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neck Pass and along stretches of old
pathways for some 96km (56 miles).
This, it is said, was the route taken
by Declan driving in his chariot to
the royal court at Cashel. Although
reverence for St Declan certainly
cannot be denied, it is likely that this
route was already well known from
early times, when Cashel was the
seat of the Kings of Munster.
Every king needs his access route
to the sea, for both strategy and
supply, and the lords of Cashel would
have known the speediest and the
most direct way, as well as the most
practical way to take goods in either
direction. Those who set up the new
pilgrim path were at pains to ensure
it incorporated all such ancient
routes as were already known, such
as the Rian Bó Phadraig (the Way of
St Patricks Cow) which itself echoed
an earlier path, the old route of the
Cashel kings from their stronghold
to the ships lying at Ardmore.
You will need a good map and a
good sense of direction to follow this
path all the way from Cashel to Ardmore, and be prepared to stay a few
nights along the way (its even more
convenient to have a willing friend
with a car to follow by main roads and
pick you up each evening). What
makes it enormously worthwhile is
suddenly realising that you are
tramping through a mountain pass
that has been a natural gateway for
thousands of years, or have dropped
down from the hills into a wooded valley and are following a very old track
indeed, beside a rushing stream.
You come to a crossing point, and
there are age-old boulders placed in
the water just where you need to
place your feet. How many
travellers over how many centuries
have crossed that way before you?
How many laden pack-ponies, how
many traders? At times like this the
past feels close enough to touch.
St Finbarrs Way, Cork
TOP: A bright day at
St Finbarrs Oratory
in Gougane Barra,
West Cork.
Pic: David Creedon
ABOVE: An Caiseal,
Glencolumcille,
Co Donegal.
Pic: Caimin OBrien,
National Monuments
Service
In West Cork and South Kerry the
practice of walking pilgrim paths to
Saint Finbarrs hermitage in Gougane Barra has been in place for many
centuries. You can still see one of the
oldest customs on what is now known
as Gougane Sunday at the end of September, when the faithful climb the
hills from old starting points beyond
the mountains.
And there is now a path from Drimoleague, where local tradition
has it St Finbarr arrived at the Top
of the Rock in the sixth century and
admonished the people to return to
Christ, before making his way to
Gougane Barra.
In 2008, the practice of walking
this ancient route was revived
(though its history stretches far
back into the mists of time) and,
today, groups are regularly found
walking the 35km path which has
been opened up to the public with
the goodwill of local landowners.
This is a truly magnificent pilgrim
path which traverses three mountain systems and four valleys,
namely those of the Ilen, Mealagh,
Ouvane and Lee, with spectacular
views over Bantry Bay and stretches
of the West Cork coastline. A rich archaeological landscape is combined
with interesting folklore.
Get talking to local farmers on the
Kerry side of the hills, and find out
where one of the ancient traditional
routes over the mountains on Gougane Sunday starts. It will be hard
work and you had better wear good
footwear, but it will be an unforgettable experience.
And there are more. So many
more. We cant fit them all in here,
but go check out pilgrimpath.ie or do
a bit of your own research to discover
other, less well known routes of the
believers.
Best of all, create your own. Find
two places that matter to you. One
might be a childhood home, the
other a special place on the coast or
in the hills where you spent happy
times. Then walk from one to the
other, remembering the past and
considering the present, while surrounded by the most beautiful and
peaceful places that Ireland can
offer. Thats a true pilgrimage.
September 2026
25
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STAYCATIONS neck Pass and along stretches of old pathways for some 96km (56 miles). This, it is said, was the route taken by Declan driving in his chariot to the royal court at Cashel. Although reverence for St Declan certainly cannot be denied, it is likely that this route was already well known fr
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STAYCATIONS 40 September 2026