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LEFT: Praying at
St Patricks
Purgatory on
Lough Derg,
Donegal, where
pilgrims attend
fasting, barefoot
prayer and allnight vigils.
Pic: Paul Faith / AFP
RIGHT: A sheep at
St Finbarrs
Oratory in
Gougane Barra,
West Cork.
Pic: David Creedon
CONTINUED >>
Ice Age, runs east to west across the
country, while the Shannon bisects
it north to south. Such a location
would have been recognised as of
considerable importance from earliest times, both in druidical terms
as a focal point of natural power,
and in strategic terms as an ideal
controlling point for both waterborne and land-borne traffic.
The monastery was founded by St
Ciarán in the 6th century and drew
the faithful in increasing numbers
to worship, or seek guidance.
The Clonmacnoise Pilgrim Path
starts at the village of Ballycumber
on the river Brosna and runs 21km
along An tSlíghe Mhór, The Great
Road, which follows the firm raised
ridge of the esker to the Shannon.
There is an old tale about Ballycumber and a landlord who rashly
interfered with a local sacred well.
Angry that local peasants trespassed on what he saw as his private
fields in order to visit this site, he ordered it filled in. Immediately his
own splendid house, set on a height
some distance away, flooded, water
pouring up from the basement and
through the entire building, in defiance of all natural laws. It did not
recede until he admitted defeat and
had the well reopened; but even then
a pond remained ever after in a hollow which could clearly be seen
from his windows. A reminder not
to trifle with the Otherworld.
Some of the pilgrim path today follows minor public roads (though its
still on the Esker Riada), and there is
a superb piece of 12th century craftsmanship to be seen in the church at
Boher, the shrine of St Manchan.
This small box of yew wood, cased in
bronze and richly enamelled and
gilded, dates from the early 12th century and shows distinctly Viking influence in its decorative figures.
Ruined Doon Castle (formerly
called Esker Castle, a reminder of its
location) comes up next, then the
raised Mongan Bog. This is one of
the very few of its kind left in the
country. It is over 9,000 years old
and shelters a wonderful range of
flora and fauna.
Finally the pilgrim way ends on
the banks of the Shannon, amidst the
high crosses, and gentle peace of
Clonmacnoise. Another wonderful
way to come to the abbey would be by
the river from Athlone or Shannonbridge and land on the gently-sloping
grassy banks right below the monastery as so many have done over the
centuries. That is something which
will truly take you back in time.
24
September 2026
St Kevins Way, Wicklow
This 30km trail from Hollywood
winds its way through the hills of
Wicklow, following St Kevins journey to the haunting valley of Glendalough where he spent his life in
prayer and contemplation. After his
death in 618 AD, his quiet retreat developed into an impressive monastic
city. Medieval pilgrims came from
far and wide to visit Kevins tomb,
and, interestingly, the alternative
starting points to the walk reflect
the different directions from which
they are likely to have travelled.
The main route starts in Hollywood, while the alternative route
comes from Valleymount. The paths
meet and join at Ballinagee Bridge.
The walker next climbs towards the
spectacular Wicklow Gap, a classic
example of a wind gap [a gap through
which a stream or river once flowed]
and the highest point on the route.
The flagstones of the old pilgrimage
road are still visible in sections. The
route then follows the descent of the
Glendasan River into the valley of
Glendalough. Most of the monastic
buildings here date from the 11th and
12th centuries, the heyday of the
European pilgrimage, including a
magnificent round tower. The valley
beyond the monastic settlement has
much to offer, including a view of the
inaccessible St Kevins Bed from
which he reputedly hurled a seductive
maiden into the lake below in a determined effort to preserve his chastity.
Rath/Dysert, Co Clare
This is one that really must be
walked, for several exciting reasons.
A rich amount of archaeological
heritage, some charming villages,
proximity to the fabled Burren with
its limestone moonscape and rare
flora certainly; but most of all,
trackways and paths that have been
in use for thousands of years. Not to
mention an enchanted lake with its
own fairy badger, Broc Shee.
The pilgrim trail officially starts
at St Blathmacs medieval church
near Rath, 4km outside Corofin. The
ancient rath or ringfort, now
heavily overgrown, which originally gave the townland its name, can
be found as you turn off the Burren
Way to get to the church.
Its a winding boreen that takes
you to the church, tucked between
enclosing stone walls, and its quite
a shock to suddenly find yourself at
the end of the road on an open height
overlooking a small lake far below.
The ruined church has an evocative
arch remaining that frames the distant view beautifully.
It has more, though. Set into the
wall within the nave is a fragment of a
ABOVE: Praying at St
Patricks Purgatory
on Lough Derg,
Donegal, a holy site
on Station Island
where pilgrims flock
for three days of
fasting, barefoot
prayer and all-night
vigils.
Photo:
Paul Faith / AFP
beautifully carved 12th century stone
window. To one side of that fragment,
on the selfsame piece of original
stone, is carved that most pagan of
symbols, a sheela na gig. To find this
female figure on the outer face of a
church wall is not unusual, but to find
it inside, actually juxtaposed with a
piece of clearly religious carving on
the same surface certainly is.
It reminds one forcibly of those
old illuminated church manuscripts
which occasionally have a totally
secular line drawing in the margin,
perhaps inked in by a tired scribe in
need of relaxation. We still dont
know much about the background
to sheela na gigs, but this particular
example does perhaps suggest defiance by a skilled mason who leaned more towards the older ways
than the newer ones?
Look down from the churchyard
to Rath Lake (Loch Ratha) and see if
you can glimpse the dark head of a
monstrous badger emerging from
his cave, Poul na Broc. First recorded in the 6th century, it was the
Broc Shees practice to seize both
cattle and unwary children, and
carry them back to his lair.
It is claimed that a St MacCreiche
managed to overcome this Otherworld creature and chain him to the
bottom of the lake (much as other
saints are believed to have done with
similar monsters) but evidently the
chains werent too effective against
fairy power as the Broc Shee was to
appear regularly throughout the
succeeding centuries.
The last sighting was in 1931 when
several farmers saw a giant badger
swimming in the lake. Keep quiet,
switch on your inner eye, and you
just might be lucky.
Todays pilgrimage route takes
you past Dysert church and Tobar
Ortha, a sacred well renowned for
curing eye ailments. St Tolas
church brings you back eventually
on a loop to your starting point.
Or you could continue up the
Burren Way to that mysterious stone
landscape with its limestone pavements, dolmens, rare flowers and innumerable legends. The Burren Way
utilises a far older road, the Poll Ban,
which has linked Ennis with the
Burren since the Stone Age. Another
ancient track, the Bealach Arsa, has
also been incorporated into the modern pilgrim path. Listen to the echoes
of the past as you walk these old
ways, and think of those who
travelled them before you.
Cnoc na dTobar, Kerry
Cnoc na dTobar (Hill of the Well), a
few kilometres outside Cahersiveen
in the south west of Kerry, was an
important sacred site in pagan
times. The well at the base of the hill
has long been known for its powerful property of healing eye ailments,
and the festival of Lunasa was celebrated here at the beginning of August, just as it was at Mount Brandon and Croagh Patrick, with
hundreds of people traversing the
ancient path to the summit.
All around this mountain as well
as on its slopes, are standing stones,
inscribed stones, stone rows, megalithic tombs, wells, and, perhaps
most poignant, many of those unofficial little graveyards in which unbaptised children were buried. When a
remorseless church forbade their
resting in sanctified surroundings,
the grieving parents simply returned
to the older beliefs and buried them
in sacred pagan sites like fairy forts.
Perhaps because of the strong belief in the old ways, the local parish
priest built the Stations of the Cross
along this path in the 1880s and it became an official Christian religious
trail with the well becoming dedicated to St Fursey. Today it is one of
the officially recognised pilgrim
paths of Ireland.
Its a good trail to climb, as it is
clearly marked and you have the
added benefit of seeing the amazing
Skellig rocks gradually come into
view as you toil upwards. While you
stand on one ancient pilgrim site,
you can see two others: Skellig Michael and Mount Brandon. This
makes it a powerful region indeed. In
fact the views are spectacular across
all of Dingle Bay and the wide-ranging Kerry mountains which seem to
become bluer and softer as they fade
into the middle distance. Even the
coast of West Cork can be enjoyed
from this birds-eye view on a fine
day. From the N70, about 3km northeast of Cahersiveen, turn off just before Deelis bridge (OS map 83).
St Declans Way,
Waterford/Tipperary
St Declans well at Ardmore on the
Waterford coast has been a popular
place of pilgrimage for centuries. He
is said to have converted the Déise, a
local tribe of Waterford, in the 5th
century, preceding St Patricks arrival here. He set up his monastic site
at Ardmore and the ruined oratory,
sacred well, ogham stones, 12th century cathedral and round tower, are
visited all year round, but especially
in late July when his feast day is celebrated with a pattern or festival.
In recent years a long-distance
trail from Ardmore to Cashel in
neighbouring Tipperary has been
set up, winding over the Knockmealdown Mountains through Bottle-
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STAYCATIONS 40 September 2026