathedral. IVEAGH GARDEN HOTEL T h e f o u r - s t a r I ve STAYCATIONS [SPONSORED] entertainment for all Slow the pace, take in the sheer beauty of this unique 500-acre estate MOUNT JULIET ESTATE stunning deluxe bedrooms Wake up and enjoy a full Irish & Continental Breakfast in the morning A Choice of either a 2Course Set Meal in Elles Bistro or Aftern STAYCATIONS Galway, the Venice of the West John Daly finds that Galway delivers plenty of reasons to be cheerful for staycationers looking to recharge their batteries Macnas performing An Treun - The Summoning Of The Lost for the 2025 Halloween parade in Galway city. Photo: Ray Ryan Galway Oyste STAYCATIONS Kylemore Abbey, a beautiful Benedictine monastery and iconic attraction set in 1,000 acres of mountainside in Connemara, Co Galway. memories regardless of the climatic pain endured. One vivid afternoon etched in my memory happened back in 2010 as we made our way down the Maumturks range STAYCATIONS Escape to The Lake Hotel STAYCATIONS STAYCATIONS 40 September 2026