STAYCATIONS Siren call of Clonakilty Glaswegian singer-songwriter Michael McGovern reflects upon the unique timeless charm of Clonakilty for musicians I ts 10pm on a dark January night. In a post-dinner haze, you decide to take a quick walk around town. A freezing sea mist hangs low across the eerily still red-and-white bunting, crisscrossing Pearse Street from lamppost to lamppost. You are guided by a yellow orb of light in the distance, the sound of an electric guitar and a snare drum echoing out in the empty, cavernous night. Making a right turn onto Rossa Street, the noise gets louder, the drum intensifies. The green bar door swings open and spills its light onto the street. You can intermittently hear were going to chapel and were gonna get married (by The Dixie Cups) billowing out into the frigid air. Behind the condensation-covered windows, silhouettes sway. In a trance, you push through the green doorway, leaving the street, and any notion of the real world behind. Locals are packed from wall to wall, moving together as if one solid entity. You need to remind yourself its the middle of January as you watch middle aged men throw their hands in the air and dance like no ones watching. Women laugh and screech and sing at the top of their lungs. A young musician stares in wonder at the guitarists hands. An American tourist gazes amorously into the singers face, her knuckles on her chin. The audience havent just come to watch a band, they are here to be involved. They are a vital part of this. No one really seems interested in recording it. Theres barely an iPhone in sight. The musicians are nestled around a pit-like stage, with the crowd huddled in as close as can be. A guitar cable snakes across the floor into a crisscross of amps and pedals. 4 September 2026 Theres a trombone, a violin, a piano. A pint glass balances on top of an amplifier, rippling with every thump of the guitar. Everything is alive, moving, electric, and yet completely loose and free. Its not only a step back in time, but a glimpse of the good things that have been lost along the way. This is Shanleys Bar in Clonakilty. And if you know, you know. As far as Im concerned, its the centre of the musical universe. You could be Paul Brady or the kid from around the corner, and it wouldnt make a difference here. Youre given the same attention and the same respect. Thats what they do best, they remove the distinction between the person playing and the person listening. The song belongs to everyone in the room. At Shanleys, nobody seems particularly interested in who is supposed to be important. The musician, the local, the tourist, or the man eight pints deep with his forehead on the bar, everyone is part of the same thing. So why am I writing an article about a staycation in Clonakilty, but only describing one night in January? Of course you can come any time of year and experience the place in your own way. Theres no better time of year than the annual Clonakilty International Guitar Festival, every September. Perhaps youre already reading this article in Clonakilty. Perhaps youre reading this article somewhere else and youre sick of musicians and artists banging on about how good it is in West Cork. Just the other day I was swimming out at Duneen beach, looking back at the towering green headland toward Inchydoney. Im not from here, Im not Irish, but I feel a sense of pride being here. Thats what I love about Clonakilty, it accepts you ABOVE: Michael McGovern performing in Shanleys Bar, Clonakilty, Co Cork. BELOW: Poppies bloom by Duneen beach, Clonakilty. Photo: Mike Brown from his book, Wild Water, Wild Light BOTTOM: Shanleys Bar, Clonakilty, which Michael McGovern praises for its generations of dedication to live music. for who you are. Your weird eccentricities are embraced, and you never need to walk around with your head hung low. Of course, it helps if you play an instrument... This article isnt going to tell you which beach to go to, or where to get the best coffee and cakes (Pike Deli), come and see it for yourself. Pubs? It has plenty of them. It also has the greatest supermarket in the world. Only the other week did I discover it now has a bowling alley (bring back bowling alleys). Of course, its sunny 365 days a year too, so that helps. Or maybe you can use Clon as a base for the area. There are unbeatable beaches and nature all so close by. I recently went for a magical river swim about an hour west. I lay in the water at the foot of a slow waterfall for hours watching the trees and the sky. It looked like something from the Great Canadian Wilderness. Unfortunately I swore to a local that I wouldnt reveal its location. The Instagram travel vloggers will get to it soon enough Im sure... Youre back in Shanleys Bar and its the end of the night. The crowd spills back out into the cold. The houselights are up, the musicians huddle around a table in the back. Some torn Tayto packets, half-finished pints line up on the empty bar. Instruments lean against the wall and theres a faint buzz of the amps. The spell is slowly lifting. Its just a January night again. Empty streets and closed shop- fronts. The sea somewhere out there in the darkness. You wonder if youll ever feel this free again. If, years from now, youll find yourself longing for this very night, this room, these people. But the locals here dont seem worried about losing it. They know another night like this is waiting around the corner. Well that sums up Clonakilty for me. Sure theres a lot of tourists in summer, but its not a tourist town. The locals keep it alive. You can go all around the world and youll struggle to find their enthusiasm for music and art and culture anywhere. Bob Dylan said, I wanna sleep over there, thats where the musics coming from. Ive been searching for that my whole life, and maybe Ive found it here. Clonakilty takes pride in its musical heritage and refuses to let it disappear. What if Clonakiltys music isnt just entertainment? What if its a kind of local stubbornness? Its not nostalgia or heritage. Its not authentic Irish culture. They just keep on doing it because its what they do best. Im a footnote in its history, but a proud part of its musical lineage nonetheless. Just the other day I was stopped in the street and described as Michael McGovern from Shanleys. Just as the great Scot Michael Marra once said, I didnt want my name in lights, I wanted it in brackets. Michael McGovern has a series of shows in Ireland in September and October. For details, visit www.michaelmcgovern.co.uk STAYCATIONS September 2026 Gods own dining spaces Sensational destinations that put dining experiences at the heart of your Irish staycation Pages 28 and 29 Inchydoney Island Lodge & Spa Unplug, unwind and reconnect with a staycation on West Corks blue-flag shores P erched between two sweeping Blue Flag beaches just outside the colourful town of Clonakilty, Inchydoney Island Lodge & Spa is an Irish seaside resort that offers that unique West Cork welc STAYCATIONS CONTENTS Well-travelled Kiran Mehta on The Land of a thousand welcomes Page 8 The Deerstone in Co Wicklow, an ambient six-acre resort with pet-friendly shepherds huts and deluxe rooms. Irelands best spots to gaze at the skies Pages 12 to 15 Cosy breaks Victoria Square in Belfast, one STAYCATIONS Siren call of Clonakilty Glaswegian singer-songwriter Michael McGovern reflects upon the unique timeless charm of Clonakilty for musicians I ts 10pm on a dark January night. In a post-dinner haze, you decide to take a quick walk around town. A freezing sea mist hangs low across the e STAYCATIONS The highs of Wicklow From hikes short and long to peaks low and high, as well as music festivals and destination cafes, Wicklow is called the Garden County for a reason, writes Eoghan OSullivan F or visitors to Dublin as well as city dwellers themselves Wicklow offers the promise STAYCATIONS The famed Irish welcome Mumbai-based writer Kiran Mehta offers a view on Irelands reputation as the land of a thousand welcomes I was in the Middle East when I first read the words, Céad Míle Fáilte embossed on a tall, white ceramic cup. I am an Indian citizen, but I grew up in Kuwai STAYCATIONS Upwardly mobile Love the great outdoors? Jennifer Sheahan offers a personal selection of memorable Irish camping destinations T here has been a lot of talk this summer about what it costs to holiday at home; €2,000 per week seems to be the going rate for a house near a beach in Kerry STAYCATIONS the best coastal scenery in the country. Im a Galway native by birth and by university, and there are a million things I love about the county, not least of which is the seafood. A local fisherman rowed up onto the campsite beach one evening and sold us fresh fish straight off the boat, STAYCATIONS Skys the limit Look at the stars, see how they shine for you with our guide to Irelands dark skies, writes Domhnall ODonoghue O scar Wilde once mused that everyone was in the gutter, but the lucky among us had our gaze fixed firmly on the stars. And as an Irishman, the witty scribe k STAYCATIONS We have a range of night-time experiences available to book if you would like to join us on one of our night-time adventures, says Roisín Doyle, duty manager at OM Dark Sky Park and Observatory. From the darker nights to the brighter days, our skies are always offering us something spec STAYCATIONS CONTINUED By Day: Rising 600m above the waves, Sliabh Liag is one of Europes highest sea cliffs and served as a Christian pilgrimage site for over 1,000 years. Burren National Park With its limestone terrain, Co Clares Burren National Park is undoubtedly one of Europes most unique r STAYCATIONS LEFT: Aurora Borealis, Derryclare Lough, Connemara, Co Galway. Photo: Failte Ireland ABOVE: A comet soaring across the Kerry International Dark-Sky Reserve. Photo: Michael Sheehan RIGHT: An image of the Rosetta nebula taken by Blackrock Castle Observatory. Photo: Blackrock Castle Observ STAYCATIONS Ten top trends in Irish holidays Sauna raves and chilli festivals are among the hot trends in Irish holidays this year, writes Thom Breathnach A new travel season means new trends, new openings and fresh festivals. So whats literally hot for autumn 2026? From country house escapes, g STAYCATIONS TOP: The annual Macnas Halloween Parade in Galway in October is a hugely popular free open air event. BELOW: Seeking a sweet getaway as part of a very tasty current staycation trend? Scéal Bakery in Dublin. travel for skin care and wellness is on the rise, not only for women but also f STAYCATIONS Wonderful Waterford Waterford is a rural gem that will keep you coming back year after year, as Mimi Murray discovers 18 September 2026 T here are two counties in Ireland that have it all, but dont get the attention of heavy hitters such as Galway or Kerry, Garvan Cummins from The STAYCATIONS MAIN PHOTO, LEFT: Young families love the Dunmore East Adventure centre, with great outdoor amenities and an indoor adventure area including climbing wall, Ninja course, Laser, archery and more. ABOVE: A section of the beautiful 46km Greenway from Waterford city to Dungarvan. LEFT: Come STAYCATIONS The people of Limerick have always refused to conform, a spirit wonderfully reflected in its blossoming cultural scene, writes Domhnall ODonoghue If the herd goes right, then here, we go left. Youd be hard-pressed to find anyone more enthusiastic about Limerick than Stephen Cunneen, o STAYCATIONS ABOVE: Pat Shortt, in a scene from Wreckquiem, by Mike Finn. Photo: Maurice Gunning BELOW: Blindboy in conversation. Photo: Fáilte Ireland and Barry Cronin made, theres a sense of striving in our work that I think makes it stronger. Daly is also a producer at the Limerick Literary Fest STAYCATIONS Spiritual journeys to sacred sites I s this the year that you will try at last one of the legendary pilgrim routes that are dotted across Ireland, a trip you always meant to make, but somehow never got round to? There are so many wonderful and fulfilling pathways to sites of saintly i STAYCATIONS fasting in the cave overnight, in the hope of seeing visions of the Otherworld. Todays pilgrims visit a vastly developed Station Island, with a huge basilica covering most of the original ground, and definitely stay above ground for their purgatorial rituals. Visits to the island are boo STAYCATIONS LEFT: Praying at St Patricks Purgatory on Lough Derg, Donegal, where pilgrims attend fasting, barefoot prayer and allnight vigils. Pic: Paul Faith / AFP RIGHT: A sheep at St Finbarrs Oratory in Gougane Barra, West Cork. Pic: David Creedon CONTINUED Ice Age, runs east to west across t STAYCATIONS neck Pass and along stretches of old pathways for some 96km (56 miles). This, it is said, was the route taken by Declan driving in his chariot to the royal court at Cashel. Although reverence for St Declan certainly cannot be denied, it is likely that this route was already well known fr STAYCATIONS Bookmark this guide to Dublin In the capital city, the stories of literary greats are whispered at every corner, waiting to be heard, writes Kiran Mehta W.B. Yeats, the trump of our hates; His early political views resting on, his love of Maud Gonne, who wouldnt go out on his dates! STAYCATIONS passions a quotation. His words seem truer today than when they were first uttered. With continuous exposure to rage tweets, satirical memes (which trend right before election time), a continuous stream of Instagram stories and posts, how much of what we think is actually our own though STAYCATIONS Gods own dining spots From train carriages to country estates, we take a look at some of the Irish dining spots worthy of a celestial visit. Words by Mimi Murray, Deanna OConnor and Marcus OLaoughaire Ómós First up on Gods food trail is recently opened Ómós in Abbeyleix, a visionary c STAYCATIONS home, rather than a hotel. The welcome is warm, and whether you come for the famed afternoon tea or stay on for dinner, you are guaranteed to feel entranced. On the menu is fine dining paired with a surprisingly reasonably priced wine list. The pan-fried duck breast with cherries and smo STAYCATIONS Buddies on tour Jennifer Sheahan serves up a guide to holidaying in Ireland with a convoy of chums and their families P icture this: its a cold, wet day in January. Youre lying on your couch binging re-runs of Arrested Development and avoiding reality, when your phone buzzes. You pi STAYCATIONS [SPONSORED] GUIDE TO GREAT BREAKS: continues overleaf DRUIDS GLEN HOTEL & GOLF RESORT noon to find my friends four-yearold had strewn the contents of my makeup bag across the ground floor. He enjoyed himself but I have since learned to shut the door. Plan food, but dont overthink STAYCATIONS [SPONSORED] Your guide to a wealth of great breaks, activities and Looking for an inspirational break in Ireland? Here is a guide to some of the best staycations currently on offer YOUR GUIDE TO GREAT ALL-ISLAND STAYCATIONS Fernhill Hotel & Estate offers a peaceful escape in the hear STAYCATIONS [SPONSORED] adventures Sligo Park Hotel Your Sligo starts here Take a break in Sligo Park Hotel, just minutes from Sligo town and the coast and countryside nearby. SLIGO PARK HOTEL each morning, a three-course evening meal each night, tea or coffee with a scone, evening music, a gu STAYCATIONS [SPONSORED] Magical breaks with the very best of food, fun and YOUR GUIDE TO GREAT ALL-ISLANDSTAYCATIONS Iveagh Garden Hotel, a short walk from iconic Dublin attractions like St Stephens Green, Dublin Castle and St Patricks Cathedral. IVEAGH GARDEN HOTEL T h e f o u r - s t a r I ve STAYCATIONS [SPONSORED] entertainment for all Slow the pace, take in the sheer beauty of this unique 500-acre estate MOUNT JULIET ESTATE stunning deluxe bedrooms Wake up and enjoy a full Irish & Continental Breakfast in the morning A Choice of either a 2Course Set Meal in Elles Bistro or Aftern STAYCATIONS Galway, the Venice of the West John Daly finds that Galway delivers plenty of reasons to be cheerful for staycationers looking to recharge their batteries Macnas performing An Treun - The Summoning Of The Lost for the 2025 Halloween parade in Galway city. Photo: Ray Ryan Galway Oyste STAYCATIONS Kylemore Abbey, a beautiful Benedictine monastery and iconic attraction set in 1,000 acres of mountainside in Connemara, Co Galway. memories regardless of the climatic pain endured. One vivid afternoon etched in my memory happened back in 2010 as we made our way down the Maumturks range STAYCATIONS Escape to The Lake Hotel STAYCATIONS STAYCATIONS 40 September 2026