STAYCATIONS
The famed Irish welcome
Mumbai-based writer Kiran Mehta
offers a view on Irelands reputation
as the land of a thousand welcomes
I
was in the Middle East when I
first read the words, Céad
Míle Fáilte embossed on a tall,
white ceramic cup. I am an Indian citizen, but I grew up in Kuwait
in the 1980s.
The tiny Middle Eastern country,
that looks like a speck on the world
map, had a large population of Indians and a small Irish community.
It was here, when I was probably
all of five years old, that I first met
Mr Ned Quirk, my fathers colleague and the first Irishman I ever
knew. Older than my parents, and a
close friend of my father, he was
uncle Ned to me.
The details are hazy, but he had
perhaps just returned from a trip to
Ireland and gifted me the souvenir.
It was a tall mug bearing a smiling
leprechaun holding a four-leaf
clover on one side, while Céad Míle
Fáilte in the colours of the rainbow
was imprinted on the other.
I could barely pronounce the words,
but it was this vibrant cup that made
my healthy breakfast of a raw egg
yolk dunked into a cup of warm milk,
somewhat bearable. (In my mothers
defense, back then salmonella wasnt
something people spoke about much).
Even though I didnt have the vocabulary to understand those words,
I felt a genuine warmth around
Uncle Ned. I hold on to those early,
fading memories of interactions with
him his sincere interest in the fairy
stories I was reading; recounting to
me tales of St Patrick; referring to
8
September 2026
the stick figures I was drawing as
art, which was immediately followed by guffaws from my elder
sister and banter between the two.
When I was 10, we moved back to
India and Ned Quirk eventually returned to Ireland. Soon after we
moved to Mumbai, the Quirks visited
us in India, and thereafter postcards
were exchanged with invitations to
visit Ireland. But when I finally made
my way to the Emerald Isle, my
uncle had long since passed away.
And yet I saw that the inimitable
Irish warmth and hospitality he had
introduced me to was everywhere.
I experienced it as soon as I arrived in Dublin. The receptionist, a
woman in her sixties, asked me
what brought me to Ireland. When I
mentioned Im a travel writer, she
said, God bless you, youve come all
this way to write about us! Seeing
my drenched jacket she added, Tell
your readers we have great weather.
They just have to close their eyes.
Within minutes of me reaching
my room, I was sent a complimentary pot of hot tea with biscuits. The
banter came easy, the interaction
which is otherwise formal and clinical, felt warm and lively. Despite
being at a corporate chain hotel, the
receptionist made me feel at home.
Literally. Because India too has a
Sanskrit version of Céad Míle Fáilte;
Atithi Devo Bhava when translated
means the guest is akin to God.
There are many striking similarities in our traditions: In India, food is
ABOVE: Entrance to the
Irish Whiskey Museum on
Grafton Street, Dublin.
The Irish language phrase
Céad Míle Fáilte means
one hundred thousand
welcomes in English.
BELOW: Uncle Ned Quinn.
The Mehtas and the Quirks
enjoying a Christmas
dinner at a restaurant in
Mumbai, India, in 1988.
And a trad session in
Flynns pub, Carrick-onShannon, Co Leitrim.
almost the language of love. Three
words, Khana khaya kya? or Have
you eaten? are a way of saying I care
about you. I see this play out as Im
invited for a comforting home-cooked
meal of traditional Irish stew by an
acquaintance in Dublin. Here too, my
initial refusal for second helpings is
seen as a polite way of saying, Please
ask me again. Similarly, leaving her
home isnt quite as simple; its a tactical retreat, a long goodbye with many
conversations and laughs at the door.
Theres also a shared rhythm in
our cultures. Much like in India,
Irish standard time is fluid when it
comes to social gatherings. I consider it an invitation to slow down,
with slight tardiness serving as a
means to relax and bond with
others, without watching the clock.
In conversations with people even
those I met as business associates
family almost always came up. It was
clear that multi-generational bonds
were strong here, as in India, with
weekends often spent catching up with
extended family members. And I
found myself sharing stories of my
grandmother. In particular, the story
of her recovery from her cataract surgery and her reaction as she saw her
adult grandchildren clearly again was
met with chuckles; her exact words,
You kids are so pretty. I havent seen
your lovely faces in so long.
As I catch an Irish music session, I
find that this lively cultural tradition is built for participation.
Whether its the steady beat of the
bodhran or the rhythmic tapping of
the Irish dance, a traditional music
jam instantly melts the ice.
The rhythm spontaneously pulls
everyone in, and strangers feel like
friends. Im not a foreigner or an outsider. Instead, I become part of the
collective community, pulled into
that circle of musicians and music
lovers. This timeless piece of Irish
heritage truly shows me that in Ireland hospitality is a tradition. Its not
a mere social obligation; its completely unfeigned and truly heartfelt.
It was this innate similarity in
cultures that I recognised in the first
Irishman I came across, a lifetime
ago. Despite the differences in our
accents, the colour of our skin, the
fact that we came from different
continents, I felt the same warmth
around the Quirks that I was accustomed to in my culture.
To experience it in Ireland made
me catch a glimpse of Uncle Ned
again. He would perhaps be happy
to know that I finally learned to pronounce, Céad Míle Fáilte.
STAYCATIONS September 2026 Gods own dining spaces Sensational destinations that put dining experiences at the heart of your Irish staycation Pages 28 and 29
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STAYCATIONS The famed Irish welcome Mumbai-based writer Kiran Mehta offers a view on Irelands reputation as the land of a thousand welcomes I was in the Middle East when I first read the words, Céad Míle Fáilte embossed on a tall, white ceramic cup. I am an Indian citizen, but I grew up in Kuwai
STAYCATIONS Upwardly mobile Love the great outdoors? Jennifer Sheahan offers a personal selection of memorable Irish camping destinations T here has been a lot of talk this summer about what it costs to holiday at home; €2,000 per week seems to be the going rate for a house near a beach in Kerry
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STAYCATIONS Ten top trends in Irish holidays Sauna raves and chilli festivals are among the hot trends in Irish holidays this year, writes Thom Breathnach A new travel season means new trends, new openings and fresh festivals. So whats literally hot for autumn 2026? From country house escapes, g
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STAYCATIONS neck Pass and along stretches of old pathways for some 96km (56 miles). This, it is said, was the route taken by Declan driving in his chariot to the royal court at Cashel. Although reverence for St Declan certainly cannot be denied, it is likely that this route was already well known fr
STAYCATIONS Bookmark this guide to Dublin In the capital city, the stories of literary greats are whispered at every corner, waiting to be heard, writes Kiran Mehta W.B. Yeats, the trump of our hates; His early political views resting on, his love of Maud Gonne, who wouldnt go out on his dates!
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STAYCATIONS Kylemore Abbey, a beautiful Benedictine monastery and iconic attraction set in 1,000 acres of mountainside in Connemara, Co Galway. memories regardless of the climatic pain endured. One vivid afternoon etched in my memory happened back in 2010 as we made our way down the Maumturks range
STAYCATIONS Escape to The Lake Hotel
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STAYCATIONS 40 September 2026