STAYCATIONS LEFT: Praying at St Patricks Purgatory on Lough Derg, Donegal, where pilgrims attend fasting, barefoot prayer and allnight vigils. Pic: Paul Faith / AFP RIGHT: A sheep at St Finbarrs Oratory in Gougane Barra, West Cork. Pic: David Creedon CONTINUED >> Ice Age, runs east to west across the country, while the Shannon bisects it north to south. Such a location would have been recognised as of considerable importance from earliest times, both in druidical terms as a focal point of natural power, and in strategic terms as an ideal controlling point for both waterborne and land-borne traffic. The monastery was founded by St Ciarán in the 6th century and drew the faithful in increasing numbers to worship, or seek guidance. The Clonmacnoise Pilgrim Path starts at the village of Ballycumber on the river Brosna and runs 21km along An tSlíghe Mhór, The Great Road, which follows the firm raised ridge of the esker to the Shannon. There is an old tale about Ballycumber and a landlord who rashly interfered with a local sacred well. Angry that local peasants trespassed on what he saw as his private fields in order to visit this site, he ordered it filled in. Immediately his own splendid house, set on a height some distance away, flooded, water pouring up from the basement and through the entire building, in defiance of all natural laws. It did not recede until he admitted defeat and had the well reopened; but even then a pond remained ever after in a hollow which could clearly be seen from his windows. A reminder not to trifle with the Otherworld. Some of the pilgrim path today follows minor public roads (though its still on the Esker Riada), and there is a superb piece of 12th century craftsmanship to be seen in the church at Boher, the shrine of St Manchan. This small box of yew wood, cased in bronze and richly enamelled and gilded, dates from the early 12th century and shows distinctly Viking influence in its decorative figures. Ruined Doon Castle (formerly called Esker Castle, a reminder of its location) comes up next, then the raised Mongan Bog. This is one of the very few of its kind left in the country. It is over 9,000 years old and shelters a wonderful range of flora and fauna. Finally the pilgrim way ends on the banks of the Shannon, amidst the high crosses, and gentle peace of Clonmacnoise. Another wonderful way to come to the abbey would be by the river from Athlone or Shannonbridge and land on the gently-sloping grassy banks right below the monastery as so many have done over the centuries. That is something which will truly take you back in time. 24 September 2026 St Kevins Way, Wicklow This 30km trail from Hollywood winds its way through the hills of Wicklow, following St Kevins journey to the haunting valley of Glendalough where he spent his life in prayer and contemplation. After his death in 618 AD, his quiet retreat developed into an impressive monastic city. Medieval pilgrims came from far and wide to visit Kevins tomb, and, interestingly, the alternative starting points to the walk reflect the different directions from which they are likely to have travelled. The main route starts in Hollywood, while the alternative route comes from Valleymount. The paths meet and join at Ballinagee Bridge. The walker next climbs towards the spectacular Wicklow Gap, a classic example of a wind gap [a gap through which a stream or river once flowed] and the highest point on the route. The flagstones of the old pilgrimage road are still visible in sections. The route then follows the descent of the Glendasan River into the valley of Glendalough. Most of the monastic buildings here date from the 11th and 12th centuries, the heyday of the European pilgrimage, including a magnificent round tower. The valley beyond the monastic settlement has much to offer, including a view of the inaccessible St Kevins Bed from which he reputedly hurled a seductive maiden into the lake below in a determined effort to preserve his chastity. Rath/Dysert, Co Clare This is one that really must be walked, for several exciting reasons. A rich amount of archaeological heritage, some charming villages, proximity to the fabled Burren with its limestone moonscape and rare flora certainly; but most of all, trackways and paths that have been in use for thousands of years. Not to mention an enchanted lake with its own fairy badger, Broc Shee. The pilgrim trail officially starts at St Blathmacs medieval church near Rath, 4km outside Corofin. The ancient rath or ringfort, now heavily overgrown, which originally gave the townland its name, can be found as you turn off the Burren Way to get to the church. Its a winding boreen that takes you to the church, tucked between enclosing stone walls, and its quite a shock to suddenly find yourself at the end of the road on an open height overlooking a small lake far below. The ruined church has an evocative arch remaining that frames the distant view beautifully. It has more, though. Set into the wall within the nave is a fragment of a ABOVE: Praying at St Patricks Purgatory on Lough Derg, Donegal, a holy site on Station Island where pilgrims flock for three days of fasting, barefoot prayer and all-night vigils. Photo: Paul Faith / AFP beautifully carved 12th century stone window. To one side of that fragment, on the selfsame piece of original stone, is carved that most pagan of symbols, a sheela na gig. To find this female figure on the outer face of a church wall is not unusual, but to find it inside, actually juxtaposed with a piece of clearly religious carving on the same surface certainly is. It reminds one forcibly of those old illuminated church manuscripts which occasionally have a totally secular line drawing in the margin, perhaps inked in by a tired scribe in need of relaxation. We still dont know much about the background to sheela na gigs, but this particular example does perhaps suggest defiance by a skilled mason who leaned more towards the older ways than the newer ones? Look down from the churchyard to Rath Lake (Loch Ratha) and see if you can glimpse the dark head of a monstrous badger emerging from his cave, Poul na Broc. First recorded in the 6th century, it was the Broc Shees practice to seize both cattle and unwary children, and carry them back to his lair. It is claimed that a St MacCreiche managed to overcome this Otherworld creature and chain him to the bottom of the lake (much as other saints are believed to have done with similar monsters) but evidently the chains werent too effective against fairy power as the Broc Shee was to appear regularly throughout the succeeding centuries. The last sighting was in 1931 when several farmers saw a giant badger swimming in the lake. Keep quiet, switch on your inner eye, and you just might be lucky. Todays pilgrimage route takes you past Dysert church and Tobar Ortha, a sacred well renowned for curing eye ailments. St Tolas church brings you back eventually on a loop to your starting point. Or you could continue up the Burren Way to that mysterious stone landscape with its limestone pavements, dolmens, rare flowers and innumerable legends. The Burren Way utilises a far older road, the Poll Ban, which has linked Ennis with the Burren since the Stone Age. Another ancient track, the Bealach Arsa, has also been incorporated into the modern pilgrim path. Listen to the echoes of the past as you walk these old ways, and think of those who travelled them before you. Cnoc na dTobar, Kerry Cnoc na dTobar (Hill of the Well), a few kilometres outside Cahersiveen in the south west of Kerry, was an important sacred site in pagan times. The well at the base of the hill has long been known for its powerful property of healing eye ailments, and the festival of Lunasa was celebrated here at the beginning of August, just as it was at Mount Brandon and Croagh Patrick, with hundreds of people traversing the ancient path to the summit. All around this mountain as well as on its slopes, are standing stones, inscribed stones, stone rows, megalithic tombs, wells, and, perhaps most poignant, many of those unofficial little graveyards in which unbaptised children were buried. When a remorseless church forbade their resting in sanctified surroundings, the grieving parents simply returned to the older beliefs and buried them in sacred pagan sites like fairy forts. Perhaps because of the strong belief in the old ways, the local parish priest built the Stations of the Cross along this path in the 1880s and it became an official Christian religious trail with the well becoming dedicated to St Fursey. Today it is one of the officially recognised pilgrim paths of Ireland. Its a good trail to climb, as it is clearly marked and you have the added benefit of seeing the amazing Skellig rocks gradually come into view as you toil upwards. While you stand on one ancient pilgrim site, you can see two others: Skellig Michael and Mount Brandon. This makes it a powerful region indeed. In fact the views are spectacular across all of Dingle Bay and the wide-ranging Kerry mountains which seem to become bluer and softer as they fade into the middle distance. Even the coast of West Cork can be enjoyed from this birds-eye view on a fine day. From the N70, about 3km northeast of Cahersiveen, turn off just before Deelis bridge (OS map 83). St Declans Way, Waterford/Tipperary St Declans well at Ardmore on the Waterford coast has been a popular place of pilgrimage for centuries. He is said to have converted the Déise, a local tribe of Waterford, in the 5th century, preceding St Patricks arrival here. He set up his monastic site at Ardmore and the ruined oratory, sacred well, ogham stones, 12th century cathedral and round tower, are visited all year round, but especially in late July when his feast day is celebrated with a pattern or festival. In recent years a long-distance trail from Ardmore to Cashel in neighbouring Tipperary has been set up, winding over the Knockmealdown Mountains through Bottle- STAYCATIONS September 2026 Gods own dining spaces Sensational destinations that put dining experiences at the heart of your Irish staycation Pages 28 and 29 Inchydoney Island Lodge & Spa Unplug, unwind and reconnect with a staycation on West Corks blue-flag shores P erched between two sweeping Blue Flag beaches just outside the colourful town of Clonakilty, Inchydoney Island Lodge & Spa is an Irish seaside resort that offers that unique West Cork welc STAYCATIONS CONTENTS Well-travelled Kiran Mehta on The Land of a thousand welcomes Page 8 The Deerstone in Co Wicklow, an ambient six-acre resort with pet-friendly shepherds huts and deluxe rooms. Irelands best spots to gaze at the skies Pages 12 to 15 Cosy breaks Victoria Square in Belfast, one STAYCATIONS Siren call of Clonakilty Glaswegian singer-songwriter Michael McGovern reflects upon the unique timeless charm of Clonakilty for musicians I ts 10pm on a dark January night. In a post-dinner haze, you decide to take a quick walk around town. A freezing sea mist hangs low across the e STAYCATIONS The highs of Wicklow From hikes short and long to peaks low and high, as well as music festivals and destination cafes, Wicklow is called the Garden County for a reason, writes Eoghan OSullivan F or visitors to Dublin as well as city dwellers themselves Wicklow offers the promise STAYCATIONS The famed Irish welcome Mumbai-based writer Kiran Mehta offers a view on Irelands reputation as the land of a thousand welcomes I was in the Middle East when I first read the words, Céad Míle Fáilte embossed on a tall, white ceramic cup. I am an Indian citizen, but I grew up in Kuwai STAYCATIONS Upwardly mobile Love the great outdoors? Jennifer Sheahan offers a personal selection of memorable Irish camping destinations T here has been a lot of talk this summer about what it costs to holiday at home; €2,000 per week seems to be the going rate for a house near a beach in Kerry STAYCATIONS the best coastal scenery in the country. Im a Galway native by birth and by university, and there are a million things I love about the county, not least of which is the seafood. A local fisherman rowed up onto the campsite beach one evening and sold us fresh fish straight off the boat, STAYCATIONS Skys the limit Look at the stars, see how they shine for you with our guide to Irelands dark skies, writes Domhnall ODonoghue O scar Wilde once mused that everyone was in the gutter, but the lucky among us had our gaze fixed firmly on the stars. And as an Irishman, the witty scribe k STAYCATIONS We have a range of night-time experiences available to book if you would like to join us on one of our night-time adventures, says Roisín Doyle, duty manager at OM Dark Sky Park and Observatory. From the darker nights to the brighter days, our skies are always offering us something spec STAYCATIONS CONTINUED By Day: Rising 600m above the waves, Sliabh Liag is one of Europes highest sea cliffs and served as a Christian pilgrimage site for over 1,000 years. Burren National Park With its limestone terrain, Co Clares Burren National Park is undoubtedly one of Europes most unique r STAYCATIONS LEFT: Aurora Borealis, Derryclare Lough, Connemara, Co Galway. Photo: Failte Ireland ABOVE: A comet soaring across the Kerry International Dark-Sky Reserve. Photo: Michael Sheehan RIGHT: An image of the Rosetta nebula taken by Blackrock Castle Observatory. Photo: Blackrock Castle Observ STAYCATIONS Ten top trends in Irish holidays Sauna raves and chilli festivals are among the hot trends in Irish holidays this year, writes Thom Breathnach A new travel season means new trends, new openings and fresh festivals. So whats literally hot for autumn 2026? From country house escapes, g STAYCATIONS TOP: The annual Macnas Halloween Parade in Galway in October is a hugely popular free open air event. BELOW: Seeking a sweet getaway as part of a very tasty current staycation trend? Scéal Bakery in Dublin. travel for skin care and wellness is on the rise, not only for women but also f STAYCATIONS Wonderful Waterford Waterford is a rural gem that will keep you coming back year after year, as Mimi Murray discovers 18 September 2026 T here are two counties in Ireland that have it all, but dont get the attention of heavy hitters such as Galway or Kerry, Garvan Cummins from The STAYCATIONS MAIN PHOTO, LEFT: Young families love the Dunmore East Adventure centre, with great outdoor amenities and an indoor adventure area including climbing wall, Ninja course, Laser, archery and more. ABOVE: A section of the beautiful 46km Greenway from Waterford city to Dungarvan. LEFT: Come STAYCATIONS The people of Limerick have always refused to conform, a spirit wonderfully reflected in its blossoming cultural scene, writes Domhnall ODonoghue If the herd goes right, then here, we go left. Youd be hard-pressed to find anyone more enthusiastic about Limerick than Stephen Cunneen, o STAYCATIONS ABOVE: Pat Shortt, in a scene from Wreckquiem, by Mike Finn. Photo: Maurice Gunning BELOW: Blindboy in conversation. Photo: Fáilte Ireland and Barry Cronin made, theres a sense of striving in our work that I think makes it stronger. Daly is also a producer at the Limerick Literary Fest STAYCATIONS Spiritual journeys to sacred sites I s this the year that you will try at last one of the legendary pilgrim routes that are dotted across Ireland, a trip you always meant to make, but somehow never got round to? There are so many wonderful and fulfilling pathways to sites of saintly i STAYCATIONS fasting in the cave overnight, in the hope of seeing visions of the Otherworld. Todays pilgrims visit a vastly developed Station Island, with a huge basilica covering most of the original ground, and definitely stay above ground for their purgatorial rituals. Visits to the island are boo STAYCATIONS LEFT: Praying at St Patricks Purgatory on Lough Derg, Donegal, where pilgrims attend fasting, barefoot prayer and allnight vigils. Pic: Paul Faith / AFP RIGHT: A sheep at St Finbarrs Oratory in Gougane Barra, West Cork. Pic: David Creedon CONTINUED Ice Age, runs east to west across t STAYCATIONS neck Pass and along stretches of old pathways for some 96km (56 miles). This, it is said, was the route taken by Declan driving in his chariot to the royal court at Cashel. Although reverence for St Declan certainly cannot be denied, it is likely that this route was already well known fr STAYCATIONS Bookmark this guide to Dublin In the capital city, the stories of literary greats are whispered at every corner, waiting to be heard, writes Kiran Mehta W.B. Yeats, the trump of our hates; His early political views resting on, his love of Maud Gonne, who wouldnt go out on his dates! STAYCATIONS passions a quotation. His words seem truer today than when they were first uttered. With continuous exposure to rage tweets, satirical memes (which trend right before election time), a continuous stream of Instagram stories and posts, how much of what we think is actually our own though STAYCATIONS Gods own dining spots From train carriages to country estates, we take a look at some of the Irish dining spots worthy of a celestial visit. Words by Mimi Murray, Deanna OConnor and Marcus OLaoughaire Ómós First up on Gods food trail is recently opened Ómós in Abbeyleix, a visionary c STAYCATIONS home, rather than a hotel. The welcome is warm, and whether you come for the famed afternoon tea or stay on for dinner, you are guaranteed to feel entranced. On the menu is fine dining paired with a surprisingly reasonably priced wine list. The pan-fried duck breast with cherries and smo STAYCATIONS Buddies on tour Jennifer Sheahan serves up a guide to holidaying in Ireland with a convoy of chums and their families P icture this: its a cold, wet day in January. Youre lying on your couch binging re-runs of Arrested Development and avoiding reality, when your phone buzzes. You pi STAYCATIONS [SPONSORED] GUIDE TO GREAT BREAKS: continues overleaf DRUIDS GLEN HOTEL & GOLF RESORT noon to find my friends four-yearold had strewn the contents of my makeup bag across the ground floor. He enjoyed himself but I have since learned to shut the door. Plan food, but dont overthink STAYCATIONS [SPONSORED] Your guide to a wealth of great breaks, activities and Looking for an inspirational break in Ireland? Here is a guide to some of the best staycations currently on offer YOUR GUIDE TO GREAT ALL-ISLAND STAYCATIONS Fernhill Hotel & Estate offers a peaceful escape in the hear STAYCATIONS [SPONSORED] adventures Sligo Park Hotel Your Sligo starts here Take a break in Sligo Park Hotel, just minutes from Sligo town and the coast and countryside nearby. SLIGO PARK HOTEL each morning, a three-course evening meal each night, tea or coffee with a scone, evening music, a gu STAYCATIONS [SPONSORED] Magical breaks with the very best of food, fun and YOUR GUIDE TO GREAT ALL-ISLANDSTAYCATIONS Iveagh Garden Hotel, a short walk from iconic Dublin attractions like St Stephens Green, Dublin Castle and St Patricks Cathedral. IVEAGH GARDEN HOTEL T h e f o u r - s t a r I ve STAYCATIONS [SPONSORED] entertainment for all Slow the pace, take in the sheer beauty of this unique 500-acre estate MOUNT JULIET ESTATE stunning deluxe bedrooms Wake up and enjoy a full Irish & Continental Breakfast in the morning A Choice of either a 2Course Set Meal in Elles Bistro or Aftern STAYCATIONS Galway, the Venice of the West John Daly finds that Galway delivers plenty of reasons to be cheerful for staycationers looking to recharge their batteries Macnas performing An Treun - The Summoning Of The Lost for the 2025 Halloween parade in Galway city. Photo: Ray Ryan Galway Oyste STAYCATIONS Kylemore Abbey, a beautiful Benedictine monastery and iconic attraction set in 1,000 acres of mountainside in Connemara, Co Galway. memories regardless of the climatic pain endured. One vivid afternoon etched in my memory happened back in 2010 as we made our way down the Maumturks range STAYCATIONS Escape to The Lake Hotel STAYCATIONS STAYCATIONS 40 September 2026